Mazda 6

The kill switch on a 1998 Mazda 626 is typically located near the driver's side under the dashboard, often near the steering column or the fuse box. It may be a small toggle switch or a button. If you're unable to locate it, referring to the owner's manual can provide specific guidance for your vehicle.

The Mazda 3 is primarily built in Japan, specifically at Mazda's Hofu plant in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Additionally, it is also manufactured in Mexico at the Salamanca plant. These locations produce various models and configurations of the Mazda 3 for different markets worldwide.

On a 2004 Mazda 6, cylinder 1 is located at the front of the engine on the passenger side. In a typical inline 4-cylinder engine, cylinder numbering starts from the front and moves towards the back, so cylinder 1 is the first cylinder closest to the timing belt or chain. If it's a V6 engine, cylinder 1 is usually on the right bank when facing the engine from the front.

The thermostat on a Mazda6 is typically located near the engine's water pump, often at the junction where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. To access it, you'll usually need to remove any engine covers and the upper radiator hose. It's advisable to consult the vehicle's service manual for specific details related to the model year, as the exact location can vary.

To change the headlight bulb on a 2002 Mazda MPV, first, open the hood and locate the back of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling it off. Remove the rubber cover (if equipped) and twist the bulb socket counterclockwise to release it. Replace the old bulb with a new one, avoiding touching the glass, then reassemble by reversing the steps.

Common fuel pump problems in a 2003 Mazda 6 include a failing fuel pump that may lead to hard starting, stalling, or loss of power during acceleration. The fuel pump relay can also malfunction, causing inconsistent fuel delivery or complete failure. Additionally, clogged fuel filters can restrict flow, exacerbating these issues. Regular maintenance and timely replacement can help mitigate these problems.

Yes, the Mazda 6 is equipped with a fuel filter, which is typically integrated into the fuel pump assembly located inside the fuel tank. This design helps ensure proper filtration of fuel before it reaches the engine. It's recommended to check the owner's manual for specific maintenance guidelines regarding fuel filter replacement, as it may not require frequent changes.

To replace the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor on a 2003 Mazda 6, first, ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Locate the ECT sensor, which is usually found near the thermostat housing. Remove the electrical connector and unscrew the sensor using a wrench. Install the new sensor, reconnect the electrical connector, and reattach the battery terminal.

The time it takes to install an intake manifold on a Mazda 6 can vary depending on the model year and engine type, but it generally ranges from 2 to 4 hours for an experienced mechanic. This includes removing any necessary components, replacing gaskets, and ensuring proper sealing. For someone with less experience, it may take longer due to the need for careful handling and troubleshooting. Always refer to a repair manual for specific instructions and guidelines.

Ah, spark plugs are like little friends for your Mazda 6, bringing energy and spark to its engine. To find the torque specification for your spark plugs, you can refer to your Mazda 6 owner's manual or contact a local mechanic who can provide you with the precise torque value. Remember, it's all about giving your car the gentle care and attention it needs to keep running smoothly and beautifully.

The 1998 Cadillac Brougham has a fuel capacity of 25 gallons.

To change the alternator on a 2005 Mazda 6, first disconnect the battery to ensure safety. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner, then unbolt the alternator from its mount and disconnect the electrical connectors. Install the new alternator by reversing these steps: connect the electrical connectors, secure the alternator with bolts, and reinstall the serpentine belt. Finally, reconnect the battery and check the system for proper operation.

The 2008 Mazda 6 is equipped with a timing chain rather than a timing belt. Timing chains typically require less frequent maintenance than timing belts, as they are designed to last the lifetime of the engine under normal operating conditions. However, it's still important to maintain proper engine care to ensure the longevity of the timing chain.

No, ash clouds are typically emitted from volcanic eruptions rather than sills. Sills are horizontal intrusions of magma that solidify underground and do not typically result in the release of ash clouds.

Check the fuse panel usually located on the driver side under the dash or in the glovebox. There should be a fuse marked C/lighter or something along those lines.

It is possible it may be under the hood in the Main big fuse box. check these fuses VERY carefully.

This process takes around an hour and a half. I recommend you doing it your self as the dealer quoted me hundreds with time involved. Lexus made these cars so they make it so you bring it in to the shop! You need these tools: screwdriver, socket wrench, and strong hands. You will need to first dissemble the battery to get your hand behind the headlamp and twist the two prongs and pull out. The front engine plastic housing has to be removed and a safety bar. Remember not to touch your new headlamp bulbs or else it will limit there life span. It's simply easy once you have your hand behind and twisting the plastic prong behind the light!

with some patience and small hands you can do it. Removal is always harder then installation as you get familiar with the procedure. If you need help i can do a step by step, i just finished fabricating a new hose for a pcv and reinstalling it. You can not get the molded hose from an auto parts store, i used 2 90 degree elbows and 3 pieces of hose, this makes the hose more durable with less span between connections and less chance of another crack in it.

Remember,

1: unplug negative batter cable.

2: remove throttle body for easier removal of intake manifold, 2 water hoses on throttle body, one sensor plug , 4 bolts. And tube from filter box 2 Phillips screws loosened. vacuum hose on that tube from filter box also. And a sensor to unplug on that tube (maf sensor).

3: disconnect 2 sensors on intake manifold on the top front, disconnect 2 sensors plugs on bottom right side of manifold, there are 2 hoses above the two bottom sensors you need to unplug, tricky part is removing the wire harness from the manifold, very tight space there are two connected to the front of manifold, and 3 on the left side.

4: remove 2 bolts holding dipstick tube to manifold.

5: now everything should be out of the way or movable to get the manifold out. There are 8 bolts holding it on, 4 on the top, one you have to get to under the car, one by the power steering pump(left side lower), one through a hole in the middle of the manifold (the hardest one i think) and one below the area where the throttle body was unbolted. I also removed the retainers on the front of the car holding the radiator and fans in place to be able to move them back to get it out, you may need someone to push the radiator back as you maneuver the manifold out, there is a vacuum hose on the backside of the manifold that goes to the pcv valve, it is very hard to get back on also when u reinstall. Tight space to put it back on. I tilted the right side up to get it clear that pipe going into it then lifted at an angle to get the tabs past the fuel rail and it was out, took me about 3 hours to remove, clean it all up and 1 1/2 hours to reinstall, I'm a little slow but i got it done.

When the manifold is out i used 5 old rags and stuffed them into the holes so a catastrophic accident don't happen. Make sure the areas are clean and no sand or dirt may be there.

I believe that is all of it, if you get stuck you can email me and i will try to get back to you fast if possible.

6 gallons 3qt=

apparently it's in the tank, but if you jostle the tabs under the back seat and lift it up there is a panel. Open the panel, there is a fuel line and cord attached to some other thing. Those can be disconnected and set to the side, (that's another issue to google) from there

you need a special mazda tool to unscrew the circle part or something. I don't know, they make it so you have to buy all these tools to do anything. I put something that I don't think was gas in my gastank. I'm trying to drain the fuel line from the engine area and might need to replace the filter myself.

I hate everything.

I have a 2003 Mazda 6 with approx 80k miles. This noise confounded me for months. On ours, it showed up when pulling into or out of our driveway (forward or reverse, always with the wheels turned hard left).

It is NOT the CV joint in the axle. It is NOT anything rubbing in the fender well. It is NOT the wheel bearings. I finally found it after we had the brakes done.

After having the rotors turned and pads replaced, the noise went away for about a month. I thought we had licked it, but it came back.

Then I found it. There is a thin brass (or maybe copper??) bracket that fits between the brake shoes and the caliper assembly. Supposedly this absorbs vibration and prevents the caliper assembly from wearing out around the brake shoes. It is held in place by small tabs that are supposed to hug both sides of the caliper assembly. Those tabs are very weak and as the brake shoes wear out and move closer to the rotor, the bracket tends to move with them (instead of staying in place on the assembly). So you end up with the thin, brass plate scrubbing against the rotor just like the wear warning tab would (and makes the exact same noise). Since it is such a close clearance, you only hear the noise when the wheel is torqued, but it will get more common as the problem goes on.

The fix is easy. Remove the brake shoes, move the bracket back into it's correct place, and bend the retaining tabs back down. (While I had it apart, I went ahead and trimmed down the brass with a Dremmel so it would have more room to shift without rubbing the rotor.)

It seems that getting new pads does not fix the problem because you don't get a new bracket with the pads. You buy some time because the new pads are thicker, but the noise will come back as the pads wear down.

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I honestly wouldn't know, but mine did the same thing then at about 30,000 miles it stopped and hasn't ever happened again, but use to do it all the time at about 20-28,000 miles wierd huh

You may have a broken cv joint i had the same problem in one of my old cars. behind the brake assembly theres a rubber boot with a rod coming out, if that boot tears and dust gets inside it ruins the ball bearing joint..

First, you want to soak the nut with a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster which you can get at most hardware/automotive stores. Depending on how rusted it is, it may take several applications, letting it penetrate for at least 30 minutes each time. Let it dry well before attempting to remove to avoid stripping the nut. To remove the nut, it would be best to use an impact wrench if you have access to one. This is the best type of tool to break loose a tough nut or bolt. Using hand tools often results in stripping of the nut. However, if you don't have an impact wrench, a regular socket wrench can often work quite well by mimicing the impact motion by applying quick, strong force in short bursts to the nut. Applying continuous force is more likely to strip the nut which you don't want.

Hope this is helpful.

no driver display

yes any front wheel drive 18" wheel with a 225/40r18 tire will work but you must roll the rear fender lip up so no rubbing will happen 19" is an option as well tires size 215/35r19 NEW ANSWER: 20'' wheels is the biggest you can go, with 225/30R20 tires.