Mercury Capri

1-3-4-2

Count the flashes. That is a code. Look it up in the service manual and follow its diagnostic procedure.

I had code 4 on a 93 capri. I went through the diagnostic procedure and the result was everything was OK with the other circuits, it said to replace the diagnostic monitor module, which is a computer that monitors the air bags and flashes the codes. The diagnostic monitor is separate, it should not affect the operation of the air bags, it only attempts to discover faults in the air bags that would prevent their deployment, it does not actually deploy them.

I am loathe to replace the diagnostic monitor (because I'm cheap). I may yet disable the light, if I can. Maybe that was your question, how do you turn off the light without actually fixing anything? The service manual says if the light is not functional, the diagnostic monitor beeps instead. So maybe I need a light that appears to be flashing, but is dark?

There is much redundancy in the air bag system itself. I would hope that most of the faults the diagnostic monitor finds are not critical faults because of the built in redundancy. In other words, the diagnostic monitor might only be telling you that one level of redundancy has failed.

Most likely it is the fuel level sending unit that has gone bad. This would have to be replaced.

Not sure why you would want to do that, but they should be interchangable, you can look for any Mazda b6t engine/trans and they should be a match for this car.. hope this helped

According to one of Fords websites : For the 1.6 liter / 98 cubic inch four cylinder engine in a 1991 Mercury Capri ( the spark plug gap is .044 inch )

5w20 or 5w30 3 and 1/2 qts.

As far as I know thevoltageregulstor is integral to the alternator.

The turn signal fuses are located in the fuse box. The turn signal fuses will be in the second column, third from the top.

'84 Ford Mustang parts

The alternator is located between the engine & the firewall on the passenger side. You must remove the front right tire, cv assembly, for extrication from below. Not a simple job.

The alternator can be removed from the bottom and accessed from the top of the engine compartment. I have done this twice and it is not in Amy manual I learned it from a mechanic. I am not mechanically enclined so please take this for what it is worth. But I have done this twice, several years ago. There are support bars that block the view of the alternator from the top of the engine compartment. These are loosened and can be allowed to swing free by removing the bolt on one side. If memory serves me, there are two of these supports. You must have the car up on ramps to get at the alternator. With access from the top and bottom, the wiring to the alternator can be disconnceted. Loosen the alternator from its bracket. There is a bolt that it swings on and this can be removed. The alternator will fall and can be wedged out from under the engine compartment. Tight, but can be done. New alternator can be dropped from the top and put back into place. I did this several years ago, but was successful on a 1991 Capri. A buddy is helpful, but not necessary. Alocate at least two to three hours to do this.

On Brittany Ferries the journey is six hours by day and eight hours by night

You should always replace them at the same time, but basically you bench bleed your master cylinder. Install it then remove the slave by the two bolts attaching it to the bottom of the trans. Place new slave cylinder in and let the fluid gravity bleed through the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder after mostly fluid comes out pump the clutch a few times and have some one hold the clutch pedal down and open the bleeder 1/2 turn then close it then pump the pedal again and hold the pedal open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn. repeat this until the clutch is firm. on this particular car it is very easy you should only have to bleed it 2 or 3 times if you do it properly. but the slave is a bear to get at and is best gotten to on a lift with the cross-member removed good luck

4 litres.

ok there isn't a fan belt. there is a belt that does the altanator and water pump, and another belt that does ac/power steering. your better off replaceing both at the same time. you have to just loosen the bolts that go to the part and some of them you can only see from under neath the car. then you should be able to take both off and replace them. its a pain in the butt to get the v belt back on. very tight fit

Yes, there is an alternator belt. Yes, there is a power steering belt. However, the alternator belt is commonly referred to as a fan belt. As he said, the v belt (that is, the fan/alternator belt) has a very tight fit. If you loosen the alternator enough, though, it's not too hard to put on.The first thing you do is take off the power steering belt. You have to loosen the belt to do this, though. Once you've taken off the belt, loosen the alternator. Once it is moving freely, the alternator belt will come off relatively easily, especially if you have a screwdriver or a tool designed for that purpose (it has a name, but I remember not what it is). Now put the new alternator belt onto the pulleys made for it (you will probably need the afformentioned tool for this; I have every time, as far as I remember). Tighten the alternator and make SURE that the belt is also tight. If the belt is not tight enough, it will break and you can have a very, very bad problem on your hands. When that is done, put back on the power steering belt, or put on the new one, if you do them both at the same time (as he said, it's a good idea). You will probably need the tool used on the alternator belt to do this. Once you've made sure that the belt is fit properly onto the pulleys, tighten it.Now you're done, or, at least, I hope you are. Good luck!

The fuse box is located under the dash on the drivers side of the car.There is also a fuse box under the hood by the drivers side strut tower.

If you live near a Dollar General or any $1.00 store. Most carry a product called Awsome. There is a general cleaning product and there is a Carpet Cleaner. Either on should do the job for you.

were is my w2s

Please see the same question on the 91 Capri. The procedure is the same.

possible plugged fuel filter under hood, or bad fuel pump (access hatch under back seat)

Drivers side in front of the battery, underthe air flow meter. Has 4 screws holding it down.

YOU TAKE OFF THE AIC AND THE HOSES WHERE THE PCV IS DISSCONNECT THE ALT AND ALL BLTS AND THE LOWER PLASTIC SHIELD AND IT COMES OUT THE TOP JUST BE GENTLE

The ford service manual for the ford capri is available for down load at www.techcapri .com and contains detailed instructions on this. I have just finished Changing front hubs and found removing the axel nuts nearly impossible, but in theory the job is fairly straight forward but a puller was needed to remove the hub. Dismantling the hub to change wheel bearings or brake rotors requires special pullers and presses- might be best left to experts unless you have a very well equipped workshop

Depends on if it is the HO engine or not. In 1982 and newer Ford changed the firing order for the 302 HO but left the base 302 alone. So if you are referring to a 302 in a Mustang/Capri it would use the HO firing order. If not, it would use the older firing order.

Cylinder numbering starts with cylinder 1 at the passenger front cylinder and works back to 4 at the back of the passenger side of the engine. Cylinder 5 is at the front of the drivers side of the engine and again it works back to 8 being the rearmost cylinder on the drivers side.

HO Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Old Firing Order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

the car handles pretty good in the snow i have a 1991 conv. and seems too