1. Thoroughly spray the door switches (on each door) with:
2. Open and close each door several times to work the lube into the mechanism
This is usually sufficient to clean the electrical & plunger mechanism inside the door switch.
If this doesn't work, you could remove the door panel and do the spray treatment from the inside also.
This approach works for most, but the switch may have to come out for repair (see Windstar "Related Question" below), or replacement.Answercar has roller switch to the right of the headlight switch turn until dash lights are on car usually has maybe 1-2minute delay till they turn off or one of your doors is not properly closing AnswerI just bought a 1998 Ford Taurus SE and right away I noticed the Dome light wasn't even coming on. The 2 map lights did work. I asked the previous owner about it, but he had no idea. Today I bought a new bulb and noticed that the light stays on forever, and the door ajar icon stays lit. I read through some of the responded posted for the problem, so I tried the WD-40 idea and it fixed it in 30 seconds. What you need to do is spray light lubricant (WD-40) on the drivers door latch. This is right at the end of the door (where is swings away from the car). You'll see the latch looks like plastic. Give it a few sprays, then open and close the door several times. If it works, the light should go off in about 30 seconds, and the door ajar light will go out. What must be happening is that the door closes, but something is sticking, not allowing the switch in the door to close. Spraying on the lubricant loosens this up, and in my case fixed it right away. Hope this helps. Regards, Doug AnswerSee "Related Questions" below for moreAnswerThe door ajar switch is attached, between the exterior door panel and the interior door trim. The only way to get to the hinge is to remove the iinterior door trim panel and follow the electrical harness to the switch. This is not an easy item to replace unless you remove the entire door latching mechanism. AnswerThe door ajar sensor is located inside the door panel, a pain to get at but Ford knows about the problem and a quick call to the parts department at a dealer can get you the part you need. I did my Mercery in about 2 hours. I do recommend getting some door panel posts if you are at the dealership though, I broke two off getting the panel undone. AnswerThis switch is inside the door itself. you'll need to remove the inner door panel to replace the switch. Sometimes if you spray a good lubricant inside the door through the door handle that may lubricate the switch so it doesn't stick. AnswerThe "door open" sensors are located by the door locking mechanism. Open the door, spray some WD-40 on and into the door latch, work it open and closed with a screwdriver while releasing the latch with the inside door handle. Do this to all the doors and your sensors should be operating normal once again.
When your sensors think your door and/or doors are open, your electric locks will not work properly and your dome light will not go out.
I'm not positive about the 2001, but I had a problem with my '98 always having the door ajar light on. I found an article online that said to spray same lubricant (WD40 or liquid wrench) into the lock mechanism at the end of the door (not where you put the key in, but the latch itself). I tried this with some WD40 and the problem disappeared immediately. Apparently the switch is built into the latch.AnswerWE often find that dirt gets into the door ajar switches. To free them up, we spray penetrating oil directly into each door latch until it is practically running out the bottom of the dor, and then open and close the door repeatedly and rapidly. This may take care of your problem. AnswerCould be one of two things. Check the hinges on all doors for a small plastic bracket that might've slipped off, it could be causing the door to not shut properly.
Second thing to do is get a can of WD-40 and liberally spray each doors' lock mechanism liberally, then close and open each door several times afterwards. One of these tricks should fix the problem.
I had the same problem. found this solution after I had removed a door panel, shorted the switch wiring harness, replaced the relay, and read in my Chilton shop manual that has incomplete schematics, all to no avail. I then sprayed WD-40 into all the locks, opened and closed the doors a few times, and the door ajar light went out. The drivers side door ajar switch is located above the actual lock mechanism on the inside of the door, so I made sure to spray up into each of the locks.
Try the dimmer switch under the steering wheel on the left. Sometimes it clicks on and you don't know it.AnswerDo they go off after a few seconds? You may have a security system in your vehicle. Do they go off when you put the vehicle in gear? If so then it is a security system. AnswerDoor switch if button type not adjusted properly or defective
If located in the latch assembly - try spraying latch liberally with WD-40 open and close door a few times and then spray with a silicone - common problem for Lincoln - may be same situationAnswerYou really need to know which door switch is bad. It could be any of your 4 doors. It doesn't have to be the driver's door. The only way to find out which door, without tearing all the door panels off and disconnecting them all, is to talk to the GEM module with a scan tool and find out which switch is indicating the door is open. There is another step you can take fairly easily that may or may not fix your problem. Sometimes the switches don't actually go bad. They get dirt in them, that causes them to stick. Get some penetrating oil, like WD40. The switches are on the backs of the door latch assemblies inside of the doors. Spray a whole bunch of WD40 up inside the latch itself. I mean drown it until oil starts running out underneath. Then open and close the door rapidly numerous times. Do all the doors, and see if the problem goes away. We fix a lot of them that way.
You have a stuck door ajar switch. You won't be able to tell which one it is, but usually it's the driver's since that one gets the most wear. You may be able to unstick it yourself. Get some penetrating oil, go around to each door, open it, spray penetrating oil directly into the door latch until it just about runs out the bottom of the door. Then rapidly open and close the door several times. that may fix your problem. If not, then you will need a new door latch switch on one of the doors, but without special equipment, yopu will not be able to determine which door it is.
I have had the same issue with my 98 Sable and it appears to be something sticking in the door lock area. I have used a good spray grease (one that comes out as liquid spray, but then turns to grease) to shoot the actual lock mechanism itself. I squirt it in just about every crevice you can see, don't overdue it by any means, a little goes a long way, then work the door by opening closing it 8 to 10 times. You can do this to all of the doors, but mine tends to be the driver door, but I only know that simply because I usually don't have passengers.
There could be other issues of course, but this is a very cheap and easy fix if it works for you as well.
Wow! What a great web site! Tonight my wife came home from work with our 1999 Mercury Sable and when she locked the car with the wireless control the two map lights and the red door ajar light stayed on and the horn honked twice indicating that the car was not "secure". I d/c'ed the battery so it wouldn't go dead and browsed on the internet for a solution to the problem. I immediately found ANSWERS.COM and the above information from the other participants and applied their advice. In less than an hour of work the lights went out and the horn honked only once indicating that the car was in fact now secure. The bottom line is: The WD40 solved the issue when I sprayed it on all four door latch mechanisms and also immediately above them where I could feel the lock solenoid operating when the wireless door lock button was pushed. Thank all of you fine gentlemen AND Anwers.com.
Start with the "Related Question" below - this is an excellent starting point to extensive coverage and information on Taurus/Sable heating & cooling problems and fixes.AnswerI had a similar problem and it turned out my heater core was completely clogged, I recommend flushing it yourself as it will take a few hours of labor but is quite simple. Buy a flush kit and flush it out a few times with water. I used hot water from a water heater in the basement and an air compressor b/c my coolant hadnt been changed in years. AnswerYES THERE IS A HEATER DOOR MOTOR ON TOP OF THE TRANSFER CASE FOR YOUR AC AND HEATER IF YOUR AC WORKS BUT NOT YOUR HEATER IT IS LIKELY THIS IS THE PROBLEM? AnswerThe first, simple step is to check your coolant. If it is low, check the coolant reservoir for leaks. Then add coolant. If that is not the problem, there are other things you can try. The cooling system on these cars are notorious for getting clogged. Flush your radiator and see if that helps. If not, check the two hoses leading through the firewall to the heater core (Under your dash). Run the car with the heater on and see if those hoses get hot. If they do not, the core may be blocked. You can flush the heater core with a water-hose connected to the hoses to the core. Make sure to run water both ways and flush the heater core till the water comes out clean.
If that does not work, check the thermostat. It could be stuck...but more likely it is one of the vacuum hoses or the bender door inside the dash. Check the vacuum hoses first, they are not difficult to replace.Answeryou have an air lock you have to purge the system buy letting it run with the rad cap off it will work itself out be sure to top it up!......rosdale joe AnswerCould also have something to do with the temperature blend door, the motor that drives it, or even a plugged heater core.
Read through the "Related Questions" below for much more information and diagnostics, along with some fixes to the problems.What do you mean by not work?If you are talking about it not putting out heat, then your thermostat is probably stuck open or the heater core is partially clogged. In either case replace the thermostat, and flush the cooling system.
Now if you are talking about the blower motor not working, then it is either a blown fuse, defective blower motor, bad blower motor resistor pack, blower motor switch, or bad wiring.AnswerHeater core may be "air bound" and needs to be bled. Heater control cable may not be working Answeri think your temp controls are stuck, there is a door inside the heater that controls whether you get heat, a/c, or vent air. it is probably stuck in a/c position and wont let heated air in but is clicking because it is trying to open. AnswerCheck your engine cooling system. Now. The heater runs off of the cooling system by using hot coolant from the motor to heat the cab. If your heater has failed it could be that you are low on coolant or your pump has failed. If either is true you can crack your block by driving the car.
Now of course things probably arn't so dire. You may have a vacuum leak in the control system or a stuck air door. However, it could be a major problem that could wreck the car.
Try the simple things first: the thermostat.For example, thermostats are designed to fail open.That means they always circulate coolant for cooling and the temperature of the coolant never reaches the level required to heat the auto interior. The coolant that flows through the heater core, which is a like a mini-rad for the interior, never has coolant hot enough running through it to throw heat, when the fan is on.A new thermostat will close, in time, to allow enough heat build up to give the heater core hot coolant, which gives off heat to the interior, when you turn your heater fan on.
Either the heater core is clogged or the heater temperature control valve is defective.
With engine oil filter change :
The 4 cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 quarts )
The V6 engine takes ( 6.0 quarts )
According to the Owner Guide
Ford makes all the Owners Manuals for their entire lineup, 1996 and newer, available online:
Another source is the Motorcraft website. See "Related Links" below
Edmunds.com has links to online Owners Manuals for other manufacturers.
See "Related Links" below
at the junkyard in another similar vehicleNOTE:The Owners manuals have detailed illustrations and information regarding the two fuse blocks / panels, and the various vehicle systems each fuse connects to.
I found that you can download as a .pdf file the owners manual, the warranty booklet, and the service manual if you go to www.myford.fordvehicles.com. All you have to do is sign up (it's free) but you have to know your vehicles VIN number. There is also a lot of other info you can read there without having to enter your VIN number.
the one possibility that i can think of is that your thermostat is stuck in the closed position not allowing the water to circulate threw the engine
There was no EGR Valve befor 1994 on Ford Explorers.
On the 1995 and later models 5.0l V8 models are equipped with pressure feedback exhaust gas recirculation (PFE) system. It is in the front of the engine to the left of the oil feel tube.
left hand follow tube up from exhaust manifold.
The starter solenoid is on the starter.
It's the smaller cylinder-shaped part of the starter assembly - the other is the starter motor itself.
Unless you're lucky enough to find a local shop that offers the solenoid separately - or repair it for you, the most common repair is a new/rebuilt starter.
See "Related Questions" below for more
Integral to the starter. The starter solenoid is integrated into the body of the starter, and cannot be replaced separately. You will need to replace the entire starter assembly.
there are many solenoids on that car. I am assuming you mean the starter solenoid? If so, it piggybacks on the starter.
Integral to the starter.
The starter solenoid is integrated into the body of the starter, and cannot easily/readily be replaced separately. You will need to replace the entire starter assembly.
The starter solenoid is attached to the starter using a couple of screws. It is the part that the wires connect to. Unhook the wires and remove the two screws that mount it to the starter to remove.
depends on the boat style and weight. for example my dads Lund deep V 19ft fishing boat hit 27mph with his 50 horse
First & cheapest fix is to make sure all the wheels are balanced. Depending on how old your tires are, & where you bought them, balancing may be free. If you still have the problem after balancing, have your wheel alingment checked at a reputable shop. Good Luck
The bulb for a 1995 Villager is a 2040-USA, a specialty, black tip halogen. I suspect the 1997 is the same. donsbulbs.com I haven't figure out where to get them yet. The Mercury villager uses four (4) 2040 bulbs. If you are in Canada you can get them at Canadian Tire stores at a cost of about 8.99 per bulb. If you are in the USA or to order online you can go to a NAPA auto parts store or napaonline.com. The cost there is about $12.99 per bulb. the bulbs last on average 500 hours
Has this engine ever been rebuilt? It may have so much sludge in the oil passages that oil can not circulate. It might be time for a complete overhaul and cleanout. If the engine has been rebuilt recently, you need to check oil output volume and pressure. Unless the oil pump shaft is actually broken, it's very unusual to have no circulation at all.
Your best bet if you can't find it from a google search (and you rarely can) is to pick up a haynes or chiltons manual. The wiring diagrams can usually be found in the back of the books.
I have done six gasket jobs on the 3.8. I did not have to have any of these heads resurfaced,the were just bad gaskets right from the start.
Use your search engine,type in torque specs 3.8, then choose the first one on the list . All ford mustangs 3.8 specs. these are the specs i used on all eight cars and all worked fine. This is basically the same motor but turned to drive rear wheels instead of the front.
6 4 2 8
5 1 3 7
Step 1: Torque from 47-53 Nm (35 to 39 Ft/Lbs)
Step 2: Back off all bolts 360
Step 3: Torque from 27 -33NM (20 to 24 Ft/Lbs)
Step 4: Torque rotate 85-95
Step 5: Torque rotate additional 85-95
See "Related Links" for example of head bolt torque specifications - Autozone's free, online Chiltons Manual
75 to 80 pounds
More information would be helpful. Engine size, and if it looks like it's leaking from one pulley or several? My first thought is that the front seal is leaking around the crankshaft pulley. Other oil leak sources are the timing cover, the valve cover(s), or even a cracked cylinder head, could let oil trickle down and get slung around by the pulleys. What's the highest point of the engine that looks like oil is leaking around? Either way, it should be repaired.
V6 MODELS # Disconnect the negative battery cable # Remove the drivebelt # Disconnect the electrical connectors from the alternator # Remove the mounting bolts and remove the alternator V8 Models # Disconnect the negative battery cable # Remove the engine cover # Position the cruise control cable and throttle bypass hose asside # Remove the drivebelt # Disconnect the electrical connectors from the alternator # Remove the 2 upper stud bolts and the 2 upper alternator mounting bolts # Remove the 2 lower alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator
A Mercury outboard will run well with a plug gap of .035 - .040 in.
== Density of Mercury== The density of Mercury is 13,593 kg/m3 (kilograms per cubic meter). That is equivalent to 113.4 lb/gal [US].(pounds per gallon). Yikes! Compare that to water, which is about 8.34 pounds per gallon.
Low transmission fluid, transmission on it's way out.
After an oil change, 5.25 US quarts. After engine overhaul it's somewhat more but then you wouldn't need to ask.
first thing to do is check the brake shoes. make sure they dont need replaced then check the cable to make sure they are in working order and if all that is good and someone just replaced the brakes shoes make sure they put the long side on the back side of the brakes
WHat model Merc is it? Most are on the starter itself. Look at the starter, if it has a large wire and one or two small wires the sel is on the starter, if the starter has only one large wire and nothing else the sel is somewhere else, follow the large wire and you will find it.
-- Model would be helpful to determine this for sure. But here is the best way to find it on most cars. Find the positive battery terminal (+) on the battery. Follow the thick cable coming off that. It will either go to something bolted to the fenderwell (which should have some smaller wires & one other thick wire attached to it), or all the way down to a smaller cylinder mounted o nthe larger cylinder of the starter.
Either of those is the solenoid. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury often used the fenderwell mounted solenoids on their cars.
Another option for helping find parts is to go to the auto parts store (or their website, and look up the part, then look at what the new one looks like, and try to match that to something under the hood.
The fuse block should be located to the left of the steering column, under the dash. Depending on which Mercury GS you have (sable, topaz, etc.) it should be a relay located in the fuse block.
For a 2 stroke model, a 500 to 650 cca, 12 volt starting battery will be sufficient. The recommended battery for a four stroke model is 1000 cca,
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