Mitsubishi Mirage

Location: the Airfilter should be located next to the battery, there are two metal straps or hooks that need to be released by unstrapping them upward motion. Once released you hold the air filter with both hands until released and pull up, make sure you place the new air filter exactly as the old one was in order to prevent air flow leakage.

No, the engine does not have to be removed, but the transmission does. Cost, depends very much on where you live. Get estimates.

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library. mirageforums.net has a lot of info too - ask a question and the Mirage pros has the answers.

on a 1.8 it is located on the right hand side of the engine . It is the top one plugged into the end. There is only one bolt that holds it in.

Yes.

you take it off and throw it, but you must throw it an exact 57.8 inches otherwise this wont work. then you go pick it up and make sweet sweet love to it. then it is ready for change

the service manual says needs to bechanged the timing belt every 60K miles.

60000-70000 MILES What exactly is your question? When or how to? Your question is incomplete....

1342 on the coil, and looking at the motor lft to rt is 1234

Normally on early systems it should be inside of the the distributor.

contact a dealer ship they should give you a free print out on your exact vehicle, ask them all the questions you can. Remember that they deal with your brand of vehicle all the time and someone should specialize on it. GOOD LUCK!

What is the correct valves calibration on mitshubishi mirage 1996 1.5L

The 2014 Mitsubishi Mirage runs on regular unleaded.

answer

OK IF YOU HAVE 100,000 MILES OR MORE,HERE IS THE TRICK GO TO YOUR DEALER OF YOUR CAR FOR OIL CHANGE THEY DO BUSHING CHECKS,OR BUY A MANUAL OF YOUR CAR ITS ALL IN THERE,I SEE SOME CARS SHOCK ABSORBERS BENT BECAUSE OF THOSE BUSHINGS.A LOT OF THEM NEEDS TO BE CHANGE EVERY SO OFTEN,OR SPEND MORE MONEY AFTER FOR REPAIRS,BEWARE OF SOME OF THEM NEEDS TO BE PRESSED SOME THEY ARE TRICKY,BUY THEM GENUINE BUSHINGS ONLINE SAVES YOU MONEY SOME SAY SOME LOCAL SHOPS DO THOSE PRESSED FOR CHEAP PRICES

THEY ARE FUN TO CHANGE BECAUSE AFTER THAT YOUR CAR WILL BE BUNJY AND RUBBERY,THE THING ABOUT GENUINE PARTS THEY WILL LAST LONGER AND CHEAP ONLINE,SEARCH MORE INFO THE MAIN TRICK DONT UNSCREW OUT THE TIE ROD END OR ELSE IT SHOULD BE ALIGN BY MACHINE.OTHER THAN IF YOU JUST CHECK THEM AND PUT IT BACK WHERE IT BELONG,ONE VERY IMPORTANT ADVICE USE A IMPACT WRENCH WITH EVERY BOLTS THEY WILL COOPERATE BETTER YOU DONT WANT ANY BROKEN BOLTS,THERE IS 12V IMPACT AVAILABLE AT AMAZON FOR 38 $ PLUG IT TO YOUR CAR STARTED,HOPE IT HELPS!

There is none. Use your head, think outside the box. There are otherways to run your 12v+ from the battery to where ever you might be installing your amp.

(hint: Along driver side fender, through electrical wiring rubberized boot down by the door.)

In the Mitsubishi Mirage, 2001, the fuel pump relay is located in the interior of the car. There is a small panel near the gas pedal that is below the radio and covers part of the center bottom of the dash. It has one screw and one push point retainer. This panel becomes part of the center console where the shifter is located. Remove the screw and the push point, pull the bottom left corner of the panel towards the gas pedal and pull down on the panel at the same time. This will allow you to see behind the panel but won't remove it. By placing a small mirror in there, you can see where there are two wiring clips attached to something. This something is the fuel pump and injector relay. They are mounted on a plate that uses on 10mm bolt to hold it in place. Remove the bolt and the plate comes out. If the fuel pump isn't working, check the main fuses in the fuse panel in the engine compartment first. Although none are marked fuel pump, the 100 amp one with a symbol of an engine, if blown, will cause the fuel pump to NOT run.

There are two fuse boxes: 1 in the engine compartment next to the battery, the other under the dashboard next to the driver-side door There are two fuse boxes: 1 in the engine compartment next to the battery, the other under the dashboard next to the driver-side door

no..

disconect batt.1st.u can get 2 it from pass side .follow positive cable to starter disconect sm wire other wire unbolts I used 2 long ext & rachect from driver side under intake then from pass side u can get 2 both bolts use rachet on top & wrench on bottom snake starter from pass side that's it starters out

In order to remove the tie rods from the steering rack you are first going to need to remove the bellows from either side of the rack.

Break the lock nut loose from the tie rod end

Separate the tie rod end from the spindle

Unscrew the tie rod end and the lock nut from the inner tie rod.

Remove the two clamps holding the bellows on the steering rack housing and inner tie rod, then slide the bellows off the rack.

With the bellow removed, you will see the inner tie rod terminates at a ball joint that goes into a large nut receiver. The large nut is threaded into the steering rack.

If you have just the right size adjustable wrench you can often get in there and loosen them (both are normal right hand thread), they are not terribly tight.

If you do not have enough room (no suitably sized adjustable wrench) to get in there, you will need to get a tie rod removal tool. These are often available to rent at auto parts stores, or can be purchased for around $60. You would need something similar to this which slides over the inner tie rod to access the nut with a ratchet.

Read more: Mitsubishi Mirage DE How do I remove te inner tierod - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/5coba-mitsubishi-mirage-de-remove-te-inner-tierod.html#ixzz20mweNj6a

diagrama de timing belt de mirage technica 1.8

They should be in 2 separate places on the car. If you open the drivers side door on the panel it should be there and also on the dash there is a plate on the drivers side dashboard that lists it also

Open your owner's manual and look at the maintenance schedule. It tells you what to do and when.

On top inside the fuel tank.

Does your car have a 1.5 liter or 1.8 liter engine? No matter. On the 1.5, it should have a distributor, (if I remember correctly) but the 1.8 has coil packs on top of the valve cover. 1.5 plugs will be at the front of the car, on the exhaust side, angled up. 1.8 plugs are under the 2 coil packs and wires accessed directly through the top of the valve cover. 1.8 wires should not be loose, (2 of them are part of the coil packs and bolt to the cover) but stuff happens. On either engine, grasp the boot and twist easily, gradually working the wire loose and off of the plug. Cheap wires always tear, so be careful. On the 1.8, 2 of the wires just come out when unbolt the coil packs with a 10 mm socket. Next you will need a good spark plug socket, (5/8 in, I think) a 3/8 ratchet, and perhaps a 10 in extension bar with a 3/8 square drive on the end. Take only the socket attached to the extension and put it on the plug, (1.8- put it in the valve cover hole with the aid of drop light) make sure it is securely on the plug, attach the ratchet, and remove the plug. Look at the electrode on the end (the part that goes inside the cylinder head) and see what color it is, what kind of crusty stuff is on it, or if it is damaged. Check the internet or a silly Haynes manual for determining what story the different plug conditions tell you. One color means lean, one means rich, etc... Loose connection would presumably set a MIL for a detected misfire. To install the new plugs, you first set the correct gap on the plugs. This info is on the nomenclature tag stuck to the inside of the hood on the passenger side. Most plugs (NGK, etc...) come pre-gapped, but always check this for yourself with a cheap gap tool from any auto parts store. Next, with your good plug socket, insert the plug into the socket making sure that the socket holds the plug securely, then work them in to plug hole by hand, taking care not to strip the threads. When you have the plugs tightened by hand as far as you can, you can then tighten them with a ratchet another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, or you can do it the official way: get a torque wrench and tighten them to the manufacturer's specifications. Next, put the wires on (this is so easy) and make sure if you have the distributor-equipped engine that you put the wires on the correct plug corresponding to the correct post on the distributor. 1.8 wires are easy and self-revealing: if you screw up wires on a 1.8, wait... how can you screw up wires on a 1.8 ?!? Anyway, there you go. Start it up and let it roll.