To be clear, this is the cylinder ignition lock we are talking about, not the ignition starter switch. If the tumblers are damaged or 'bad', the key may be able to be removed fromt the ignition lock while the car is running. Also, the key may simply not go into the ignition lock anymore. On most cars the cylinder ignition lock is a separate item and can be replaced for a moderate price. However, this is not something for a novice to work on since this is just one of many interconnected parts. Messing with a ignition system may make your vehicle unable to simply start again.

If you're talking about the Stanza Wagon with the EFI CA20E engine, the thermostat housing is on the left side of the engine as you're looking at it from the front. An easy way to locate it is to follow the main coolant hose from the top left side of the radiator back past the timing belt cover to where it attaches to the engine block. Where it attaches is kind of a curved metal housing with a wire attached, and two bolts. That's the thermostat housing. The wire is the temp sender that goes to the temp guage on your dash. Like I said, I have an 86 Stanza Wagon, but if you have the CA20E engine, it should all be the same. Actually, most engines are set up in pretty much the same way, with the hose from the radiator leading right to thermostat on the engine block. As soon as your engine heats up, the thermpostate opens and allows the coolant to circulate through the block and then back to the radiator. With a little detective work, you should be able to locate the themostat no problem.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Mounted on top and inside the fuel pump.

go to: http://installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

just about 1.20

You need to replace the bulb in your lights. The dim lights and bright lights have different bulbs.

13 gallons

From personal experience with this, I took my Multimeter with me to my local pick-a-part yard, along with some tools. I took a couple of Phillips and Flathead screwdrivers to be exact. For my local yard, I only paid $1.00 for admittion. I walked through all of the foreign cars and looked for a lot of Nissans that were of the same era as my 1992 Nissan Stanza. I found that several cars in there had similar switches of the dashboards. What you need to do is use the screwdrivers to take apart the dashboard, and unplug all of the switches from the wires that hold it into the dashboard. Use the flathead screwdriver (from the back side) and un-"click" the switches from the panel of the dashboard. Some of the switches use light bulbs that screw on from the outside, some other ones you'll have to take apart the entire switch to change the lightbulb with. And one might even just be a LED that can't be changed (to my understanding). I believe the Dimmer switch used the LED that can't be changed, and the Emergency Flasher used the internal bulb that you would have to take the entire switch apart to get access to. The others (cruise control and rear defogger) used the external screw-in bulbs. Set the Multimeter to the Ohm position, and use the "buzzer" option, so that the Multimeter will "buzz" when you probe one side of the lightbulb to the other. It will "buzz" if the bulb is good, and it won't make a sound if the bulb is dead. I've tested many many light bulbs and only had a few good ones in the end, but I was able to make my dashboard light up again. What's very complicated is the Heater and Air Conditioning control, as that's pretty wired in there. However, since you have the panel off for the switches, there are 2 very easy bulbs to change - the ones all the way on the far left for the Air Intake for off or on. Those use the same sort of bulbs as the Emergency Flasher switch uses, but I believe they're a different size. They have little rubber feet on them, and they're rectangular. The switches that use the bulbs that come off from the outside are round and twist in with a flathead screwdriver. If your Dimmer switch is burned out, you'll probably have to get another switch. In my car, my one worked, so I haven't changed mine. My local yard told me to keep the bulbs, as they're too tiny of an item to charge for. However, your local yard might be different. When I was at my local yard, I talked to someone who was walking around, and I told him what I was after. He said that he had the same thing with his wife's car (different manufacturer though), and he said that they charged like $9.00 per bulb to replace at the dealership. I'm not too certain about the Tail lights, as mine worked when I bought the car. When I bought my car, the entire dash was out, except for my Dimmer switch, my gauges, and a part of the radio. All the rest of my buttons were out and my entire heater control was burned out as well. Good luck with that, and I hope I've helped you in some way. Part of my answer might be incorrect, as I can't exactly remember how everything was, but I remember quite a bit of it. I only did this a few weeks ago with my car.

The temperature sensor on a 1987 Nissan Stanza is located on the rear of the radiator. It is about one-third of the way down from the top.

fuel return line.

about 1500

take off front cover from engine,the 2 cam sprockets have a dot on the face of each as does the lower sprocket on the pump.now you will see a yellow link in the chain and 2 black well blacker than all the others,the 2 dots no the cam face's have to fall in the middle of each of the 2 black links and the dot on the lower pump sprocket has to lie in the middle of the yellow link,hope this is of some help.ps there could be a lot of turning the engine ba hand to get these to lign but, they will

timing is 15 degrees before on both std and auto.

Remove the negative cable line from the battery and bleed off fuel pressure, next remove the thermostat housing cover, finally the spring of the thermostat should face the engine, so put in a new thermostat and seal with liquid gasket maker.

The thermostat housing is located below the alternator and directly across from the lower right side of the radiator(not the lower radiator hose side).

The plug should be on the side of the transmission facing the front of the car. It will be just like an oil plug only you will need a suction gun to get the fluid in the hole make sure the fluid is at the right level before driving fill it till it starts coming out the hole then let it settle for 15 20 minutes top off and then check the dip stick. Please be aware that 'transmission fluid' in a manual transmission is actually called 'gear oil', and is a different substance with a different purpose. Transmission fluid in an automatic transmission *is* a lubricant, but also serves a hydraulic role, which means that it is pressurized and used to move various parts in the transmission. The gear oil found in manual transmissions is simply a lubricant intended to extend the life of the moving parts inside a manual transmission. Please, NEVER, NEVER use manual gear oil in an automatic transmission. Automatic Transmission fluid will have words like 'Dexron', 'Mercon', or 'Type F', and is usually a pinkish red color, while Manual Transmission oil will be called 'gear oil' or '90 weight' (maybe not '90' but something thick like that) and be a dark color. If you have a rear- or all-wheel drive vehicle, please note that your differential(s) (the part that transfers driveshaft power to the axle) will have gear oil in it/them, too. The final difference is the duty cycle: automatic transmission fluid should usually be changed more often than gear oil.

ATF has a GL-4 rating and as such is actually suitable for quite a number of manual transmissions, especially in Japanese cars. It is the specified oil for some. Using an oil that is too 'heavy' or 'thick' for the transmission or the temperature will not improve the reliability of the transmission. Instead it will cause damage by preventing the synchromesh from working. Baulky synchromesh, especially when cold, will often be cured by draining 50% of the gear oil and replacing with ATF. ATF has a viscosity similar to an 80W or 75W-90 gear oil and can be used in any manual transmission where a GL-4 oil of this viscosity is approved. But it is NOT a hypoid oil (GL-5), so can't be used in hypoid manual transmissions such as Subaru. Bottom line: check your vehicle owners manual for lubricant specifications and servicing schedule. I'll post the specs for a 1990-1992 Nissan Stanza here shortly...

Yes. My 91 Stanza was running poorly, poor gas milage, the speedometer works sometimes, when i hit a bump it will do the opposite - if it was working and i hit a bump it will stop working until i hit another bump. I resolder each solder at the back of it and problem solved. Better gas milage.

The 1988 nissan stanza has teo pumps one in the tank and one in the engine compartment on the passenger side.

Not sure if your problem is my problem but here goes, The mass air sensor on my car that reads the air intake must have a loose wire (behind electrical tape), when pushing on it i can get the var to run really rough if in the wrong position (disconnected?) If i play around with it, I can get it to run normal, but if in the wrong position it vibrates, runs at about 400 rpm and is really weak, (sounds like its running on less cylinders) to boot, hope this helps you in your problem.

I had this on my 2000. Check the spark plug wires. I installed new ones and it ran like new.

To bleed a clutch on a Nissan Stanza, you need to find the bleed-off valve, usually somewhere near the slave cylinder.