Odometers

For the 400 watt max power motor, the stock fuse on the Oster, two speed, 4094 is 8amp 250v (not sure if it's a slow of fast burn). After recently blowing my fuse, ran down to Radio Shack and got a replacement. Upgraded the connection by buying a fuse holder and soldered the connections. Works perfectly.

there is probably a broken solder joint on the instrument cluster circuit board. if you look at the circuit card itself there will be 2 resistors that look burned. by them there is a solder joint that connects the front and back of the board. check to see what side is not making connection and add solder to it. it takes a couple hours to do, and the solder job doesnt need to be perfect.

An odometer tells you how many miles/kilometers you have traveled

The old/mechanical type of odometers work by a cable that turns a bunch of gears that create an INCREDIBLE gear ratio. When the cable turns, the cable turns the gear train which therefore turn the numbers. Unfortunately, the great disadvantage of such devices are that they can be roll backwards by using a drill and turning the cable backwards, (or forwards so the numbers can roll back to 0), or just simply driving the car backwards. Also, it's not very accurate.

The newer type of odometers, electronic/computer, work by using two magnets, one attached to the spokes of the wheel, one attached to the car itself. Every time the wheel spins once, the magnets make a close contact and an electric charge is made. A computer inside counts how many contacts are made then calculates the total distance depending on how long the spokes are and how many revolutions were spun.

The above is the same for bicycle odometers, except the computer has to be programmed to the length of the spokes.

For an electronic odometer, it's harder to "rollback" the odometer because the ECU (engine control unit) will store the number. Therefore, if someone tries to "rollback" the number, the stored value in the ECU will disagree; this value can be detected in all car-dealership companies.

The above does not state whether you can hack the ECU so the number will change, or changing the ECU itself with a newer one.

References

- Me

- HowStuffWorks

- Wikipedia

The stem "meter" in words like odometer or tetrameter refers to a unit of measurement. In odometer, it measures distance traveled while in tetrameter, it refers to a rhythmic pattern in poetry with four metrical feet per line.

Hold both the left and right sides of the selector (red bar on the bottom) down for approximately 3 seconds. This resets everything, so you'll have to re-enter your tire circumference in millimeters, and the time of day.

The bulb type should be listed in your owner's manual (you did keep it, didn't you?)

Volvos normally use halogen bulbs which must be handled very carefully. Wear clean rubber or cloth gloves since any skin oil that gets on the bulb glass can cause it to shatter when it reaches operating temperature.

Open the hood/bonnet and look in each front corner of the engine compartment. There should be a plastic holder for the bulb, accessible from the rear of the lamp cover. Pull off the power connector and release the metal spring that holds the bulb in place. Carefully remove the old bulb and set it aside somewhere safe so it won't fall and shatter. Take the new bulb (while you're wearing those gloves, of course) and put it into the holder. There should be little detents that align it correctly in the holder. Compress the metal spring and put it into place, then reinstall the power connector.

Aside from the fact that halogen bulbs are very finicky about being handled, the job is actually pretty easy.

Greetings well i have a jeep same model and the same happen to mines , and what i did was carefully pull the top dash board a part then unscrew the the plastic panel and took my hand and placed it back on the little pointer and it was all fine and good then just put the dashboard back together and then your finished

Remove the dash cluster to gain access to the back of the cluster to change the bulbs.

The trip opometer can be reset and doesn't change the odometer. The trip opometer can be reset and doesn't change the odometer. An odometer is a continual counter of distance and a trip odometer measures from point A to B and can be reset.

Benjamin Franklin invented many things. Some of his inventions include the bifocals, lightening rod, and swimming fins. He also invented the odometer and the Franklin stove.

Benjamin Franklin did not invent the odometer, which dates from ancient times.

One of the earliest (chariot) odometers may have been designed by Archimedes (287-212 BC) and was described around 27 BC. Some form likely existed before then as indicated by the recording of ground distances during the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 BC).

Chinese scientists independently created a form of odometer around the same time, notably the "drum carriage" later improved by Zhang Heng (87-136 AD)

Blaise Pascal designed a geared version for carriages in 1645, and a version was adapted to measure postal routes by Benjamin Franklin in 1775.

The modern automobile odometer was designed as a combination speedometer and odometer by brothers Arthur P. Warner and Charles H. Warner in 1903.

The intermittent digital odometer is a common problem in 1999 through 2003 Ford F-series pickups (F150, F250 and F350) and full-size SUVs (Expedition & Explorer) that have digital odometers. There have also been reports of similar symptoms in a few 2005 models.

The intermittent fading or blank odometer problem is generally caused by defective solder joints on a printed circuit board located on the back of the instrument cluster.

Ford dealers routinely replace the entire instrument cluster as the standard repair procedure. The problem with this is that unless the cluster is covered under warranty, the cost of repairs may be as much as $600.

Used clusters are less expensive, but they are prone to the same problem. Used clusters must be programmed to the vehicle mileage and the ignition keys will have to be programmed to the PATS system in the used cluster before the vehicle will start. The cost of programming these will likely be in the hundreds of dollars, making the used cluster a much less desirable option.

The most economical solution is to repair the problem yourself. The only cost is a couple hours of your time. There's good information about repairing the problem yourself on several Ford forums. Also, a complete website dedicated exclusively to Ford intermittent odometer problem can be found at www.odometer-repair.com .

This is an awesome post for how to replace the dash lights; it also shows you how to take the dash cover/cowel off by lifting straight up until the pins come out:

http://www.ionforums.net/viewtopic.php?t=444

Emblems? plastic or pot metal chrome plated?

I called a shop called DaisyWagon on Ravenna in Seattle. Here's what they said. If your overdrive is working after a period of time it's a heat issue; i.e. the overdrive isn't working until something heats up. If the relay was broken, the overdrive would never work. The same thing goes for the solenoid (another "solution" on these sites)- it to is an on and off mechanism that most likely wouldn't be effected by heat. The folks at Daisy wagon most confidently said that what they do is enlarge a passageway near the diaphragm near the solenoid. After years the passageway gets to narrow and fluid won't flow through there until it is thin enough to do so at the right pressure (the speed you need for overdrive) This is why, when the fluid finally expands enough after warming up, it will activate the working solenoid and relay. If anyone has more to add to this I'd be glad to hear it- but after searching for a long time, this seemed to be a reason I could put some weight on. I'm getting the operation done on Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes.

Which LED are you reffering to? There are numerous LED's on the Technics SL1210MK2 turntable:

1) Pitch Control LED (Green) x1

2) 33/45 RPM LED (Red) x2

3) Strobe LED (Red) x4

It's very rare to have these LED's burn out. However, if you are looking to change them, you will need to purchase the exact same rating LED for each component. You can obtain parts for the 1200s by going to 1200s.com - and going to the Technics model that suits your need. A list of all the available parts will be displayed.

If your refering to the pop-up light, also referred to the stylus-light. That is just a simple bulb. If you go to the 1200s.com site and in their search engine type "PL1" - the item will be displayed.

Instructions on repairing or replacing parts on your 1200s can be found here: djproaudio.com/Help

Hope this helps.

- D

There has been a few problems with instrament clusters in the newer vehicles. Take it to the dealer and have them check it for you.

not knowing what car, i suggest looking in owner's manual for "ENGLISH-METRIC switch location and/or procedure. it may also be marked as :

"ENG-MET". /if not lucky finding, i suggest being much more specific with

year, make, model in your question for the guru - folks here, or drive to

your local (like-kind of car) dealership & ask, while out and about in your

daily travels/. They will show you how, free. NOTICE: all of this is assuming

that you have a digital speedo cluster made for U.S., not Canada-only sold.

end-of-answer.

Press the RESET button.

it is speedometer

If the snow tires have a bigger diameter than the others, the odo and the speedo will read a bit low. If the snow tires have a smaller diameter the odo and speedo will read a bit high.

Treat the miles like you are adding money...example 4.15 miles is the same as $4.15. So, when you get up to .99 it rolls over to the next dollar or mile with the remainder after the decimal.

Unfortunately... you may have to either find another from a junkyard, if they will sell it. Or have the dealership replace it. I have had mine buzz for 2 years now, being too lazy to take care of it. Last month I had the spedometer spin like a propeller and take out the gas gage. Today, the odometer stopped working. Takeing off the panels and removing the instrument panel is easy. Getting the Spedometer cable reattached is difficult. Probably have to remove most of the dash just to get my hands in there.. I've had the problem and it's especially when it's cold. I removed the instrument panel and the harness, removing the speedo cable isn't easy but if you remove the cable from underneath first, you'll be able to have enough to get ample cable up from the back, of course the grommet will proably come out from the firewall but that goes in easily especially if you spray it with PAM. After I had the instrument panel off, I lubed the inside of the cable connection on the back of the speedo and put everything back together. I used a lightweight grease that will stand up under use and heat. My speedo is now quiet. You need to be real careful when removing the cable as you can break the plastic end if you're not careful then you ned a new cable. OEM is about $100. but I've also seen aftermarket for about $20. Just have a warm day and if you haven't taken the panel off before, I heartily suggest a book and at the least patience. You can get scraped hands doing this but it's worth it. Take care and good luck. Steve H. If your not in the mood to do all that,,, who would be,,, simply remove the front left speaker, reach your hand down inside, feel the cable, about 6 inches down, round and firm, move it up or down, then drive it and see, I did it like he did, the hard way, and it didnt do anything, a few days later I remembered it was pretty close to the speaker, and decided to try again before it drove me nuts, pulled of the speaker, pushed down hard on the cable until it felt like it caught and stayed put, got in, drove, and a year later it's running fine

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