Odometers

I called a shop called DaisyWagon on Ravenna in Seattle. Here's what they said. If your overdrive is working after a period of time it's a heat issue; i.e. the overdrive isn't working until something heats up. If the relay was broken, the overdrive would never work. The same thing goes for the solenoid (another "solution" on these sites)- it to is an on and off mechanism that most likely wouldn't be effected by heat. The folks at Daisy wagon most confidently said that what they do is enlarge a passageway near the diaphragm near the solenoid. After years the passageway gets to narrow and fluid won't flow through there until it is thin enough to do so at the right pressure (the speed you need for overdrive) This is why, when the fluid finally expands enough after warming up, it will activate the working solenoid and relay. If anyone has more to add to this I'd be glad to hear it- but after searching for a long time, this seemed to be a reason I could put some weight on. I'm getting the operation done on Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes.

Which LED are you reffering to? There are numerous LED's on the Technics SL1210MK2 turntable:

1) Pitch Control LED (Green) x1

2) 33/45 RPM LED (Red) x2

3) Strobe LED (Red) x4

It's very rare to have these LED's burn out. However, if you are looking to change them, you will need to purchase the exact same rating LED for each component. You can obtain parts for the 1200s by going to 1200s.com - and going to the Technics model that suits your need. A list of all the available parts will be displayed.

If your refering to the pop-up light, also referred to the stylus-light. That is just a simple bulb. If you go to the 1200s.com site and in their search engine type "PL1" - the item will be displayed.

Instructions on repairing or replacing parts on your 1200s can be found here: djproaudio.com/Help

Hope this helps.

- D

There has been a few problems with instrament clusters in the newer vehicles. Take it to the dealer and have them check it for you.

not knowing what car, i suggest looking in owner's manual for "ENGLISH-METRIC switch location and/or procedure. it may also be marked as :

"ENG-MET". /if not lucky finding, i suggest being much more specific with

year, make, model in your question for the guru - folks here, or drive to

your local (like-kind of car) dealership & ask, while out and about in your

daily travels/. They will show you how, free. NOTICE: all of this is assuming

that you have a digital speedo cluster made for U.S., not Canada-only sold.

end-of-answer.

Press the RESET button.

it is speedometer

If the snow tires have a bigger diameter than the others, the odo and the speedo will read a bit low. If the snow tires have a smaller diameter the odo and speedo will read a bit high.

Treat the miles like you are adding money...example 4.15 miles is the same as $4.15. So, when you get up to .99 it rolls over to the next dollar or mile with the remainder after the decimal.

Unfortunately... you may have to either find another from a junkyard, if they will sell it. Or have the dealership replace it. I have had mine buzz for 2 years now, being too lazy to take care of it. Last month I had the spedometer spin like a propeller and take out the gas gage. Today, the odometer stopped working. Takeing off the panels and removing the instrument panel is easy. Getting the Spedometer cable reattached is difficult. Probably have to remove most of the dash just to get my hands in there.. I've had the problem and it's especially when it's cold. I removed the instrument panel and the harness, removing the speedo cable isn't easy but if you remove the cable from underneath first, you'll be able to have enough to get ample cable up from the back, of course the grommet will proably come out from the firewall but that goes in easily especially if you spray it with PAM. After I had the instrument panel off, I lubed the inside of the cable connection on the back of the speedo and put everything back together. I used a lightweight grease that will stand up under use and heat. My speedo is now quiet. You need to be real careful when removing the cable as you can break the plastic end if you're not careful then you ned a new cable. OEM is about $100. but I've also seen aftermarket for about $20. Just have a warm day and if you haven't taken the panel off before, I heartily suggest a book and at the least patience. You can get scraped hands doing this but it's worth it. Take care and good luck. Steve H. If your not in the mood to do all that,,, who would be,,, simply remove the front left speaker, reach your hand down inside, feel the cable, about 6 inches down, round and firm, move it up or down, then drive it and see, I did it like he did, the hard way, and it didnt do anything, a few days later I remembered it was pretty close to the speaker, and decided to try again before it drove me nuts, pulled of the speaker, pushed down hard on the cable until it felt like it caught and stayed put, got in, drove, and a year later it's running fine

grdrffa

In owner's manual see instrument cluster, see chart for "check light" which should footnote you to another section in the owner's manual. Here you'll find the procedure.

I have an'05. To reset: have odometer (not trip odometer) display showing; push in the odometer reset knob; while holding it in turn the ignition switch to "ON" position; continue to hold the odometer reset knob for a minimum of 5 seconds. Odometer will show zeros or dashes indicating procedure is done.

The bulb is replaced from the back side of the gauge cluster. Don't know of any place on the internet to refer you for detailed information but the gauge assembly is very easy to get out. Just remove the two screws from the black trim panel around the gauge. Pull the trim panel out--two clips on the bottom corners and the two screws on the top. Remove the 4 screws that hold the gauge assembly in the dash and carefully pull out the assembly. You will need to unplug the 3 plugs from the top of the assembly. Just replace the odometer light bulb located on the bottom directly behind the odometer area.

Source: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Honda-Repair-814/Odometer-light-2000-Accord.htm

Yes they are extrememly accurate as long as you are using the OEM size tires that came on the car from the factory and they have the correct air pressure as recommended by the manufacture. They are also not going to be as accurate with worn out tires as they are with new tires.

ANY TIME a fuse BLOWS REPEATEDLY on replacement, a severe SHORT CIRCUIT in the circuit served by that fuse IS THE CAUSE. There could many causes of THE short circuit. A couple of the more common causes are: 1. A "hot" wire in the circuit has had the insulation cut or chaffed through, allowing the bare metal conductor [wire] to come into contact with a grounded metal part of the body sheet metal. 2. A device [switch, connector, a lamp [bulb] socket], motor or similar, in the circuit has developed an INTERNAL short, usually due to overheating and/or corrosion. Number one usually happens when a hot wire is pinched or crushed between two sheet metal panels, or the wire [conductor] makes a very sharp turn or bend around a sharp grounded metal edge, and tension and/or vibration eventually chaffes through the insulation, allowing the hot conductor to contact the grounded sheet metal or brace which damaged the insulation. Failure number two usually occurs as the result of material and/or manufacturing defect[s]. j3h.

One of the earliest (chariot) odometers may have been designed by Archimedes

(287-212 BC) and was described around 27 BC. Some form likely existed before then as indicated by the recording of distances during the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 BC).

Chinese scientists independently created a form of odometer around the same time, notably the "drum carriage" later improved by Zhang Heng (87-136 AD)

Blaise Pascal designed a geared version for carriages in 1645, and a version was adapted to measure postal routes by Benjamin Franklin in 1775.

The modern automobile odometer was designed as a combination speedometer and odometer by brothers Arthur P. Warner and Charles H. Warner in 1903.

Check out the wiring for the speed sensor located on the trans,. GoodluckJoe

There is no such thing as an "odometer sensor." There is a vehicle speed sensor that is located on the output shaft housing of the transmission. That sends info to the speedometer. From there, the speedometer and the odometer are both operated internally, so if your speedo is working, but the odometer isn't, you have a problem inside the speedo head assembly.

IF YOUR TALKING ABOUT THE OVERHEAD DISPLAY. GET IT TO THE KILOMETER, THEN HOLD THE BOTTONS IN ON EACH SIDE OF THE PANNEL TILL IT BEEPS..
HOPE IT HELPS

maybe only for 1 minute or two If it stays on beyond that try to push the clock button while everything is powered off to see if display goes off

Stepper motor for speedometer has a broken gear in it, causing unpredictable operation. If the odometer is still working, then the speed sensor is OK. Instrument cluster needs repair.

Not sure what year you have? Is it digital, or analog (needles and numbers on plastic rolls) If it is the needle version, you may have a cable the runs up the back of the speedo cluster from the transmission. My 84 cougar had this. (I had disconnected it once, I forgot why) But anyways, it may be broken, or just loose. To tell if it just loose, or fallen off, you should be able to reach up behind from underneath down by the pedals. If I remember right, cuz its been a long time since I had it, there is a black plastic cover, which you can remove to get up there. You will need to lie on your back kinda to reach up. If it has come loose or off, it just threads on like the cable to from your wall to your tv. If its on, it may be broke. The speedo cable is connected to the transmission. It will have another bendable cable inside which spins while you drive, if it does, it could be broke on the inside of the cluster. If that is the case, goto a junk yard and pull one out of another car. If its electronic, and displays a error message, you are hosed. You need to locate another cluster. Junk yard is cheapest bet.

If it is electronic (not Digital) then youi have to replace the Odometer assy inside the instrument cluster. Go to http://www.dashusa.com/ford_trucks.htm and they can send one with your current milage on it for trade. The one for my 1994 cost $225.00 trade-in and that's installing it yourself. Ignore that it says Ford Truck as these folks handle all cars and trucks.

Run1

The odometer showed that the car had driven 24,000 miles since it was built.

He suspected that the car's odometer had been illegally rolled back by the owner.

Yes, as the odometer is placed in a conspicuous place. Also, it is required by many auto dealerships to check how much mileage is in a car, to ensure that it still functions.