No, diseased, live and treated weeds should not go in a compost bin even though yes, dead weeds can. Weeds that suffer from disease or treatment with herbicides or that still support living parts do not belong in the bin since infections may spread, synthetic materials may pollute compostable materials and viable plants may self-propagate. Dead weeds contrastingly will be compostable if previously "fried" atop exposed metal or within dark, sealed plastic bags.

It is a word, because people use it. It is not a word that you would use in formal or business language.

A compost tumbler is a drum mounted on rollers that has an attached crank thus making the turning of the compost easier. This turning mixes air with the composting material and speeds up the composting process. You can make your own or you can buy one from Compos Tumbler or other gardening companies.

everything that came from a plant. avoid adding meat and milk products cos they stink and atract street cats and stray dogs. also avoid dog feces as they may contain diseases. cow and other grass eating animals manure is fine.

Venus Flytraps are native to North and South Carolina, but since we are destroying the forests there, they are endangered. You can barely find them in the wild anymore, but they are mostly fund in the USA.

Compost has all of the nutrients (micro as well as macro) plants need to grow and thrive, and no harmful chemicals. Food grown naturally using compost is so much better in every way than chemically fertilized plants that many people prefer it, even if it does take a little more work.

To learn how you can make your own compost, go to the Related Link.

You can compost anything organic.. the question is how long will it take.. If that's not an issue and you have the space, then go ahead and through it in the pile. Personally, I'd split the wood and run it through a chipper first... that would get you headed in the right direction. Careful though.. palm is very fibrous and tends to clog chippers...

They are not neccessarily better.

It is a fact that chemical fertilisers and pesticides can leave residues and organic produce is probably healthier, but, with organic produce only we could not feed the world.

To be frank, I believe that all insects are beneficial to compost, as most bugs that eat organic matter will help break down the contents of your compost pile. Centipedes, millipedes, sowbugs, earwigs, beetles, and of course, earthworms of all stripes are welcome.

What makes a weed a weed is that a weed is an unplanned plant such as a dandelion. Even a useful plant is a weed if it comes up in the wrong place but most weeds are plants that have no use to humans and interfere in some way with human intentions.

Theoretically, compostable materials include whatever breaks down with death and decay; doesn't attract scavenging wildlife such as coyotes; and isn't considered a weed or known to be diseased or toxic.

Worms find food by chewing their way through the earth and through the decaying material on top of the soil. As they chew, they eat and absorb food items while allowing unusable items, such as dirt, to pass through their systems.

Assistance in decomposition rates and heat control are reasons why straw is used in compost heaps. Straw helps speed up the natural breakdown of carbon- and nitrogen-rich recyclables into dark-colored, fresh-smelling, nutrient-rich organic matter. In addition to breaking down quickly, it also helps temperatures rise to the proper heat thresholds required by aerobic composting.

A compost bin is usually square and come in many sizes, but it should have a panel or door at the bottom to access the the compost that is oldest. Since you fill from the top. It can take 3 months or more for the first compost to start degrading.

Generally speaking, the main difference is in the amount of labor involved. Organic farming typically takes more labor to produce the same kind of crop as in intensive farming, due to the lack of industrially-produced pesticides and fertilizers. While there are organic pesticides and fertilizers, there is not the wide variety and efficacy of products as for intensive farming. So hand labor must be used to counter the effects of pests, and to apply the larger volumes of organic fertilizer.

The two methods are not exclusive. Vegetable farming for instance is a form of intensive farming, regardless if it's organic or conventional farming. Greenhouse farming even more so, as you will grow several crops on the same plot within the year.

Some partisans of organic farming argue that philosophically, green houses are too artificial, requiring extra heating and lighting, to qualify as organic, but organic farming is a business, and if a farmer can beat the competition by having its produce on the market earlier in the season, it helps sustain the farm and organic farming, and it also reduces importations from sunnier countries, say from Spain if you farm in France, which is also a goal of organic farming (local products).

Aloes do best in a warm environment with an ample amount of strong light. They can do well with some direct sunlight part of the day. They do not tolerate freezing temperatures. They can grow quite large in a greenhouse and need only be re-potted when absolutely necessary. Cut the lower leaves for medicinal use as the plant grows from the center outward. Do not over water and you need only fertilize moderately during the warmer months. Good drainage is essential.

Two, through aerobic or anaerobic (without air) decomposition, is the number that generally is given for the different types of compost. The breakdown of carbon- and nitrogen-rich recyclables supplies cultivators, farmers, gardeners, growers and orchardists with dark-colored, fresh-smelling, nutrient-rich compost. Compost additionaly will be grouped by one of two temperature drives -- cold or hot -- and by one of three inputs -- animal manure, vegetable debris and scraps, and vermicompost -- or by one of four uses -- lawns, perennial beds, shrubs and trees, and vegetable gardens.

Autumnal, spring, and summer fertilization schedules is the time to use ericaceous compost. The compost in question references the needs of plants that prefer soils more in the acidic soil pH ranges and that respond disastrously to lime treatments. It responds therefore to the requirements of such Ericaceae plant family members as azaleas, heathers, heaths, magnolias, and rhododendrons.

That is dependant on a few things. The size of your garden, how much the soil has retained nutrients vital to growing a new garden, and what compost you are going to use. Obtain a soil test kit from an agriculture garden center or retailer with a garden section. Test your soil according to directions, after the first tilling. A compost of grass trimmings/food stuff is a bit different than rotted manure. the nutrients vary. With rotted manure you can never add too much and with the other you may never have enough. This is where the size of your garden comes into play. Personally, I add roughly 500 lbs. of rotted manure and hay to a garden which measures 20 ft x 50 ft. The next season may be 200 lbs. What you would want to do is add your compost, no matter how much you have, till it in and then plant your seedlings. One thing to keep in mind is giving the plant a chance to root. Adding compost may not be necessary. Give the garden a 12" base for root growth. Recommendations vary from 9"-12" from seed packaging companies like Burpee. Keep a record of what you do, and how the plants thrive, as each year goes by. In time you will know what your needs are for your garden.

They treat tomatoes the same way humans do: they eat them. But they will often eat just parts, or eat immature fruits, greatly reducing the yield of a tomato garden. Fortunately, they are susceptible to a number of natural and chemical insectides.

those green things most people call leaves and your dumb