Pontiac Grand Prix

Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10+ minutes usually resets the Service Engine Soon" light. Please note that it will reset everything else electrical in your car as well (e.g.- radio and clock). If the light reappears shortly after reconnecting and restarting the vehicle you will need to get the code read and go from there. If nothing noticable most likely an O2 sensor.

You can also pull the the fuse/breaker marked PCM/IGN from the electrical center under the hood. The box is on the passenger side under a marked plastic cover between the edge of the fender and the diagonal strut/support.

The 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 liter engine intake bolt torque specification is 45 pounds. The intake bolts should be torqued in 15 pound intervals.

There is no way to traditionally check the timing on this car. The 3.4 L and the 3.1L or the 3.8 L that Pontiac used in its lineups all had computer controlled timing. If you feel that the timing is off you may have a faulty ECU or Engine Control Unit. Most likely you have a faulty sensor, like a oxygen, mass air flow sensor that has gone bad. or emissions systems could have problems. The EGR or PCV valve could be stuck. All of the above problems could make the car idle rough, have a lack of power, hesitation or stalling at full throttle. but, to sum it up, you cannot check the timing on this car in the traditional way.

Sounds like your blower motors going bad. I've had to replace mine 3 times. You can pull it out and try to lube it up alittle, but that's more than likely only gonna be a temporary fix. These blower motors are JUNK!!!. Your better off picking one up at a boneyard than spending the big bucks at a dealer. My dealer blower motor didn't last any longer than the one i picked up at the boneyard. You'll also feel like a contourtionist when changing it. Not alot of fun.

Good luck..

R1-guy

http://www.internetautoguide.com/car-photos/09-int/2005/pontiac/grand-prix/exterior/trunk.html

== == My husband and I recently replaced all of the speakers in our 1996 Grand Am and it was A PAIN! Just make sure that you really really really want to replace those speakers, because it's a bit of a fight to get it done. You literally have to remove all of the panels from inside the back seat area, but FIRST you have to remove the back seat altogether! Once you get the seat out, the rest starts to form a picture of itself in the mind, because you can see all of the screws (finally) and kind of get a picture of what comes next. As the answer below states, you will have to remove the rear window sill to get at the screws; Just keep in mind that the window 'sill' cover is in NO WAY accessible until the ENTIRE back seat COMES OUT! Good Luck!

* Some speakers have a spring clip holding them and some have screws which means if they are screwed down you can tell by looking inside the trunk you will have to remove the cover in your rear window sill to access the screws. The front speakers require removing the door panels to access them.

134a

1997 and 1998 are likely the same. check crutchfields website for more details. 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Convertible== ; In-dash stereo : 8-11/16" depth; Size code E,S,U ; Front speakers : Dash: 4" : Front Door: 6-3/4" ; Far rear speakers : Rear Seat Side Panels: 6x9"

It should be on the passanger side fire wall, you should be able to see it from under the car. Hope this helps

The PCV valve on a GTP is inside of the supercharger housing.

For detailed pics and instructions see the following web page.

http://macgp.clubgp.com/howto/pcv/pcv.html

.

"G"

It's down by the battery and air filter box.

it starts to close and stops

probley has a speedo problem. ot's a spring on the side of the trany that kicks in the over drive

Not with original equipment. Some replacement parts may have.

Remove the bolts on the front two "dogbones" (engine mounts) and with the vehicle in park, roll the vehicle forward to rotate the engine towards the radiator. Not too far that you cause damage to the delicate radiator fins. This will provide more space behind the motor to access the back three plugs.

Hope this helps.

"G"

Flåklypa Grand Prix was created on 1975-08-28.

It sounds like you either have a problem with your alignment or your front wheels are unbalanced. I also had a similar problem where everything shook because my tires were worn out and out of balance.

The question you ask is pretty involved. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library first to assist you with the project.

Parts needed:

4 x Rotors

1 x front set of brake pads

1 x rear set of break pads

Tools Needed:

Jack, Jack stand, Socket set, breaker bar, and ratchet, Torque wrench (or take car to tire store to get the lugs torqued afterwards), rubber mallet or hammer.

First, you want to remove the wheels. Loosen the lugs and jack it up. Once you have the car jacked up and the wheels removed (which you may need to do one at a time), look behind the caliper (the part which strattle's the rotor), there should be 2 bolts holding the caliper assembly on to the hub. Remove those 2 bolts but do not remove the brake line from the caliper because you will have to bleed the brakes if you do. Just move the caliper out of the way carefully making sure not to damage the brake line or bleeder valve on the caliper (wire works good for this).

Now that everything is out of the way, you can just pull the rotor off. You may have to break it free (from rusting). You can use a rubber mallet or carefully use a hammer if needed. It shouldn't be too stuck.

Now you are ready for new parts. Slide the new rotor on to the studs, and push it into place. You may want to put one of the wheel lugs on to hold the rotor in place while you bolt the caliper back on. Before you go putting everything back together, you are prolly going to want to get new pads too... so just replace the pads before you put the caliper back on... bolt everything back down nice and tight... spin the rotor by the studs with your hand and make sure nothing is scraping. If all looks good, replace your wheels and tires with the 5 bolts, and torque them to spec. It is always a good idea to check the bolts after 1 or 2 days on the wheels to make sure they are still tight.

Assuming your transmission has one, it is possible the 2-3 shift solenoid or wiring associated with it is going bad. The low temps may be affecting the ability of it to fuction correctly.

A transmission professional would have to inspect and test it. It would be best to take it in on a sub-30deg day or leave it overnight at the shop when the next morning will be sub-30deg to ensure they can locate and replicate the problem.

The starter relay is out. Or the ignition module. Or the ignition switch is out. And its the odds in that order. Greatest to least.

Check out the following website with instructions and pics on how to perform this task. http://macgp.clubgp.com/howto/shifter/shifter1.html Hope this helps. "G"

remove as many door panel screws from the inside and peel the door panel back as far as u can and look down and to the left for the moving mechanism and right below that is a small metal piece that you can push up with a long flathead screw driver that will pop the door open.

Remove wheel, remove the two bolts in the calipers, pull up calipers,

remove pads compress caliper piston with a c-clamp, be sure to have the brake fluid cap off the reservoir under the hood. - replace pads and reverse the order.