Pool Heating

It's not simple. Two pools in the same city may be 4-5 degrees different in temperature.

Essentially, I think you have to integrate outside temperature over time, add a correction for average below ground temperature, and add another correction for number of hours of direct sunlight and sun angle.

While the heater manufacturers have all kinds of charts and graphs, as a pool service provider in the desert southwest U.S., I can tell you that you want at LEAST 300,000 BTU's, depending on your local climate. In colder areas where you need to heat the water from a lower starting temperature, I would recommend 400,000 BTU's (about as big as they get for residential pools). The initial expense is slightly higher for the larger units, however, they tend to heat the water with more fuel efficiency as they make the water hotter, faster, thereby requiring the unit to burn fuel for less time.

If the unit is propane or gas, the flame sensor may be bad or not in the flame long enough to "lock" the circuit on. Some units require you to hold the pilot on for 10-15 seconds to heat the sensor enough to "make" the cicuit. If in doubt, call a professional because gas and propane can be VERY dangerous.

Additionally, when was the last time the filter was cleaned?

well i put the cover on mine and it seems to be warming it up pretty quick ,but the sun has been out most of the day and the temp is 80 degrees. so i guess it just depends on some factors... I'm definetly not an expert

The duty of a heat exchanger can be defined in an easy way as

"The amount of heat exchanged from a fluid at a higher temperature to the fluid at lower temperature in unit time by a heat exchanger is called its duty"

summit

Try using the link Jandy.com or Jandy and search from there for manuals for your particular heater model.

K

Try google Jandy.com

Pool Pumps are designed and built to work hard. You may create some additional back pressure by adding solar panels. as long as the pump is sufficient to fill the solar panels with water you should have no harm done by adding solar to your pool

I prefer the Raypak. I have had far less problems with this brand than all others in the last 25 years.

No heat or no blower motor...

it makes a difference on what you look for.

No heat means no hot water making it to the heater core... many fords have a valve that controls hot water flow to the heater core. It could be stuck or the vacuum line that controls it could be broke or off of the valve. Find your heater hoses that run up to the firewall. Smaller hose about the size of a broom handle. When the motor has been running and is warm. See if the heater hoses are hot. If they are not. Then your not getting hot water to the heater core...

Fan not blowing...

could be something in the fan. Or the fan could be bad. Or the controller for the fan could be bad... use a test light and probe the wire going to the fan... "with power on and the switch set to high for the fan." See if you're getting power to the fan. Yes power and now fan then the fan has gone bad. If there is no power trace back. Check fuses. Look for the reason that you're not getting current to the fan. Maybe the blower motor switch is bad.

Want to force the fan to run. Run you a jumper wire to the fan wire from a voltage source. Connect to a source that is only one when the key is on. And every time you star the car you will have the fan running full speed. Better than no heat. Until you can get a chance to figure out what's wrong or find someone that can help you fix it.

By the way. I assume you made sure the cooling system was full? Low water level in radiator can reduce the amount of heat you get out of the heater.

Good luck

400k btu

Well it all depends...usually in Florida the day temps are warm but the nights are cold and thats what makes the water cold. The water temps are usually in the 50s and maybe low 60s at the beaches so it would probably range from 55-65 degrees in a unheated pool. March may get alittle warmer but still could be in the 60s in the unheated pool which is cold for me

The best bet would be to contact the manufacturer of your heater and request a referreal from their service dept. Here is a list of many of the major manufacturers:

http://www.poolpartsonline.com/t-mfgcontact.aspx

The short answer is: "you don't". However, I always anticipate the "junk" and stand by with a screen and pole to skim the junk off the surface as quickly as possible without letting it settle. I take the edge of the solar cover and throw it back on top of itself - do this all of the way around the pool. Continue folding the cover back onto itself - working your way around the pool or spinning the cover on the surface of the water while you stay in one place - until it is small enough to haul out of the water. This holds in the dirt/leaves/etc as you remove the cover from the water. Once out of the pool, unfold the cover on a flat surface and spray clean with a hose. Hope this helps ... We use a leaf blower to remove all of the junk from the cover before trying to remove it. We also use a sub-pump when we open our pool to remove all of the water that has accumulated on top of the cover.

Ordinarily the design temperature for the air in the pool room would be 2 degree F higher than that of the pool water. The usual design temperature for the watre in indoor pools is 84 deg F However if the water temperature is higher then the room air would usually be left at around 86 deg F and the dehumidification equipment would be sized accordingly - using these figures. This will result in a higher rate of evaporation, which will automatically be taken care of by the dehumifier - this is assuming that it has been sized and designed properly. Peter Fenton. Consultant. Indoor-Pool-Design.com

The swimming pool temp should be 26 - 27 degree cent

about 40

It sounds like the spark module is working but maybe corrosion is preventing gas from getting to the spark. How long has it been since burners pulled and inspected? If u can understand how a gas grill doesn't lite when its been too long between cleanings its the same basic thing.

Technically it won't heat the pool (and in some cases slows the heating process), but it helps to prevent it from cooling as quickly. Below is the best link that I was able to find that explains all aspects of allowing your pool to heat naturally and "trapping" the heat in. There are way too many variables to answer the question with an actual number, but you should be able to get a pretty good idea here.

no you need a stronger heater specifically designed for a swimming pool

That really depends on the pool size. The store selling the product will know the formula.\k

A heat pump is a heating system that applies the principle of refrigeraation to heating homes. These principles are: 1. when a gas is quickly compressed, it's temperature rises; 2. when a gas is allowed to expand suddenly it's temperature fallls; 3. when a liquid evaporates, it absorbs heat; and 4. when a gas condenses it releases heat.

I am no heat pump expert, but whatever you do, DO NOT buy a suretemp pool heating pump, as they stop working under 65 degrees. Their web site and literature state 45 degrees, but that is not the truth. I have called them about my new pool heater and they say there is nothing they can do.