Saab

Saab belonged to GM during this model year...so yes, GM made those cars. They made them in the Saab factory in Sweden.

It's inside the gas tank.

You need to either drop the tank from the car and remove it, or remove the back seat and cut an access panel to get to the region of the tank where the fuel pump is located. You also can replace the "guts" of the fuel pump for about $100 rather than pay $459 for a new OEM pump. There's some more information on how to do all 3 of these methods at SAABCENTRAL. Google that word with "fuel pump replacement".

If it's a 4 cylinder, there is a plate across the top of the engine, held in place with 4 bolts, and with a wiring plug attached to it's side. This acts as a combination "distributer" and "spark plug" wiring. Remove the 4 bolts, and the plate will lift right off. It may resist a little bit, because attached to the bottom of it are the 4 "boots" that push on to the spark plugs. Once you take it off, the spark plugs are right there. Be sure to blow any dirt or crud away from them before removing them, so junk does not fall inside the cylinders when you have the spark plugs out.

Did your battery go dead? If it did the radio needs the code to be input at the 1-6 preset buttons. You will only get three chances. After that you will need to leave the ignition in the on position for one hour to reset it.

2000 Saab 9-3 headlight bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb lamp replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

Spyker Cars.

I will let you know next month after I've done it ...or failed doing it. ..it will be a SAAB 9 3 into a SAAB 9 5 both turbos

I've had this before and it turned out to be the oil cooler had a very small hole in it, and needed to be replaced. Roughly $1200 about two years ago. In my case, on top of the fluid in the reservoir having a chocolate color to it, it had started to leak out of the cap of the radiator reservoir. This is due to the added pressure of the oil system. If you don't see this at all, then it could be a blown head gasket as well as a few other things. I have a 2000 Saab, and have been told this is a common problem though, so the oil cooler is my best guess. Kind of a complicated repair, it is internal to the engine (on my model)

Very simple buddy, You CAN NOT use the regular method of just pushing the piston back in the caliper. DO NOT TRY you will break your tool!. You must apply the caliper spreader but do not over do the pressure you apply. then take a 14mm wrench or socket and remove the bolt in the back. There is something inside that takes an Allen key to turn. find one that fits and loosen that while tightening the brake spreader, and there you go it should move back into the caliper and if it does not then your caliper needs to be replaced because it is froze.

6x9 in the back 3.5 inch in the front

It might be a warning chime advising you to check your brake fluid level. It happened to be the case for my 2001 9-3 SE.

No. That's nonsense. Never pay more for something than it's worth. * There once was a king who would have given his kingdom for a horse. Anything, including a car, is worth exactly what the next person is willing to pay for it. Bluebook values are established by averaging actual prices paid. Some will be higher than average, others lower. There may be something about the vehicle that makes it more valuable to you than what the bluebook says. Perhaps it's a color that you like better than other folks. Perhaps it's the fact that there is a shortage of supply of vehicles -- or that particular vehicle -- in your area, which explains the higher-than-average price in your search location. If there is no vehicle of better value out there, then you are not overpaying, even if you are paying more than the bluebook says.

There is a small hole in the side of the key head. Insert a paperclip into the hole, and pry the back off.

Saab has been bought from GM buy Spyker cars. New products include the new 9-5, 9-5 Wagon (2011), 9-4X (2011) and the 9-3 replacement (2012) that will be the first independently designed car in over 20 years and insiders are calling the best Saab ever.

Place a flat head screw driver in the front of the lens cover (towards front of car) and push the lens cover towards the rear. It should come off of the bumber but stil be attached by wires. From there, you'll be able to pull it far enough away from the vehicle and then twist the bulb assembly (can't remember if it's right or left). You will now see the bulb and can just pull it straight out. Brad

behind passenger arch liner on the end on the gear box Allen head grub screws

Some have a timing chain, some have a timing belt. It depends on the engine and year.

Probably a stretched clutch cable, that is preventing you from fully disengaging the clutch as you push the pedal all the way down. The way this manifested itself in my '95 900S Turbo was initially grinding when shifting into reverse...as the cable stretched more that also began to grind when shifting into 1st. It got so bad I had to turn the engine off, shift into reverse, and then start it up again to back up. And of course if you can't shift into reverse you can't take the key out of the ignition.

So what to do? The clutch cable had NO provisions to adjust its length...a serious design flaw in my opinion. I think someone may offer an aftermarket adjustable cable...some web searches may find it for you. I worked around the problem for 9 months by shimming the cable: I cut a slit in a fender washer and bent the washer into a curve. Then in the engine compartment I found where the clutch lever came out of the transmission, and put the washer IN FRONT OF the arm and behind "the ball" that is the end of the cable. That in effect shortened the cable length by the thickness of the washer and all was well again.

That is, all was well again until 9 months later when in the course of a day the cable suddenly started to stretch all over again and then snapped...leaving me to be towed.

Later years (I think with the 9-3) converted to a hydraulic clutch which eliminated the condition.

One last note: There was an engineering notice...when a dealer puts in a new clutch cable, they now put TWO (rather than just one) washer to shim the cable, but IIRC that's on the other end of the cable, not by the arm. For the rest of the time I had the car I carried a cut fender washer bent into the appropriate curve in my glove box, just in case I started to have the trouble anew.

Good luck,

Paul

the code stands for a "Large Evap Leak" check your gas cap seal and change out the gas cap if the seal is bad, do not purchase aftermarket gas caps for Saabs.

Try the following website: www.programyourremote.com I have used this website for many a remote programming. It is free, costs NOTHING!!!

Well, MAYBE the same way I would read my 1995 Saab 900SE oil: by removing the large diameter oil fill cap on the top of the engine. The oil dipstick was built onto it...so remove the cap and stick, wipe it with a rag, then fully put it back in. Withdraw it again and see how high on the stick you can see oil. There are 2 marks, or holes on the stick. The higher one is the ideal oil level. The lower one is about a quart low. But I do not know if your car had essentially the same 4 cylinder engine. But once you locate the dipstick, the process is the same.

Of course this should be done with the car parked on level ground and with the engine off. And you want to let oil drain into the crankcase for a minute or two. I found that when I'm filling my tank, once I have the gas tank refilled any oil that would drain down in the engine and raise the level on the dipstick would have done so. I would check my oil level maybe once a month, after initial every gas tank refill checks showed the level was not steadily dropping.

I have read that oil consumption of almost a quart a thousand miles is within tolerences...but I have NEVER seen consumption anything like that except with older extremely high mileage engines over 150k miles and worn rings...and those engines would not be passing CA smog tests long before. OR, if the engine had an actual oil leak. Most of my vehicles were apt to develop a leak when they got real high mileage at the rear main seal...where the crankshaft extends from the engine into the flywheel. Such repairs can be pricey...and quarts of oil are relatively cheap...draw your own conclusions.

BUut do NOT let your engine ever run out of oil, unless you want to rename it "your old original" engine.

Hope that helps.

Get a hot key that looks like a wire, insert into ignition and turn

There is a Saab dealer in Duluth. They will have a large variety of parts for sale as well as access to the ones they don't have in stock. You can call them at (218) 722-2246.

Call a locksmith.