Suzuki Samurai

Stiffness can be from the cable being corroded or jammed full of mud. If the cable is not at fault then lubricate the clutch peddle axle.

Spring side would go down. dome or point would face up.

You will need to replace the output shaft seal where the axle spline goes into the transmission. Easy to do and it is a very simple fix. This should fix the seal and stop any leaking.

If you are looking at the fuel pump from the top with the two parallel lines pointing away from you and the 3rd line facing left, the right of the two parallel is the inlet the left one of the two parallel is the return.

The 3rd hose facing left is the outlet hose.

return | | inlet

outlet _______

I have 13.5 inch wide tires with Toyota axles under my truck. When I was running stock running gear i ran 31x10.5 wide but I've seen people run 33x12.5 but I don't recommend it, unless you like repairing differentials.

the shifter sheet needs replaced this can be done without removing the transfer case

The most common solution to this problem is replacing the shifter sheet ring in your transfer case of the 80-90 samurai. This is a pretty easy process and can be done with a screw driver and pliers. To buy a shifter sheet ring go to http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.373/.f or you can look one up on google.

Download the FREE Suzuki Samurai Shop Manual from http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

or visit zukikrawlers.com

zn

None of my 4 Samurai's had differential covers, they had solid metal with no way to remove it on the sides away from the driveshafts, i.e., the rear of the back differential or front of the front differentials were not removable. I wonder why you want to, the only time I did was to change gearing or axle bearings. But here goes.

To disassemble the rear differential, as far as I remember since it's been about 10 years since I last did this:

Jack up the rear, put the axle on jackstands. Remove both rear wheels, and remove the brake drums. That should give you access to the 4 bolts through a metal flange that hold the internal axel to the axle housing. You may need to remove the brake springs and rear brake cylinders to get there. Unbolt/remove the flange bolts. The you should be able to slightly pull the internal axels 3 or 4 inches, so they disengage form the internal differential gearing. Trouble pulling out the axles? Use a wheel puller, or bolt a tire back on and hit on the inside of the wheel with a mallet, that's how I got the axles out. BTW, if you are going through all this and have a lot of miles on the Samurai, consider this as a good time to replace the rear axle bearings and seals. (My originals gave out at about 150,000 miles.) And oif course the brake lines will need to come off the wheels to give you slack you need.

Once the internal axels have been moved out, remove the rear driveshaft from the differential flange. Then you can remove all the bolts holding the differential 3rd member to the differential housing, and then you can just pull the 3rd member out of the differential housing. Oh yeah, at some point drain the differential fluid or you'll have a real mess. And the 3rd member is a lot of heavy metal parts. Unlike most things on the Samurai, it's HEAVY.

If you are thinking of changing diff gearing: Diff 3rd members from Geo Trackers with manual transmissions are lower gearing than the Samurai ratios. 3rd members from Geo Trackers with automatic transmissions have even lower gearing. But a Tracker rear 3rd member will not fit into a Samurai diff housing, cuz the tracker 3rd member has a ring gear on it for the speedometer, so is too large. The front 3rd members from a Tracker will bolt into either the front or rear of a Samurai, but are not as strong as they do not have the same internal cross member setup. And if buying 2 Tracker front 3rd members, be sure both donor cars were either both manual trans, or both automatics, so your gearing will match front and rear.

When I was extensively modifying my 86 Samurai, I changed transfer case gearing to have a 4:1 low range, and the high range was 80% of stock ratios. I used a tracker manual trans 3rd member in my front...and had a shop marry the rear Tracker diff housing with my Samurai axel ears...and install a rear EZ-locker at the same time. The end result, I could run 31 inch tires with no trouble at highway speeds (although speedometer was no longer accurate) and off road as well. My overall gear ratio when in low range 1st gear was around 78:1...that is, my engine revolved 78 times for one revolution of my wheels. I idled at 1mph, and redlined about 5 mph, when in low-low. Plus the locker, that car could go everywhere I pointed it that I dared try, including the obsticle courses at the 4wheel park in Hollister CA.

Valve Lash for a 1300 engine is:

Cold Engine:

Intake Valve: .013 - .017mm or .005 - .007 in

Exhaust Valve: .016 - .020mm or .006 - .008 in

Hot Engine:

Intake Valve: .022 - .027mm or .009 - .011 in

Exhaust Valve: .026 - .030mm or .010 - .012 in

at the wrecking yard

If your symptoms are it will idle, but can't rev up over about 2000 RPM with virtually no power, then odds are you have a defective catalytic converter. The core inside the coverter can break loose, and get lodged against the converter's output pipe.

When this happened to me (kind of like blocking a tailpipe with a potatoe) pressure built up so much inside the engine that it would blow off my PCV hoses!

How to tell if this is it:

1. Rap on the converter with a mallet. If the core inside is loose you will hear it rattling around.

2. Loosen the bolts that join the exhaust manifold to the downtube that leads to the converter. These are the bolts that are spring loaded to allow flex as the engine shifts when it revs. Start the engine...IT WILL BE VERY LOUD, YOU CAN'T DRIVE AROUND LIKE THIS...see if the engine will rev up again like it used to, now that you've given the exhaust an 'exit path'.

I think there had been a recall on some Suzukis about this, but it's probably long expired. ISTR the stock converter listed at over $600. I went to a local muffler shop and they cut out the old converter and welded in a replacement for half that.

Hope this helps, Paul.

i had this same problem with my 87 samurai it wasn't the cat even though my first guess was the cat there is a vacuum switch valve on carb that applies vacuum to secondary actuator diaphragm disconnect both vacuum line hook them together bypassing vacuum switch if this solves your problem either the vacuum switch is bad or the thermal switch is bad i just connected the vac lines together and didn't worry about solving the root problem this system is designed so that the engine has to fully warm up before the secondary will work so let the engine warm up before you rev the engine past 3000 rpms (mike)

Geo (a subsidiary of GM/Chevrolet) began production of numerous vehicles in 1988. The 3-cylinder in question was developed by Suzuki and used in the Chevrolet Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, Suzuki Swift, and Geo Metro. Geo itself lived for ten years being swallowed by corporate GM in 1998. The Metro lived on as the Chevrolet Metro for two more years with the 3-cylinder 1.0L engine only available in the base hatchback - the sedan with the 1.3L 4-cylinder engine survived into 2001 as a fleet-sales only vehicle. So, year 2000 would basically be your answer.

what ever someone is willing yo pay.

I`ve found that in any vehicle if you can pour gas down the carb to make it run and you know the fuel pump is working (plenty of gas to the carb) than the diaphragm in the carb must have a small hole or crack which makes it loose pressure. If you rebuild the carb there will be one in the kit.

Bad needle/seat valve?

Float not adjusted properly?

4 quarts

This happened to us recently while we we replacing a worn u-joint. Still do not know the answer but will let you know if we get an answer. Were you able to get it out of neutral and how?

Your shifter sheet(bushing)is worn out. Mine just recently had this problem. It is an easy fix but a messy one. You have to remove the shifter from the T-case and clean out the old shifter sheet. You most likely will have to reallign the shift forks inside the t-case. Do this with a long flat blade screwdriver. When the forks are in line the shifter will fall back into place. Press the new shifter sheet into place and replace other parts. The new sheet will have exact instructions with it. It will cost you about $10 for the rubber one or $20 for the poly one. I recommend the poly sheet as it will last the lifetime of the truck. While you are at it you might as well do the transmission shifter sheet too. my name is Danny. i have a 89 zuk. Sammy. my t-case had same prob. so i put a sheet back in. it worked fine then i found a poly. sheet for it when i had same prob with my tranny. when i took rubber sheet out it was already worn in places just after a few months now i have a poly. bushin in tranny and t-case and both shif better then ever has and seems to be Holden u alot longer then rubber. that's a tip to help u save time and a chance of gettn stuck on trail

more than likely it's not in the head, it's probably going to be in the bottom end. It could be a rist pin or a rod cap. Another case might be that it is the well known 'piston slap' that most all suzukis make when they are cold. If your engine never warms up it may go on forever.

Your transfer case may be in neutrual.

hi I have. A 1988 samurai and when I start it up it will not idle up at all I have to give it gas to idle up wondering if there's something I can do.

assuming it's already pulled, you basically mark everything first. you need to know how many turns the adjusters on the sides have been turned, which side the caps are on so everything goes back together exactly the way it came apart. samurai diffs are about as easy as it gets. just make sure you pay attention to how it came apart and just put it back EXACTLY the way it came apart.it's all just loosing bolts and tightning bolts

I'd use 10w-30 year round most of the time, sometimes 10w-40 in the summer (100+ not unusual where I live) months.

Tried either 5w20 or 5w30 on one of my Samurai's one winter (winter temps around freezing but I'd also go winter camping down to around 0F)...bad idea, I got to replace the rod and main bearings shortly thereafter. I put 250K miles on mine, my kid got 180K out of his...so we got real good at pulling engines and transmissions, doing backyard rebuilds, etc.

If you are in a really hot area of the country, you might want to bump it up to 10w-40 in the summer months, otherwise any relatively name brand 10w-30 should be fine. Do NOT drop down to 5w-20! (Yes, this is the voice of experience talking!)

The order is 1-3-4-2

Realistically there is no difference between all the g13a engines, 1985-1989. You should have no problem at all. Check out g13b.com you will see that they, as professional engine re builders, see no difference.

The stick shift 4x4 is. I recommend:

Unlock the front HUBS

Put transmission in Neutral

Put Transfer case in Neutral

Unlock the steering and Tow like a trailer.