Toyota Solara

That information is in your owners manual (try page 327) along with a lot of other very useful information. If you don't have one, order one through your Toyota dealer or get one online. It's very likely you'll learn your Solara has a lot more to offer than you're aware of. To answer your question, the 6 cylinder 3MZ-FE engine takes exactly five-quarts or 4.7L of oil when changing oil and filter. Cheers

You must remove the under car apron under front bumper then lift down and access bulbs from behind fog lights

You must take the whole fuse box out. Then you will have access to the two bolts that hold it in place. The bolts are about 1 1/2" down from the top of the plastic fuse cover.

The fuel filter is located by right side of the engine...It's in front of the master cylinder..

Your first option should be to purchase a repair manual for your car. Check Amazon.com for the appropriate Chilton or Haynes publication. Your Check Engine light should come on if there's a problem with the 02 sensors or any other part of the engine control system. If you're just trying to be proactive here's the method as shown in the factory service manual With the engine cold (68 degrees F) measure resistance between the 02 sensor plug terminals. The resistance should be 11 to 16 ohms. If that figure is correct run the engine until it's thorougly warm. With the sensor hot (1472 degrees F) the resistance should read 23 to 32 ohms. The figures are the same for both 02 sensors. Cheers

Typically most forign cars hold around 5 quarts. I would recomend you buy a 5quart container and a 1 quart container of oil and pour in 4 quarts, start your car for 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil lvl if you need to add more add 1 more quart and so on.

You shouldn't have to cut wires at all. Just strip back a small amount of insulation on the appropriate wires then wrap and solder pigtail wires to them. Cover the exposed wiring with good quality electrical tape.

Easiest access to wiring is probably at your tail light. Identify wires with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Whether you tie in to separate brake, tail and turn wires depends on how the trailer is set up. If it has a separate turn signal then there's no need for a converter. If you just have a 'one light does all' setup (common in trailers) then you'll want to add a trailer light converter. It ties in to the individual brake/run/turn wires on the car then converts the signals so the single trailer light (on each side) knows when to be on for run, bright for brake or blinking for turns.

Keep in mind there is a very specific trailer wiring color code (search online for "trailer wiring" or something similar. Wired correctly at the trailer and car/truck ends the trailer will plug into any vehicle and any vehicle can pull any trailer without worrying about wiring mixups. The worst that could happen is you might need an adapter (available at any trailer supply store and some auto supply stores) to match different style plugs.

BTW, I think you'll find something in the owner's manual indicating trailer towing isn't recommended with the Solara (and most other cars for that matter). If you 'must' tow with it, pay attention to the gross vehicle weight limits (also in your manual) and add the loaded weight of the trailer into the mix. I.E. the trailer weight could replace the weight of three passengers. Too much weight will put stress on the drivetrain that could get expensive.

Cheers

The PCV valve only needs replacement if broken or if it's so gummed up it isn't functioning. The part is so inexpensive (usually $5 or less) that it's hardly worth cleaning. Just remove and replace if you get a code indicating the valve has failed. Cheers

Free fuse box diagrams for the 1999 Solara can be found at the library. The diagrams are located in do-it-yourself repair manuals for aÊSolara.

I doubt that question can be answered with a specific dollar figure, there are too many variables. For example, are you looking for a brand new crate engine from Toyota (if they're even available) or a rebuilt engine from an auto supply store or a used engine from a local wrecking yard? Those prices could vary considerably. Are you planning to do the work yourself (freebie) or pay someone to do the transplant for you? Where you live could also play a part in the cost. Big city labor is usually higher than small town.

In any event, I'd suggest you 'let your fingers do the walking' and check various sources beginning with your Toyota dealer. Call around to wrecking yards and, of course, check online sources. There are many sources for remanufactured engines.

I have a 2004 model with NAVI. It's very hard. You will need written instructions. Some of it is easy because of the design but some if it's hard and tricky. The "dashboard" pieces overlap and interlock so they must be removed in the proper sequence. Too involved to explain here. Especially removing the center AC vent housing. I have a subscription to AllData DIY they have complete instructions for this car.

You need 5W-30. The oil viscosity recommendation should be marked on your oil cap and in the owner's manual.

Cheers

I can only give you a partial answer. It will be one of the fuses in the fuse panel in the inside of the car. Is there a fuse layout on the back side of the puse panel cover? Owners manual, maybe. Sorry I could be of more help.

It would help if you'd mentioned the manufacturer/model/year of the vehicle. Since it's posted in the Solara section (along with Ford and Buick) I'll take a shot. I'll also assume you're talking about the Gen II Solara (2004 and beyond). If any of these assumptions is wrong ask your question again or (better) purchase a service manual for your car.

To 'Locate the top of rear strut" you can simply remove the rear wheel and take a look. To "access" the top of the rear strut for removal on the Solara is a little more comlicated.

1. Remove rear seat

2. Remove package tray (if it's a coupe and not convertible)

You can now get to the top strut mounting bolts. After that all the usual cautions and procedures apply. Lift car, support with jack stands, support rear axle, remove rear wheels, remove items attached to strut and (carefully) support them out of the way. Disconnect stabilizer bar link. Now the three upper strut bolts can be removed and the axle (carefully) lowered.

Cheers

Visit Toyota's tech info website https://techinfo.toyota.com/ Spend the $10 to become a member for 24 hours and download the entire factory service manual. It will provide step by step instructions. While on the site you can download every service bulletin ever issued for your car. If you or family members have other Toyota models you can download manuals/info for those vehicles too. Cheers

Take it to the shop

Drivers side, under (approx. 12-18") the Brake master cylinder on the inside frame rail. A simple way to find it is to follow the gas line from the fuel rail to the filter.

Two nuts attach the fuel line, one on each side. It should be a 14mm for the under side line and may be a 17mm (?) for the filter bottom. If possible to use a hydraulic line wrench to remove the nuts to prevent rounding them off.

On the top remove the cover to reveal a plastic clip, squeeze together and it pops out.

You line will have a residual pressure, so have something to protect yourself and catch the gas.

Cheers

If your owner's manual doesn't offer that information you have at least two other options:

1. Use a tape measure to determine the length of the wipers already mounted on the car. Be sure to measure both as many cars use two different lengths.

2. At an auto supply store, check the chart provided at the wiper display. It will show you the length(s) along with any options you might have. Many auto supply stores will even install the new blades for you (free).

Cheers

The factory recommended tire pressure is printed on a plate mounted on the drivers side door frame. It should also be in your owners manual. Depending on your driving style you 'might' want to consider modifying the pressure just slightly to suit your needs. An extra pound or two on the rear will tend to reduce the (abundant) oversteer in your car but don't get carried away and always adjust tire pressure with the tires cold (not run more than a few minutes at speeds over 35).

An alignment problem would not cause a vibration unless the alignment has worn the tires badly, therefore the tires would cause the vibration. If the tires are okay, have the drive axles checked, because a worn drive axle can cause vibration.

The car pulling to the right when the steering wheel is released is most likely an alignment problem, but could also be a "radial tire pull". Normally a rotation will correct that.

An alignment problem will NOT cause your wheels to bend. Normally, only an impact could cause that -- like pot holes, curbs, etc.

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this could be due to oil sludge. this is a common problem for 2003 solara. make sure to change your oil often.

Try replacing the tires! Apparently, Solaras suspension is very sensitive to tires with bad belts, bumps, flat spots, etc. Mine was shaking between 40 and 70 mph--replaced the front tires and it's smooth as silk no

try getting your tires balanced

32 psi will give you a smooth ride on that vehicle. Another way to see what the recommended psi is to check the inside of the door for a sticker that will tell you what all the pressures should be.

The tire placard in Toyota Corollas is inside the glove box and at least on my 1999 Corolla is listed at 30 lbs. They are not inside the driver's door like most every other vehicle.

The oil pump is in the oil pan (aka the "sump").

According to Wikipedia:

"The company was founded by Kiichiro Toyoda in 1937 as a spinoff from his father's company Toyota Industries to create automobiles. Three years earlier, in 1934, while still a department of Toyota Industries, it created its first product, the Type A engine, and, in 1936, its first passenger car, the Toyota AA. "

Mine aren't but if yours are there could be multiple reasons:

1. No or little tread on the tires

2. Wet street

3. Brakes applied hard on gravel or other low traction surface

4. The anti-lock brake system isn't working as it should. If this is the case you'd see the "Antilock" warning light on the dash.

Under normal circumstances an emergency stop should cause the anti-lock system to take control, releasing brakes at individual wheels as it senses the wheel is about to lock up (skid the tire).

If you suspect your brakes aren't working properly you should have them looked at by a qualified mechanic.

Cheers