VW Beetle Type 1

Depends on where in the world the car was built and sold. Available engines of that era were 1300, 1500 (most common) and 1600CCs. The 1600cc engine was most common in the Super Beatles whilst the 1500 was most common in the L Bugs.

If you mean the cable ... take the oil cap off the front passenger side wheel. Pull the spring clip off then pull it out from the back. Then disconnect the cable from the back of the speedo and pull it up. If your replacing it ... be sure not to bend it when you put it back in.

possibly overheating or faulty sensors in cap lid!

Brazilian vw beetles used 14 inch rim 4 lugs .

Between 1971 and 1979.

Volkswagens are built by German people, who do NOTHING at random. Let us, then, dissect this part number.

The first three digits are the model which this part was originally used on. In this case, the first 1 means "type 1"--sedans--and the "13" immediately after it stands for Super Beetle. (This is also how we know the part is from a 1970s-era car: Supers were introduced in 1971.)

The second group is the Part Class. The "3" is for transmission parts; 01 means the case. The whole transmission is part group 300.

The third group is just a one-up notation, but VW liked to use the same numbers for the same part on different cars--like a brake shoe on a Super and one on a Bus would have the same third group, even though bus brakes and bug brakes are different.

1600cc carburated

A 1974 Volkswagen Beetle takes 2. 5 liters of oil. The weight of the oil should be 15W30. When the oil is changed, the oil filter should also be changed.

Bleeder screw for clutch is at the slave cylinder, on the bell housing of the Transmission. The bleeder for the brakes is on the calipers, and on the backing plate of the rear drum brakes

Open the hood. Locate the seam between the nosepiece and the front fender (either side). Go up to the second fender mounting bolt and look down under the fender a few inches. (driver's side - take the battery distribution cover off & there is an access hole just above the negative battery terminal) You'll see a small push-button with hatch marks on it just in front of a lever with a finger recess on the underside. (I recommend finding it on the passenger side first. It is more evident on that side & makes it easier to find on the driver's side.) Push in the push-button w/hatch marks to release the lever & pull up on the lever - the lever is pretty stiff. When you lift the lever the headlamp assembley will slide forward slightly. Once you've topped out the lever, push on the headlight from behind with one hand and be prepared to catch the assembly with the free hand from the front. There is a black plastic cover on the back of the housing. Lift the tab to remove the cover. There is a metal spring clip that holds the bulbs in place. Undo this and the bulb will come out of the center (with the wire attached). You should be good to go now.

Thanks to the guy that posted the response to the 2000 Beetle headlight question. The newer ones are similar enough that note was the lead-in to this. Hope it helps you out & saves you some problems.

All the Type 1 Beetle engine blocks are the same capacity. About 2.5 quarts. All your changing is the cylinders and or crank so there is no expansion of the block. The only way to expand the capacity is to add an auxiliary tank on the bottom of the motor bolted to the oil intake screen cleaning panel which has your drain plug bolted to it. You can then gain another 1.5, 2.5 or more quarts. You can also gain another quart or so by installing an external oil filter.

Volkswagens hold 2500 milliliters of oil. Since they don't sell it in metric quantities in the US, put in 2.5 quarts and call it good. If you put in too much oil, you'll push out the main seal and you REALLY don't want to have to replace one.

$1600

You first need to make sure the crank is fitted with the seven pieces that must be attached to it...number 3 main bearing, a couple of gears and so on.

There are two gears you've got on the crank, correct? One is brass, the other is steel. The brass one is the distributor drive. Ignore it for now. Look at the cam gear (the steel one) from the end of the crank and you'll notice two teeth with dots pressed into their sides. Get your cam and look at its gear with the cam in your hand, and there's one tooth with a dot pressed into it. This one dot on the cam goes between the two dots on the crank. The easiest way to line these up is to put a little dot of paint on the teeth in question, so it's easier to see them.

Your engine case has two sides. One has eight long studs sticking out of it. Take this one and lay it on the table with the cylinder spigots pointing down and studs up. Put the main and cam bearings in the case, and lubricate them with assembly lube. Set the crank in its bearings and rotate it until you see the dots, then set the cam into this gear with the dot on the cam gear between the two dots on the crank gear. Then roll the cam down into place. Next, gently rotate the cam gear a few revolutions. If the one dot on the cam gear always winds up right between the two dots on the crank gear, the cam is in.

Heavy duty diesel oil. The answer I usually give is Shell Rotella T 15W40. There's also Chevron Delo 400, Castrol Tection Extra and Mobil Delvac. Any of them will work. You can get most of them at Walmart.

The 2012 Volkswagen Beetle runs on regular unleaded.

I think it's between $30-$40. It's fairly easy to do : http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_headlight_bulb_located_on_a_2000_VW_Beetle

it is held on by a small clip you have to force it out ie pull on the handle, you need to get replacement clips from vw, i have the problem mine come lose rubbish design

New tensioner, as they are automatic.

less than $100 if you do the work your self

The gas mileage of a 1964 bug depends on if you have had a new engine put into it, on average a 1964 bug has a 1450cc-1500cc engine in it. Meaning it will have around 50-56 hp. The lower the horse power, the smaller the engine. If you have a 10% smaller engine you get about 6% higher gas mileage. If your slug bug has an ac kit it lowers gas mileage by 3. On average a 1964 bug will have 28-36 mph

Dr. Ferdinand Porsche. Yes, *that* Porsche.

I live in Montana, I drive 60 miles round trip to work. at the end of my trip I go up a steep grade of a hill about a mile of it and then down the other side about 1/2 mile and I get around 33 mpg. with 99 bug...........Karen

A dual port 1600 is fine. As long as it is maintained it should have plenty of power for your bug. I frequently takes trips of 600 miles and more in mine.

You see that small, round-topped brass thing sitting beside the generator stand and the distributor cap? That's the fuel pump. Follow the fuel line from the carb back down, and it joins the pump.