VW Beetle Type 1

It's the teenager you need to worry about. Not the kind of car.

70-72 1600 dual port

The serial number on a Bug is in three places:

lower left corner of the windshield

on the front apron under the trunk lid

and stamped into the transmission tunnel under the back seat.

With Beetles backfiring usually means that (usable fuel) is too lean. The gas fails to burn efficiently and the unburned fuel mixture fills the exhaust system. Add a spark and it explodes. This can be from a vacuum leak from the carburetor/intake manifold flange or the manifold where attached to the cylinder head. This can be be from a number of things, these are just the most common.

front, no. the front valance is different and the headlamps are different. back, yes.

Make sure it's tuned properly, the engine compartment is properly sealed, and the fan belt is adjusted. Three things that cause these cars to overheat are (1) timing retarded, (2) the gasket between the engine tin and the body is rotted out, and (3) the fan belt's too loose. Also the engine speed relates to cooling and the ACVW must not be driven like a modern car cruising at 2K RPM. Generally speaking 1st to 20, 2nd to 40, 3rd to 60. Adjust accordingly, but you do not want to lug the engine or spin less than 2500 rpm for extended periods of time. You can also get oil temp or head temp gauges to help monitor the engine temps.

If it's a swingaxle Bug, they make a kit with a retrofit boot. You cut the old boot off and bolt the new one together around the axle. An IRS Bug requires a pair of circlip pliers and a CV bolt socket. Take the axle out of the car and remove the circlips from the axle. Knock the axle out of the CVs with a big hammer and a drift punch. Throw the old boots away. Clean and repack the CVs, put the boots on the axle, then the CVs on the axle, then the axle back in the car.

it is on the passenger side of the block where it meets the transmission....right down behind intake....

check fuse for cooling fan, or possibly temperature sensor at inlet.

there is a lever inside the glove box to unlatch the trunk !! that model also may have a key lock on the handle that you may have to unlock as well. it is in front of car and after unlocking it you push the lock cylinder in on the handle and pull upwards the trunk is in the front.

2.5 Quarts according to John Muir (How to keep your vw alive)

That depends on whether it is a door window, side window, or a windshield. A door window is the most involved because it involves removing the door panel, the regulator, and finally the window glass bracket itself. Hopefully you are a mechanically-inclined person or know somebody that is good with tools, because I'm leaving the door window answer at that. For side windows and windshields, the plan is much the same- Remove the old glass (if any), all of the old seal material, and now would be a good time to check the condition of the paint around the lip of the window opening. Assuming the paint is in good shape, no rust bubbles or peeling top coat (or even a different color of paint!), you place the new seal in the sun to warm until it becomes workable and the bends or kinks it acquired while packed up tight relax. Next, fit the seal around the window glass and use a piece of ten to twelve gauge wire into the gap in the outer edge of the seal (a short length of slack at each end of the wire is necessary). Now, a bit of soap or silicone lubricant can be used to help with window installation and a mild adhesive could be used to hold the seal to the glass during installation. But now comes the tricky part- Place the window into the opening with the dangling wire ends to the inside if the vehicle and have somebody (or some tape) hold it in while you go inside and begin pulling the wire into the vehicle, bringing the lip of the seal with it! The trick her is to hold both ends of the wire so you don't lose it and have to start over. Also, a slight pressure on the window from the outside may help prevent the seal from slipping out during installation. If you do not wish to use wire, you may use a strong thin rope or even buy the specially designed tool! (if you so desire.) Windshields are essentially the same except for size and weight. Disclaimer: I have yet to actually perform such an installation, although I soon will on the windshield of my '70 beetle. Thank you.

The Type 1 engine # is stamped on the crankcase under the generator support facing the rear. This # will tell you what year the motor is and the stock size if it has not been modified. ( Info from John Muir,s book HOW TO KEEP YOUR VW ALIVE)

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible is 5 ft. 11.2 in. (71.2 in.)12V front power outlet(s) wide.

1-4-3-2

A bunch.

First is size. The biggest Type 1 engine VW made was 1600 cc. The smallest Type 4 engine was 1679 cc, and some of the Bus engines were 2000 cc.

The engine case is totally different, starting with the metals used: Type 1 engines had magnesium cases. Type 4 has an aluminum case.

Type 4 comes from the factory with an oil filter.

The Type 1 engine has the cooling fan mounted on the end of the alternator shaft, and it's driven by a belt. If that belt breaks you need to get to the side of the road right now and change it before your motor melts. The Type 4 engine's cooling fan is bolted to the end of the crankshaft; if the belt breaks you will eventually be pushing your car home but you won't destroy the engine.

The Type 4 engine is a lot heavier than the Type 1.

tools you'll need:

usually a 15mm socket

possibly a flexible mirror(i needed one to take out mine)

a floor jack

jack stands

something to lay down on,

and some patience. lol

STEP 1:

ok take your floor jack and go to the back of your bug, look under it and find a round plate on your crankcase with some bolts in it, that is your oil drain put your jack undeneathe it and start cranking it(don't worry it wont hurt anything) crank it up until your jack stands will fit underneathe the suspension(right in front of your rear wheels you'll see a round thing sticking out it kinda looks like a pipe almost, just in front of it is where your IRS(independent rear suspension) connects to the frame) put your jack stands underneathe it. ok lower your bug back down onto the jacks: NOTE, don't take your floor jack all the way down, leave it so its still tight on the crankcase.

STEP 2:

ok now that you have your bug jacked up you'll need to throw something down to lay on. ok get down at the rear on the passenger side of the car, slide forward until your head is just a lil bit forward of the rear axle, now look up, coming out of the back of the engine you'll see your starter. it looks like a big electric motor you cant miss it.

STEP 3:

alright first disconnect your battery totally, make sure your bug in NOT in gear and the key is off. ok there are two large terminals on the solenoid, remove the nuts off them and take off the wires, there will also be two smaller wires with slip connections on them remove those as well. ok now here comes the fun part. coming out on either side of the starter there are ears with bolts in them, this is where you'll need your 15mm socket. ok remove the bolts, depending on how the starter is sitting you may need your flexible mirror to see it.( i know i did for mine) allright once you have taken out the two bolts your starter should simply slip out. if it doesnt come out at first kinda jiggle it around and it should pop out.

NOTE: it is KEY that you disconnect your battery or you will found out the hard way what 12 volts across your heart feels like. I've seen it happen to ppl and its not a pleasent sight.

Also, make sure your car is secured to where you're comfortable enough to crawl under it. your face will be right under the axle so if it drops it will ruin your weekend!

and last but not least MAKE SURE YOU PUT BLOCKS UNDER YOUR FRONT WHEELS!!!!

if you have any questions feel free to email me here.

unmaskedfear_15@yahoo.com

go to The Samba http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

well there is legal and illegal ways..

Nobody does it legally, so illegally you drive it across the border where there is nobody looking, and file for a lost title where you are going.. just like Mexican people do.

Legally, you have to have EPS testing, taxation and verification of the car's safety things. This is pretty drawn out process unless you leave the Mexican plates on and stay in Texas for a short time.

If all else fails file it under NAFTA as a business car. NAFTA over-rides all other laws in the US anyway.

The oil capacity for a 2.0 liter VW Beetle is approximately 4.2 quarts. The recommended oil type is 10 W 30.

The 1914 bug from Volkswagen inspired Europe to innovation in automobile.

This particular car has a very reliable flat 4 engine and simple stick transmission.

surprisingly this car has very low horse power. Many would think it has more

than 100 horses because of its power but wrong. This vehicle has bearly75

horses in the engine. Anyways this particular car was very well engineered at

its time and has a long life span. With it's light chassis and body these cars felt

like a feather assuming by the drivers that it had a very strong engine.

Usually, you would have to drop the engine, or remove the fuel lines and intake manifolds, but I actually accomplished this in about 45 minutes without doing any of it.

You will need:

36mm Socket
a breaker bar
a camera (optional)
your basic socket and open wrench set for a vw, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm..etc.
a pair of vice grip pliers
a new carburetor gasket
cable ties

The main steps involved are:

Remove the deck-lid and the lid-hinges that are attached to the top of the engine compartment. put all your screws back in so that you remember where they go.

disconnect the negative battery wire off your battery located under the back seat.

Unscrew the coil from the engine shroud, not necessarily taking all the cables off and set it down to the side, out of the way.

Remove the outside half of the alternator pulley. (remove the 21mm nut on it and it will slide right off.) Pay attention to how many shims are on the alternator shaft and where they are located. These are used to adjust the tension on the alternator belt.

Here, when you slide it all off - take a cable tie through the middle and tie everything down so that you don't lose anything.

Remove The wiring on the alternator. If you have an externally regulated alternator you will have a rubber cap on the top, which makes it easy to remember where the wires go. If you have a newer internally regulated alternator it's still pretty easy- you have one female spade terminal on one wire, and a loop terminal on the other.

remove the bolt on the alternator strap and slide the strap back so it is no longer contacting the alternator stand.

take the vice grip pliers, and in the front of the alternator you'll be able to see the spinning components. turn it slowly with your finger until you see it line up, take the grips and insert it around one of the bars, tighten it on either side so that it stops it from spinning.

on the side of the carb, you'll see the throttle cable that comes through the fan shroud. unscrew it, and make sure you place the holding nut and screw in a safe place!

undo the bolts from the carburetor stand and set your carb down to the side. plug the clean rag into the intake manifold, so that nothing will fall in.

If you have a standing oil cooler on the back of the shroud, it'll be to the left. reach back with an open wrench and undo the nuts that will release the cover plate for the oil cooler.

Now, you can lift out the alternator attached to the fan shroud.

Take the breaker bar and 36mm socket, and attach it to the nut behind the doghouse shroud on the back of the fan that is driven by the alternator shaft. Fit the socket and breaker bar onto this nut, and as you put pressure on it, the vice grip will hold the alternator in place and you should break it loose.

It should only be torqued to about 45 ft lbs, but sometimes people get a little overzealous when putting them on. Sometimes a little bit of penetrating oil (I prefer WD40) can help as well.

Once the large nut is off remove the screws holding the backing plate to the doghouse shroud. There are also 4 10mm nuts to remove on the front side of the shroud. you will likely have some shims/washers on the fan side of the alternator shaft as well. Again, take note of where these are located, take a cable tie through the holes and tighten and set aside.

Once the 36mm nut, backing screws and 10mm nuts are removed you can slide the alternator out and the fan will be loose inside.

Additional tips:

This is the best time to check for cable corrosion, hoses, oil cooler condition and anything else you usually can't see when the shroud is back on.

when you replace the carb, you'll need a new gasket.

If you look at the front suspension of any beetle you can tell if it is a super or non-super beetle. If there is a McPherson front suspension then it is a super beetle. If there is a torsion bar front suspension then it is a non-super beetle.

If you adjust the valves at 0.08 you can skip adjustment to the second or third oil change othewise you usually have to adjust the valves especially cyl number 3 every oil change which is 3k miles