VW Beetle Type 1

27 mm.

You may want to check around, because VW switched to a 24mm steering wheel nut size in 1973.

Make sure when you put your top down that the convertible picture disappears on the display and the clock and temperature are showing. Sometimes the top will appear to be all the way down but for some reason the sensor gets hung up and the car will beep. Just put the top up a little and then all the way down like I said. Should take care of the problem. I hope so for you, otherwise, yikes, another repair!

the floor pan could be sagging due to rot around the heater channel. common cause.

My best guess would be to check the connection on the oil pressure sensor. you can find it on the side of the engine case just below the distributor. you may try replacing this sensor. it shouldn't cost more than $10. if this doesn't work you'll need to trace the wires.
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Before you do that, take the oil pressure sender out, stick a clean rag under the hole it was in, pull the center wire on the distributor so the car won't start and crank the engine over a couple times. If no oil comes out, the oil pump drive pinion isn't meshing with the slot in the end of the camshaft. You fix it by removing the crank pulley, then the back piece of tin followed by the oil pump cover. There are two gears in there. One of 'em has a shaft sticking out of it. Use a puller to push the shaft out a little, then stick it back in the engine. Wiggle it back and forth a bit. If the shaft's meshed with the slot, you won't be able to wiggle it far. Finish by putting a new paper gasket under the cover, bolting the cover on and changing the oil. Now...these cars will run a few miles with no oil pressure; the machinery inside the engine throws oil up on the moving parts. But it doesn't work forever.

its basically the same thing. an automatic tranny wont go in Overdrive until youre going at a generally constant speed. the same is true with a manual transmission- while driving on average roads (40-55 mph) you will not shift into the final gear until you are going at a constant speed.

Overdrive is a gear that turns the vehicle driveshaft faster than the engine and is used to improve fuel mileage (and also lower CO2 emissions). Typically 5 or greater in a manual or 4th gear or greater in an automatic is overdrive but there are exceptions. Because of CAFE (fuel economy standards) virtually all cars and small trucks have come factory with ovedrive since 1981.

Shorted wire to ground or failed brake switch.

Should be better than 12L/100km. Mine is worn out and gets driven hard but still manages it, even with competition days. I could imagine a good one getting 10L/100km on the highway.

the red warning light will come on. this is the same light that comes on in blue when engine is started.

cable driven,fromt drivers side wheel

There are 2 screws on the inside of the door under the door seal, remove and slide the door handle off.

I assume you are referring to the 3 outlet ports? Thereare 2 separateones for the front brakes, one for the left front brake and one for the right front,and the 3rd goes to the rear brakes. There are 2 hoses from the fluid reservoir and 2 more on the bottom which have electrical connections, the brake light switch and the warning light switch.

It should be under the rear seat on the passenger side. You need to lift up the seat bottom cushion to get to it.

yes but flywheel has to be changed to 12volt

it sounds like the carb needs adjusting as it may be running a bit of a rich mixture,take out a spark plug and if it is black and oily the mix is too rich but if the plug has a whiteish colur its too weak.also if you have over 50thou miles up it could be time to put in a carb repair set,it costs about ten quid and only takes an hour to change the gaskets,float etc. and its easy to follow the diag included.i assume the points are ingood nick and the plugs etc..its not a serious problem i think,carb screw are fussy enough and the cold weather makes em act up a bit too. If checking the carb does ot work, might pay to check the coil.

carb needs cleaning and check vauum lines for cracks and such....

Behind the brake pedal stem. You need to crawl underneath the dashboard in order to see it.

5 quarts

Are you just wanting to know how to open it so you drive with the top down? If so, you push the big button in the center on the top, then the handle will release and it unlocks the top from the car. You turn the handle to the driver side I believe (sorry not sitting in my car to remember), then push the handle back up to its place. Then you push or pull the button between the seats to open the top...until it shows on the display its done. To put it back on, do the same in reverse order. Just remember the handle only turns one way. The best way to do it is to use your right hand, grab it with your palm facing you (under hand) and turn towards driver.

The 1963 Volkswagen Beetle gets 10 to 12 miles per gallon. The Volkswagen Beetle originated in Germany and was designed by Adolf Hitler.

10 gallon fuel tank on '67 T1 (bug)

The ground clearance of the 2014 Volkswagen Beetle-Convertible is 0 ft. 5.6 in. (5.6 in.).

A 1965 Standard Beetle consists of 4893 parts.

pull off distributor cap then make sure the distributor is pointing at cylinder 1 and at the same time make sure the sharp v mark on the pulley is lined up with crank case then pull off valve cover gasket and adjust both intake and exhaust to 6 thousandths then crank the pulley on the alternator with spark plug wrench 180 degrees and this will put you at cylinder 2 and adjust cylinder 2 at six thousandths and continue another 180 degrees to cylinder 3 on the other side of engine then to 4 when you accomplish this for the first time you will feel really really good

Try getting the linkage looked at and get a new clutch Try putting your car in gear when it is not running, the clutch in and start the car. If the car moves, your clutch cable could be broken. (make sure car is pointing in safe direction before trying to start) your shift rod bushing is bad, possibly the synchronizer in the tranny. but try the bushing first. it's inside the tunnell, right underneath the shfter. How hard is it to push the clutch pedal? If it's way too easy, and the pedal won't come back up on its own, you've got one of two problems--the hook on the clutch pedal broke, or something happened in the clutch lever linkage on the transmission. List of probables in order of them happening: Hook on the clutch pedal broke. Easy fix: remove the pedal cluster from the car, take the retaining bolt out, drive the clutch hook out and install a new one. These break a lot, so any VW parts place has them for less than $10. To get the pedal cluster back in, you've got to get under the car and undo the clutch cable at the transmission end. Clevis on the clutch cable broke. Reasonably easy fix: change the clutch cable. That clevis is made from really cheap metal anyway, so they wear out. Clutch adjusting nut fell off. This would take some doing because the nut has lots of threads sticking out of it, but it's conceivable. Fix is to get a new one. Clutch arm broke, clutch fork inside the trans broke. Depending on how well you can drop a Volkswagen engine, this is either a very easy fix or a very hard one. Anyway, the engine's gotta come out but everything that needs to be fixed is in the bellhousing so you don't have to mess with opening the trans case. If this happens, change your clutch, the throwout bearing, and your transmission oil at the same time. You're there anyway. But seriously I think it's one of the first two--VW transmissions are built well.