The engine comes out the bottom. There are four 17 mm nuts holding the engine in place. Two are at the top of where the engine joins with the transmission behind the fan shroud and the other two are at the bottom of where the engine and tranny connect. You will need to be beneath the car to get those nuts off.

Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Now raise the jack beneath the engine just so it is supporting the engine's weight. Be careful not to jack it up so high that you bend or damage the studs that hold the engine in place.

You will want to disconnect the gas line, which is beneath the car on the driver's side. Disconnect it so that you will be able to stick a piece of a pencil in the gas hose. This will prevent gas leaks. While beneath the car, disconnect the fresh air hoses from the heat exchangers (if you have them) and disconnect the heater control cables from the heat exchangers. Back the two nuts off of the bottom studs that hold the engine to the tranny. To remove the top nuts, you will need to reach back behind the fan shroud with your 17 mm wrench. I have found that it is sometimes necessary to use a pair of vice grips beneath the car to get these top bolts not to spin with the nuts.

Before going any further, clearly label all wires (battery, starter, ignition coil, etc.). This is going to make it much easier to connect everything when you get ready to put the engine back in. Remove the distributor cap (for ease of access to the throttle) and loosen the nut that holds the accelerator cable to the carb. Slip the cable from the carb and pull it back through the fan shroud.

You are now ready to pull the engine. With the weight of the engine resting on the jack (and, preferably with someone who can help you), pull back with a "wiggle" motion until the engine is clear of the tranny. This will involve slightly tipping the engine toward you. When it is clear of the car, slowly and carefully lower the engine to the floor, balancing its weight on the jack. Go slowly, as this is an aluminum case, and a fall of only inches can crack it.

When you have the engine lowered, pull it from beneath the car, do your work, and then reinstall the engine in reverse order of removal.

Add 1 oz of gas to the carburetor and start right away.

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I agree with above answer...sort of. I have a '93 VR6 and it does not have a carburator. Maybe spraying starting fluid into the throttle bottle will work, but I would think the fuel pump doesn't need the help on a fuel injected car. But, then again, I'm just a shadetree mechanic.

It is possible that years of dirt have been floating around in the fuel tank and just got sucked into your fuel filter with the last drop of gas, and now your fuel filter is clogged. Besides, nobody ever replaces fuel filters in a timely fashion anyway, so its a good idea to replace the fuel filter and you will probably notice a slight performance improvement. The fuel filter is located on the inside of the frame rail beneath the front door, driver's side I think...easy to find because it has fuel lines attached to both sides. It is aluminum, so silver in color unless its now covered in dirt. The fuel filter is held in place with a clamp with a single bolt to loosen. Mine got rusted together so I removed the two bolts of the bracket and removed the entire bracket to replace the filter. All in all, an easy project if you have a car jack and a safety stand. Make sure the keys are out of the ignition so the fuel pump is NOT energized. There is a little bit of fuel that will spill out (probably on your clothes, if you are like me). The fuel lines are attached by clamps. 10 minute job for a human...30 minutes for a monkey....it took me about 20 minutes. By the way, a fuel filter probably costs $10 or so....one of the better cheap things to do to any car that isn't brand new.

If your problem is squeaking from the front of the car this is coming from the front suspension and proberbly the transverse arms. This is the first stage of the problem and is repairable without any major costs. The problem occurs when the MOS2 Molybdendisulfid grease in the balljoints start to dry out. This is repaird by removing the 4 tranverse arms and the C-link on both sides of the car and overhauling the gaiter covered balljoints. Carefulle remove all grease in baljoint and in gaiter and generously replace with new. Be careful when removing and mounting retaining springs. I have done this on my Passat 98 1.8T and it really works. My problem ocurred after 75000 km. This overhaul can NOT be done according to VW. The nest stage with this problem is instead a crunching noise from the same mechanics and it is a costly problem because one or more ball joints are damaged and worn out beyond repair. Now one ore more transverse arms or complete kit has to be replaced. Cost, ~$1000 for kit only. Can also be found on the internet in Germany for ~Euro 350. Regards Bo L

Its not a symbol. It will say "Service Engine Soon."

The gasket on the tank access hole is dried out or damaged. Replace that and you'll probably solve the problem.

No, you don't have to replace the whole assembly to repair a dead bulb. I have checked with the Bentley shop manual on this procedure and what you have to do is the pull on the black surround trim around the fog light. Do this from the area between the light and toward the license plate and the piece of black surround trim should POP off. IT is held in by tabs.

Next you have to unscrew the whole fog light assembly with the three screws holding it in (Not the adjuster TORX head screw-that is for adjustment).

It should then be able to pull it out of the bumper a bit and disconnect the connector from the foglight assembly. Twist off the back of the fog light assembly and you will have access to the bulb and will see how it connects.

Unsnap the retainer holding in the bulb and disconnect the lead going to the bulb to remove. Be careful not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands!! If you do carefully clean it with a cloth wetted with alcohol to remove any oil from your hands. If you don't, the bulb will shatter as soon as power is applied or will fog over instantly. These are halogen bulbs that get very hot and any oil will harden instantly on it's surface and crack the bulb.

Installation is the reverse from removal.

IT is not a very hard job to do but care should be taken with disconnecting the assembly connector first so that you can remove the whole light making it easier to work on.

To check the automatic gearbox oil level on a 2002 Passat TDI Estate, pull out the dipstick with the gearshift in neutral. Let the engine run and check on the oil level.Ê

Check engine?

I am looking for the same answer.

I found Castrol Synthetic Oil meets the Volkswagen Passat requirements per the Passat manual. I found it at an Advance Auto Parts store.

I havn't checked the drain plug location or type, or the filter location.

you can buy a tool from car shop just for the job. you place it between the brake piston and in the caliper and twist pushes pistonsback and lets you fit new pads costs about £20.00 but worth it hope this helps

what you need to do is take of +terminal from batt put key in egg turn to on pois leave it for 10 min reconnect + and away you go.

I dont know what you mean by broken but if the handle i broken off and there is just a space where the handle would go, you can definitely open that, mine is like that.

First you put your finger inside the space and you will be able to feel 2 pins or something, one will be facing right and one left, they have a gap between them. You press them both at the same time and it will open.

Hope that helps

the ECM is mounted on the drivers side fender well, it should have 2 or 3 large plugs going to it.

Use 20W50 oil (Castrol makes it) in a type 1 VW.

I have a service bulletin which covers the brake callipers but not the rotor replacement. If the calliper info would be helpful just post your email address or a hotmail location and I will upload the bulletin, it's a pdf file. Regards. Calliper servicing (front and rear)info can be found at this Russian site http://volkswagen.msk.ru/ I still could not find the rotor torque figures but they may also be there. Enjoy!

No. Body and suspension parts used on the type 3 and on the bug are different. The pan on a fastback is wider.

2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2.8L 6-cyl Engine Code AHA, ATQ
CAPACITIES
AWD with filter..........5.3 quarts
FWD with filter..........6.4 quarts 2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 1.8L 4-cyl Engine Code AWM Turbo
CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........4.2 quarts 2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2.0L 4-cyl Engine Code 1968cc TurboDiesel
CAPACITIES
2004 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 4.0L 8-cyl Engine Code BDP
CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........8.8 quarts Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
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According to adtunes.com, Volkswagen licensed the entire latest album of the group Wilco "Sky Blue Sky."

I would advise going to a site where they sell the CD (like Amazon) and listening to samples from the album.

The most common cause for dim headlights is a bad ground connection. Headlights draw a relatively large amount of current. Any loose or corroded connection in the circuit will drop a large amount of voltage, which doesn't leave enough for the headlights to operate properly.

As I know it is for electric windows, electric dooor locks and alarm. Might also control interior lights.

press the FM button once.