Depends on which Volkswagen you will be flying.

Sealed unit- you can't. However there is a drain plug/level indicator toward the rear of the gearbox.

Here is a good description. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=288052

yes i recently had mine replaced and it was covered under the emissions warranty

Listed on the driver's door post and in your owner's manual. *Both petrol and diesel with 165/80x13 are listed as 30 psi front and rear Mike 2

Quite a few posibillities Lack of fuel Low battery charge , engine not turning over fast enough Faulty starter motor Faulty engine earth Air lock in fuel system Clogged fuel filter Immoboliser fault Timing belt broken.

Your biggest problem with overfilling the engine is not damage to the converter but damage to the engine itself. Overfilling causes the crankshaft to make contact with the oil. This will cause a situation where air will be mixed with the oil. This air mixed with the oil causes the oil to lose it's lubricating properties as air is a poor lubricant. This will cause the engine to overheat and will result in severe wear to all moving parts within the engine. If you overfill the engine drain the excess oil out immediately.

If its slipping only in 4th gear, it could be that your releaser bearing is gone with the p/plate. Or your gearbox has had its days and would need to be replaced/ repaired.

Either low coolant level or the engine is overheating.

Check the ignition coil. At cold coils generally operate properly, when the coil heats a failing unit will start to break down and fail causing misfiring and poor engine operation. Second check for a failing ignition controller in the distributor.

Gas: 5W30 synthetic, gasoline-rated oil. Diesel: 5W40 synthetic, diesel-rated oil.

Inside cab, to the left of the steering column under the dash is the relay / fuse panel. On that panel is the glow plug relay.

There is no bathroom window on any Water-cooled VW.

You may have a broken or disconnected vaccuum line probably at or around the fuel injector or fuel line its most likely caused by a vacuum leak also if its injection check the cold start valve is working on the injection if its carb check the choke butterfly is closing and the choke idle speed is high enough could also have pulled a bit of dirt from the fuel tank but i wudda thought this would have affected the performance when hot too

Water acts as a conductor of heat, therefore when water, or most any liquid is in contact with your skin, its accelerates the conduction process, that is, it allows the heat to be transferred from your skin to the surrounding air more quickly.

This is also the reason that we sweat.

it could be a few things but normally i check the battery first, then i would check the starter motor by bridgeing the solenoid and then if it wont turn try turning the engine manually to see if it seized but its easiar to take the plugs out to do this.

Improper use of the clutch or improper adjustment will wear the driven plate out very quickly. The clutch pedal free play should be at least 1/2" or 12 mm. Don't rest your foot on the pedal while driving. Both will cause wear.

if your problem is a sloppy pedal......... then you probably need to bleed the slave cylinder, not adjust the clutch cable.

As you correctly point out, this is a cable, not hydraulic, system. The adjustment is on the top of the transmission, towards the front of the car, between the motor and the battery. IT is usually a big black "cable" leading into a 3" while plastic adjustment mechanism, before the actual cable itself exits and heads to the clutch release arm.

In this case, you need 2 wrenches (13mm as I recall) and need to turn the white plastic bits until the clutch cable snugs up a bit.