1-3-4-2 in a clockwise rotation... = 1993 Acura Integra
1.8 liter DOHC L4 =
there may be a difference in 93-older tegs, but 94-newer you will find a breather on top of the transmission with a dime-sized rubber cap on it. remove this cap, and the way i fill the trans is place a rubber 3/8" hose over the end of a funnel, and the other end of the hose over the breather tube. the tranny takes 2 quarts total of 10w30 motor oil. this applies to ls,gs,rs, gsr, and itr, hydro manual transmissions ONLY! also there are two plugs on the side of the tranny; one to drain the oil, and one to check the level. hope this helped!
10w 40 is recommended if driving highway speed for prolonged periods.
Remove the EGR valve and clean the passages and/or clean the MAF sensor in the air intake tube (use alcohol and be VERY carefull when cleaning the two small wires). Could also be the IAC or idle air control valve. There are very nice writeups on cleaning the IAC, MAF and EGR passages in the tech section at www.lincolnsonline.com
Approximately 4.5 quarts on a 1996 Integra GS-R (So it should be close for the '95). Approximately 4.5 quarts on a 1996 Integra GS-R (So it should be close for the '95).
no the shifter linkage are not the same between the sohc and dohc
It takes about 4.1 qt
1.8 Liter DOHC VTEC Engine hydro operated tranny 200hp/134tq/11.1 Compression Ratio
The drain plug is on the drivers side of the radiator. It is almost straight down from the headlight assembly.
I found this site, http://installdr.com/InstallDocs/Acura/Integra.html, hope it helps.
Check the main relay on the car. It may have bad solder joints. I have a 1990 Honda Civic Wagon that did the same thing. Replaced Fuel injectors, ECU and did tons of testing and checking before I found out about the main relay being the cuplrit. Cost me $36 for a new relay and about 30 minutes to check and re-solder the joints on it before installing. I still have my old relay for backup after I repaired it. The bad solder joints in the main relay will cause the fuel pump to shut down and the ECU will signal a fuel problem because the bad joints in the main relay are not sending the signal. Happen during the heat of the day or just after making a short run and shutting the car off. You have to let things cool off and then reset the ecu to get it started, at least I did. After fixing the main relay, haven't missed a start since, unless you count bad batteries and alternators.
I had a similar problem except that with mine the ABS and ESP lights were on. Suggestions on the internet was that the ABS pump needs to be changed and the cost is around £1000. However a friend of mine diagnosed the fault as follows using diagnostic equipment: 1) ECU does not know/is not allerted when the brakes are applied He suggested putting a new brake switch 2) Left speed sensor giving innacurate data. He suggested a good clean of the sensor but mainly the area around the sensor. After cleaning the area around the sensor, the ABS/ESP lights remained on. However upon fitting a new switch all lights on the dash board was off and the car is fine. My mate mentioned that people are too quick to start changing parts on a car when the actual problem is a very simple one. A new sensor if I had changed would have cost me £110!! Hope this helps I had a similar problem except that with mine the ABS and ESP lights were on. Suggestions on the internet was that the ABS pump needs to be changed and the cost is around £1000. However a friend of mine diagnosed the fault as follows using diagnostic equipment: 1) ECU does not know/is not allerted when the brakes are applied He suggested putting a new brake switch 2) Left speed sensor giving innacurate data. He suggested a good clean of the sensor but mainly the area around the sensor. After cleaning the area around the sensor, the ABS/ESP lights remained on. However upon fitting a new switch all lights on the dash board was off and the car is fine. My mate mentioned that people are too quick to start changing parts on a car when the actual problem is a very simple one. A new sensor if I had changed would have cost me £110!! Hope this helps
It varies the valve timing on an internal combustion engine to allow it to run more efficiently.
Yes, but only if the engine has sequential fuel injection.
Look at the wiring diagram for the injection system.
If the engine computer (ECU, ECM) controls both the positive
and the ground side of the injectors, then it's sequential.
If the engine computer only controls one wire of each injector,
it is "bank fired", meaning a group of injectors (all of them for a 4 cylinder)
fire at the same time, and the fuel mist sits above the intake valves
for a short time before they open.
If the engine has throttle body injection (TBI, DPFI, etc. 1 or 2 injectors sit away from the engine where a carburetor would) then the injector(s) usually fire when the #1 spark plug does, and you can see the fuel spray with a timing light.
it should be right below the steering wheel