Air-Cooled VW

You can't do it, unless you want to pull the engine and split the case. The puller is the only way to grab the drive pinion.

The engine needs fuel, compression and spark to run, you are missing one of those.

Yes, I could Put a Subaru motor in a bug, sounds like fun. I'm guessing, though, that YOU, probably, shouldn't attempt it, unless you have a lot of experience, in automotive fabrication, and general auto performance.

I've put all kins of motors in all kinds of cars, Plasma Cutters, and MiG Welders come in rely handy.

Perhaps you are reading more into your friendship than there is. Men and women can be great friends and have the time of their lives together, but it doesn't mean they are in love with each other. If you see signs this person cares more for you than just a friend, then sit down and discuss your feelings with him and perhaps suggest trying dating. He's either going to say no, and then you are going to know there is nothing more than friendship or he may say yes and you can take it from there. If neither of you speak about this the friendship is going to get complicated. Good luck Marcy

No, it is not hard to change a starter on a 2001 VW Passat. However, one should use caution when working on any component of a cars electrical system and also have all necessary tools and parts on hand to make the repair easier.

Looking forward from the rear of the car, Right Front is 1, Right Rear is 2, left Front 3, left rear is 4.

To install rear 3 point seat belts in a VW Camper, remove the existing seat belt to be replaced, including the long side of harness on the outboard side. Insert the hex bolt of the 3 point seat belt into the inboard side and short side.

Open the engine cover. You will see the fan belt. The thing bolted to the top pulley is the alternator, and it's sitting on the alternator stand. There's a spout coming up from the left side of the alternator stand, and it's got a screw-in cap normally with a hose coming out of it that runs up to the air filter. That spout is where the oil goes.

You'd need an alcohol-rated carb, alcohol-rated fuel lines, an alcohol fuel filter, and a LOT of patience because while E85 sells for less money per gallon, you're going to burn more of it to get the same power. So you have to mess with the carb settings to get the engine to run right. I don't think you'll like it.

Leave the cap off of the overflow tank. With the heat on highest heat setting (to bleed the heater core) start the engine and add coolant as needed. you may have to repeat the process several times to burp all of the air out.

Take out the idle jet on the side of the carby and give it a good blow out. If this fails clean out carby. Another quick fix that sometimes works, take off aircleaner rev motor hard and put your hand over the top of carby. Your hand will be sucked down and this will usually dislodge any blockage in carby. Remove your hand before motor stalls!

Your ignition timing is WAY off.

Impact driver and lots of rust penetrant.

That Bosch distributor is one thing that scarcely changed from one year to the next. As I recall, you can even find that same distributor on the Volvo 122s.

BTW, if you can find a scrap 122s, grab the tie rod because it will allow you to replace your tie rod ends on your VW. Same size, same length, but the tie rod ends are screw-on rather than swaged.

If it won't crank, which is probably what you really have going on, it means your battery went bad while you were driving.

that means it is (or was originally!) a 1200cc engine produced from august 1965. the D denotes that, the rest of the number is your serial number.

If you want to drive it in Mexico, yes.

There used to be a company called Beetlemex. They went out of business many years ago, but what Beetlemex did was to take a Bug that had been registered in the US, drive it to Mexico and take it apart. They would take the chassis, rebuild it to be like new, then put all the parts off a Mexican Beetle on it. They'd then install the two number plates from the old body onto the new one and bring the car back to the US. I wouldn't recommend it unless you live very close to Mexico, because you'll need to go there to get some of the parts you'll need.

You do it when you're building the engine. You can do it without any visual aids, but it's easiest to do this if you buy a bottle of model paint.

The cam timing system on an aircooled VW engine has a fairly small gear on the crankshaft, and a large one on the camshaft. The gear on the cam has a dot ground into one tooth; the gear on the crank has a dot on two adjacent teeth. You paint the teeth to make it easier to pick them out because those dots aren't very large at all. But whether you do or not, lay a case half on the table with the side the crank goes in facing up and install the crank and cam bearing shells in the case. Set the crank into them, and rotate it until you can see the two teeth on the crank gear. Mesh the cam gear with the crank gear so the dot on the cam gear is between the two dots on the crank gear. Roll the cam down into its bearings. (You DID put some assembly lube on them, right?) Now rotate the crank a few revolutions while watching the gears. If the dotted tooth on the cam gear always winds up right between the dotted teeth on the crank gear, you've done it right.

You will need an adapter kit from Kennedy Engineered Products, a radiator (which I would put in the front of the car), airflow to and from the radiator (louvers?), a welder so you can make engine mounts according to the plans in the Kennedy kit, and the rest of the Subaru if this engine is fuel injected so you can recover the wiring harness and fuel injection control box...if you have lots of tools and are good at fabricating things from scratch or have lots and lots of money to hire skills you don't have, the engine will fit in the car.

I'd at least have it checked, just to be sure everything's fine

There WAS, but it hasn't been made in over 20 years. There might be a Chinese copy out there but it isn't as good. There are many aftermarket shifters still available for the old VW's , I recommend the Bugpack shifters as a good inexpensive alternative.

Bosch AL-82.

It depends on how old the car is.

Campers before 1972 had Bug engines in them. You change belts on them by first rotating the engine, with a 30mm socket on the crank pulley bolt, until the cutout in the back half of the pulley is visible. Then you stick a big screwdriver in the cutout, remove the nut holding the pulley on with a 21mm socket, take off the front half of the pulley, remove the old belt and put on the new, and then it starts to get weird: you adjust the tension by putting in or taking out the shims between the pulley halves. You want 12mm free play in the belt, and it takes usually about three or four times to get it right. But right you must, since this is how your engine is cooled.

Campers 1972 and on had Type 4 engines in them. You change their belts by removing two covers, loosening some bolts - LOOSEN!!! not REMOVE!!! - then push the alternator left to remove the belt and right to tighten it up again. On this engine the belt tightness is important to keep your battery from dying, but VW bolted the fan to the end of the crankshaft so the belt no longer cools the engine.

It could be anything from 1970 to the end of production. That case number is the VW part number for a dual pressure relief engine case, and any VW engine with a dual-relief case (on the bottom of the case are these things that look like flat-tip screws with heads an inch and a half in diameter; if you unscrew one you will find a strong spring pressing up against a metal slug. If your oil pressure gets too high, the metal slug will compress the spring and allow the oil pressure to fall. If you have one screw you have a single-relief case; two screws for dual relief.) has a case with that part number.

Not that big! Explains the popularity of the roof racks.