Alternators

how to remove alternaton in 2004 kia spectra 2.0 liter

loosen the serpretine belt tension and remove the two bolt that hold the alternator

I have an 89 Ford Probe. I recently had to replace the alternator. The manual says to drop the exhuast, but I could not do that because of rust etc. I ended up removing both stabilizer bar ends, then rotationg the stabilizer bar out of the way to just barely sneak the alternator through. You will probably have to replace the stabilizer bar ends, they rust quickly and will probably break when you attempt to remove them, but they are cheap. Good luck! NO! there is a easier way take off the driver side front wheel and take the pin out of the stearing arm and move it to the side. Then You will have to take off the plastic wheel well. The alternator will look like it will not fit but it will just move it around until you get it out but be carefull make sure you tighten the nut to the stearing arm back on very tight and put the pin back in it. That is how I did it. No droping the exaust or motor mounts. Took me about half hour to do it. Good Luck

I just spent the last six months with the same problem on my '99 Durango. Eventually, I couldn't get my truck started at all. I just put a new starter in, all problems solved!

The rotor button inside the distributor could also be bad since the car wont start until the rotor button can get a spark to the distributor. Because it wont start in the morning tells me that this is more likely to be your problem. Condensation may be getting inside the distributor and causing the rotor button to get wet not allowing a spark to start the vehicle in the morning and when the sun is out it drys. This is a cheap fix and you can do it yourself. I would replace both distributor and the rotor button. Remove the distributor wires one at a time taking one off the old and place it on the new, this way you wont mix anything up. the distributor is held on by two screws that don't come all the way out just far enough to release the distributor. The rotor will be the next thing you see under the cap held on by probably one Allen screw. Always have the new next to the old and place it in the same way you took it out. Very inexpensive and much cheaper than starter replacement. I would do this first. They may tell you they replaced the starter when they actually only changed your rotor and distributor. Always ask for the old part back and look to see if the part was actually changed or bad. Hope this help.

Remove the Negative terminal. loosen all belts as well as the tensioner bracket first then unplug the connector (+), then remove the remaining 4 bolts.

Try disconnecting the negative terminal while the engine is on, if the car dies it is your alternator.

-remove turbo piping over engine (if applicable).

-remove cold air intake pipe (connected to air filter box).

-remove auxiliary belt.

-remove wire harnesses and coolant expansion hose from top of auxiliary fan.

-remove 2 bolts at the top holding auxiliary fan in place.

-remove auxiliary fan (disconnect wiring connectors as necessary).

-loosen two bottom bolts on A/C compressor.

-remove two top bolts on A/C compressor (also holding the bottom of the alternator).

-remove one top bolt on the alternator (beneath the power steering pump pulley).

-pull alternator toward front of vehicle and and out.

The rotor is a electro magnet with a North and South pole at ether end the ends have fingers that wrap around the centre coil of wire alternating North and South magnetic polarity fields. The more current supplied to the rotor the stronger the magnetic field, the more current produced in the stator and the higher the output amperage supplied to the electrical system

To protect voltage sensitive components of an electrical circuit.

A few symptoms and obvious signs of a bad alternator are the battery not charging, dim lights, and a warning light.

The voltage regulator has the job of making the voltage 'constant'. In most modern vehicles the regulator is located in the alternator, in older models the regulator is located separate. If your voltage is jumping around a lot then you either have a problem with the battery (batteries stabilize the voltage also)or the charging system (and probably the voltage regulator)

Please give us the year, make and model vehicle to help us help you.

There is not a multiple-choice on picking an alternator for a vehicle.

Each vehicle will have one, possibly a second upgraded offering, each.

Your auto parts people will let you know...

The alternator either has to be a factory original or a used off of a parts Rodeo,otherwise the alternator will not run.

Start with taking off the serpentine belt. The tension bult is on the front/passenger side of the engine compartment. Locate the top pulley and go down. Take a pic of how the belt is on, remove it and the you have access to the alternator belt. Loosen it's tension bolt and you're in buisness.

Yes. The parts don't care where there made. The specifications are the same from anyone. The only difference is the -quality- of the parts. Just make sure they are the right ones for the year car and double check the month the car was made also because some times they would make a mid year change in some of the parts.

Because of the potentially severe hazards due to improper use of battery cables and automotive batteries, this answer will be comprehensive, not just for the removal of the cables. First, auto batteries contain Sulphuric Acid which can blind you, or burn your skin off. Second, auto batteries create and vent off Hydrogen gas which is highly explosive, and which can be ignited by even the smallest spark. Because of this it is very important to attach and remove jumper cables in a precise sequence which follows: 1. Locate the vehicle with the good battery close enough for the jumper cables to reach, but do NOT ALLOW the vehicles to be in contact with each other. Be careful to route the jumper cables so as to avoid any possible contact with the moving parts [fan blades, moving belts, etc.] of either vehicle, and you be careful to keep your body parts and clothing well clear also. 2. Securely attach one of the jumper cable's positive cable clamps [red] to the "good" battery's positive terminal [marked with a plus symbol [+] or the letters POS [for positive] embossed in raised letters next to the positive terminal. The negative terminal will be identified with a minus [-] symbol next to it. 3. Securely attach the other end of the positive cable to the positiveterminal [+] of the "dead" battery. 4. Securely attach one of the negative jumper cable clamps [black] to the negative terminal [-] of the "good" battery. 5. Securely attach the other negative jumper cable clamp to a heavy metal grounded part of the engine [NOT to the negative terminal of the "dead" battery!!!] This final connection could create a spark, and you do not want that spark to be right at either of the batteries where it could ignite Hydrogen gas. 6. IF the engine of the vehicle with the good battery was not left running, start the engine of vehicle with the good battery. The good battery and the alternator of the running engine will now be charging the bad battery. 7. Allow the bad battery to charge for at least 2 or 3 minutes, and then start the engine with the bad battery. 8. While leaving the engine with the bad battery running, remove the jumper cables in the exact OPPOSITE order of installation, again being very careful to stay clear of the fan blades and belts of the running engines.

The alternator is located right below the Belt Tensioner (of course you ill need to know where that is as well). However, its on the passenger side, at the most rear, and most lower point of the engine. I had to jack up the car, take off y wheel, and you can see it just past the wheel. It's very tricky to maneuver it out once you get the two bolts out to remove it. Have fun!!!!!

Open your hood and look at the front of your engine. There is a pulley connected to your power steering pump on the right side of your engine. It has hoses coming out of it. If you look below it your alternator should be there. It has a smaller pulley connected to it.

Hey Melissa==First remove the neg battery cable then the serpentine belt then the wiring for the altermator then the 2 bolts that hold it on. Make sure you have a schematic for the belt before you take it off. It should be on the fan shroud. If it isn't there, draw a schematic for yourself. Don't rely on memory. GoodluckJOE

On the bottom of the engine near the passanger firewall there are two air conditioning lines blocking your way (close to the axel), unscrew the holder and move the lines out of the way (carefully) and you should be able to remove the alternatior without issue.

Most likely a bad voltage regulator--on any vehicle. The regulator is supposed to control alternator field current for a charging voltage of 14.5 volts more or less, and may have up to 16 volts. More than 16 volts is hazardous to the electrical system (viz boiling the battery dry or burning out other components). (A fully charged 12-volt battery should show 12.6 volts at rest, the charging voltage with engine running is higher in order to push electrons back into the battery against that.)

Unfortunately, voltage regulators are virtually never owner-fixable (epoxy-encapsulated invisible mystery circuit board with no adjustments!) except to replace with a new one. The only good news is that they sell for around $10, compared to an alternator at about $200!

To remove it from the car, if you have a 2.0L engine, one must actually remove the front exhaust pipe.

With a 2.2L engine one must remove the right halfshaft between the wheel and the transmission. This is a very involved procedure and the one in all the service manuals. If you want to save yourself some labor, remove the driver's side wheel, the bolt and sleeve on the sway bar that connects it to the lower A arm, and the castle nut holding the steering arm ball joint to the hub. Remove the lower splash guard. Pop the ball joint upward, separating the tie rod end from the hub, and swing the steering arm away. Unbolt and free the alternator from above. Lower it onto the half-shaft from above. From below, turn the alternator around and wiggle it through the opening in the wheel well. You will need to pull down on the sway bar at one point to get enough clearance. It WILL come out this way. Reverse the procedure to replace the alternator. Make sure you put the cotter pin back on the castle nut, and the castle nut is tight when you're done.

With a 3.0L engine one must remove the windshield washer reservoir, the power steering pump hoses and various support brackets.

Several hours are required for any of these procedures.

Depending on what model and motor you 1995 Ford Taurus has it can run $125.00 to $300. The price variance is due to the fact that alternators can be purchased brand new or remanufactured. I would suggest that you purchase a remanufactured model to save money. If you need this alternator installed by a service professional you should expect at least 2 hours of labor at an average of $60 per hour plus the cost of the alternator. Good luck!

Just like anything else things just break. Have you had any electric welding done on the car? Have you used an external battery charger? Have you accidently connected the battery in reverse polarity?