Alternators

Because battery was disconnected.

Im not an expert but most keys systems work by the car and key in synchronization. The norm to calibrate is to insert key into the ignition, switch on ignition and hold the lock key for 10 seconds give or take (Could be 15 or something). You may need to hold the blipper when turning ignition.

about the only way to know for sure is to take a sample and use your senses, sight and smell, please dont taste. (LOL) But if you still dont know, you may be able to take the sample to your local department of agriculture. Most states will test the fuel for free. They cannot check for stuff like sugar, if you think you've been sabotaged, but they can check for octane content, water contamination, and if the fuel is too old to run in the car. Unless your from Pennsylvania. They do not monitor fuel quality only quantity. Of course if your from one of the 47 states that do have a fuel quality program, you could ask them to test it. My car wouldn't start one hour after I got gas. It will crank but not turn over - iss this bad gas?

Begin by loosen the tensioner bolt. Slide the alternator to the left and remove the belt. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts.

If there is clicking, that means the car has power from the battery so the altenator and the battery are good. I would suggest that the starter is gone bad. It will eventually grind away to where there is no clicking.

The Battery is dead... same thing happend to me... the only thing keeping your car going is the Alternator trying to charge everything... my car did that, ran every bit of 5 mins then shut down cause the battery barely could handle it, then jumped it again and kept foot on gas and it stayed running, turn car off then car died and wouldn't start again unless i jumped it.

you have a dead short in the wireing.

No, it has to fit and be able to mount. The pulley must be the same and the wiring connections must be the same. Purchase an exact replacement.

less than half an inch along the longest stretch

yes mine did!

Yes, it can over or undercharge the battery. If i is overcharging it can ruin the battery. If it is under charging the battery will just run down. Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. You should read around 13.5 to 15.5 volts.

Buy a replacement car!

The alternator must be running to test without disassembly. If you remove it, many auto part stores will test at no charge.

One test is a voltage test. Start the engine and use a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery. It should read between 13.5 and 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is bad.

Regulation of rated voltage ensures sensitive components are not exposed to more voltage than they can handle and prevents costly part burnouts usually using mechanical or solid state circuit interrupters designed to trip at anything over the rated alternator or generator output.

Most also have an amperage regulator that works much like voltage regulators. These prevent excessive heat in wires not rated for higher amperage, which prevents many burnouts and fires.

If the generator or alternator outputs too much voltage or amperage it can destroy complex, expensive, and sensitive components or equipment, or cause electrical shocks, melted insulation, and fires. These problems are easily solved by relatively cheap, simple, and reliable but tightly regulated components.

An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to alternating currant electrical energy.

The D indicates the discharge side of the guage, and when the indicator needle is located anywhere in this area indicates that the alternator is not creating enough current to charge the battery, and therefore, the battery is being discharged. The C indicates the charge side of the guage, and when the needle is in this area, it means the alternator is putting out enough current to charge the battery. A needle right in the center indicates that the current going into the battery equals the amount of current being taken from the battery by your vehicle's electrical devices. The closer to the center, the lower the amount of current is flowing, and conversly, the farther to the edge [closer to the D or C] the greater the amount of current flowing, whether it's a charging flow, or a discharging flow. Therefore, when the battery is being charged, the needle should be somewhere between the center [no flow] and the C.The closer to the C, the greater the rate of charge to the battery.

The approximate cost of replacing an alternator on a 1996 Toyota Avalon depends on whether you do it yourself or have a shop replace it. The alternator costs around $125 and it would take about two hours of labor for a total of approximately $300 if a shop did it.

Generally, synchronization refers to matching three parameters between an incoming Alternator and the existing busbar before connecting to the actual load. They are 1. Magnitude of voltage 2. Frequency 3. Phase sequence The voltage in the alterenator is matched by varying the excitation. The frequency is matched by varying the speed of the alternator by its prime-mover. The phase-sequence is matched by flipping any of the two phases if mis-matched. This can be achieved and ensured either by "Three dark lamps method" or using a synchonoscope.

Either the life of the vehicle, or 100,000 - 200,000 miles. However mine has gone at 3,000, which is why I am embroiled in a dispute over the £400 cost from a Ford Main Stealer!

Generally, no. If you ran the car after the alternator died (which runs down the battery), you may need to trickle-charge the battery for a half-hour or so to bring it back up to a full charge, but most of the time the battery will not need to be replaced.

There are two bolts on the alternator one long that holds the alternator onto the vehicle and one short that adjusts the belts to tighten and loosen. Loosen both bolts, this allows the alternator to tilt letting you remove belt. Pull it back into place and tighten. Let it run for at least 15 min and recheck slack in belt.

If this is a serpentine belt; Loosen the tension on the belt tensioner, pull off old belt, put on new belt, leave slack at tensioner, pull back tensioner, wrap belt on tensioner, release pressure

On most alternators there is an adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt , both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the alternator , After the two bolts have been loosened , move the alternator ( toward the engine to loosen the belt ) (away from engine to tighten the belt ) You might have to move other belt driven components in the same manner as for the alternator Install belts adjust tension on belts ( It will often be necessary to use some sort of prybar to move the components while the belt is adjusted ,If this must be done to gain the proper leverage , be careful not to damage the components being moved or the part being pried against . ) Belt tension of each belt is checked by pushing on the belt at a distance halfway between the pulleys ( push firmly with your thumb and see how much the belt deflects ) A rule of thumb is that if the distance from pulley centre is between 7 and 11 inches the belt should deflect 1/4 inch , 12 to 16 inches 1/2 inch . A serentine belt ( the tension is controled by a tensioner ( loosen tensioner replace belt ) For better installation instructions go to the libary and check out a book or buy a Haynes Repair Manual for your make , year of car hoped this help you out

If you have only one external belt on your car, it's probably a serpentine belt. There will be a tensioner that needs to be released using a breaker bar or some other tool. With the pressure released it should just slide off... make sure you remember how it went on - maybe take a picture. Now if it's more than one belt you've got... usually there's a way to move a component driven by the belt. Usually the alternator itself swings a bit if loosened to slack the belt. Note: It's recommended to replace the tensioner either at the belt change, or 60k or so.

This really depends on what you are changing it on but i bet there is some sort of a tensioner that you have to relieve pressure and reroute the belt the way it came out and release the tension back on the belt

This really depends on what you are changing it on but i bet there is some sort of a tensioner that you have to relieve pressure and reroute the belt the way it came out and release the tension back on the belt

Disconnect the 98 LeSabre battery. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator wiring. unbolt the alternator, remove it, and bolt the new one on. Reconnect the wiring, but the belt on, then reconnect the battery.

There are 2 sensors. The front sensor is located on exhaust manifold.Its electrical connector is located to the left of the cylinder head, above the transaxie.

In a 2003 it's located on the passenger side just above and slightly to the rear of the axle.

you need to loosen the pulley itself so that it can work it's way down to the bracket. it has to be a 17mm socket, and unless someone put a different bolt on the pulley. 17mm should be your number. maybe try cleaning the bolt ahead