Alternators

in the fuse panel under the dash. its number 15

2005 mazda 6 how to replace the alternator

You have to find the alternator then look at where it is connected to the motor there will be a slide mechanism that you will have to loosen which will release the slack on the belt so you can get it off.

The regulator isn't regulating properly.

just replaced my alternator on my 54 plate ford focus cost me 15 gbp used these can also be located on ebay for as little as 17.99 gbp

Material and labor... about $400.

This one is fun (yes, I'm being sarchastic). The easiest way is to remove the splash panel from the bottom and work from underneath. Otherwise, you have to pull the air induction system, battery, fan blades, and fan shroud. Remove the belts, beginning with the power steering unit. My J30t was a mother to loosen enough to get the belt off. When I put it back together and started the engine, I noticed that the power steering hose was leaking. To make matters worse, it locked me out of the car! I was able to pick the lock and get it turned off before it fried the pump. You might want to use a helper or roll all of your windows down for that trick. After the power steering hose is off, you can go after the A/C belt by loosening the idler pulley. Now the alternator is yours for the taking. Have fun. Steven

The placement of the voltage regulator depends on the year of the Tercel. Some are mounted on the fender or firewall, most are an integral part of the alternator and cannot be replaced separately.

The Mazda MPV service repair manual for 2000-2001 can be downloaded from a website called 2 Shared. Another site that has it is 4 Shared.

The timing may be off. If the timing belt is old then the gears can slip and cause backfiring, or the engine to not run at all.

ALternator fuses, if equipped may be on the battery post, in a fuse box, or in the wire going from the battery to the alternator.

That depends on the application [use] of the alternator. For automotive applications, NO, 15 Volts DC is not too much. Generally, an acceptable voltage output range for automotive applications is 13 Volts minimum to 16 volts maximum.

Yes, it will overheat.

If the alternator belt is the same belt as the other accessories, yes.

Worn, loose, or dry rotted. They just break with age.

start your own car like it was a regular old day. while the car is still on disconnect the car battery and remove it, get a pair of jumper cables connect them each end to the battery wires (positive to positive and negative to negative). get your hydraulic battery you gotta put it on something other then the ground. connect the other end of the jumper cables to the battery and charge its that easy. if you don't get how i just explained it sorry.

on my 1996 mazda, i had to jack up the car and remove the right front wheel to get to the bottom through-bolt holding the alternator. the 2 tension adjustment bolts are accessed from the top. I also removed the splash shield for access to the belt. Since the alternator belt is inboard of the power steering belt, you also have to loosen this belt. it's me ...reysher

DO NOT LISTEN TO PEOPLE WHO BLINDLY TELL YOU TO CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES FOR 8 OR 10 HOURS OR OVERNIGHT! THEY ARE WRONG AND UNINFORMED!

BATTERIES VARY GREATLY DEPENDING ON A LOT OF FACTORS!! MAKE SURE THAT YOU PLUG EACH BATTERY/CHARGER COMBO INTO THIS EQUATION SO THAT YOU CAN MAKE SURE YOU DON'T OVERCHARGE YOUR BATTERY!!

To figure out how long to charge your battery for:

(battery capacity (battery's mAh rating)/charger output (mA)) x 1.4(for NiCad batteries, 1.5 for NiMh batteries) = time (in hours).

For example:

I have an 1100 mAh battery and a charger which outputs at 180mA (it should be written somewhere on the charger - Output= (X) mA - or something like that). It's a NiMh battery so you multiply by 1.5.

(1100/180) x 1.5 = 9.146666 hours

Note that the result in decimal, so 9.15 hours is NOT 9 hours and 15 minutes! 0.15 of an hour is approximately one sixth of an hour or ten minutes.

Therefore 9.15 hours = 9 hours and 10 mins approximately.

Please share this correct information to everyone you can. I have looked on many websites and this information isn't available. Most people just give the regular ignorant blind answer.

Thank you for sharing this and for doing your part to educate those out there that love RC/Airsoft/etc... as much as I do!

You can begin by removing the wiring harness from the back of your 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan alternator. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the retaining nuts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.

A bad connection in the wiring. It can be anywhere in the vehicle's wiring, plugs and sockets etc. And even a relay contact. What ever it is will be hot or extra warm to touch because bad connections with that kind of current cause resistance heating. Look for burnt looking connection on plugs. sockets, bottom of all relays xontacts. Put some wd40 on all electrical connections including the blplattery posts lol

Go to http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=45

Main steps:

* Unplug battery neg. terminal * Loosen alternator bolts, lower one (main) and the 2 for the tensioner * Remove the belt * Remove the wires to the alternator * Remove the bolts and take the alternator off * Put the new one, secure with main bolt and tensioner * put belt back and and tension it, tightening bolts

* Connect wires back

It will take about 1 or 2 hrs.

raise hood and then jerk out your pistol ,take a general aim and then calmly empty the clip into that piece of turd. i have one myself and all i do is work on the junky motherflipper. so when you get started put one in the prick from me.

With the engine running check the voltage at the battery with a DC volt meter. It should read from 13.5 to 15.5 volts if the alternator is good. Or, you can drive it to your nearest auto parts store where most will check the charging system for free.

Battery cables corroded, alternator is defective, or the battery has a dead cell and needs replacing. Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be 13.5-16 volts. Any less and the alternator is defective. Also make sure the alternator belt is not loose.

All of those things are okay. The new alternator puts out the proper voltage, except when the new battery is hooked up to it. Then the alternator drops 4 volt output and the battery gets drainged. I have tried three new altenators and the battery chcks out. No wiring issues. What is causing this.

These kinds of problems is excessive resistance in the high amperage circuit. Loose, corroded or damaged battery cables or ground straps can choke off the normal flow of current in these circuits. And if the current can't get through, the starter won't have the muscle to crank the engine and the battery won't receive the amperage it needs to maintain a full charge. Nasty looking battery terminals that are blooming with corrosion obviously need cleaning. But many times corrosion forms an almost invisible paper-thin barrier between the battery terminals and cables. To the naked eye, the terminals and cables look fine. But high resistance in the connections is preventing the high amp current from getting through.

The same goes for battery cables with ends that have been beaten or pried out of shape, or have had the ends replaced. If the clamp isn't making good contact with the battery terminal all the way around as well as its own cable, the cable may have too much resistance and restrict the flow of current. The same goes for ground straps that have loose or corroded end terminals, or make poor contact with the engine or body.

Cranking problems can also be caused by undersized replacement battery cables. A wire's ability to pass current depends on the gauge size of the wire. The fatter the wire, the more current it can safely handle. Some cheap replacement battery cables use smaller gauge wire, which may be camouflaged with thicker insulation to make it appear to be the same size as the original cable. But the cable doesn't have the capacity to handle the current. It doesn't take much of an increase in resistance to cause trouble. Let's say a 120 amp alternator operates in a circuit that has a normal resistance of 0.11 ohms. If that resistance were increased to 0.17 ohms because of a bad wiring connection, the alternator's maximum output would be limited to 80 amps. In other words, an increase of only 0.06 ohms (almost nothing!) would reduce the alternator's maximum output by almost a third! Under light load, the drop in charging output might not even be noticeable. But in a high load situation, the alternator wouldn't be able to keep up. If you use an ohmmeter to measure across a heavily corroded battery cable or ground strap connection, or one with only a few strands of wire that make contact with the end clamp or terminal, the connection may read good because all you're measuring is continuity -- not the ability to handle a high amp current load. The connection may pass a small current, but when a heavy load is applied there may not be enough contact to pass the extra current.

So how do you find these kinds of problems? You do a voltage drop test. A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one.

To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading. If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair. To check the alternator connections on the positive side for excessive resistance:

A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.

B. Connect the meter positive lead to the alternator output stud (B+ terminal).

C. Connect the meter negative lead to the positive (+) battery post.

D. With the engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except the rear electric defroster), check the voltage drop reading. It should be 0.5 volts or less. If higher, the connections between the alternator output stud and battery need to be cleaned. Also, look for loose connections or undersized cables.

To check the alternator connections on the negative side for excessive resistance:

A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.

B. Connect meter negative lead to alternator case.

C. Connect meter positive lead to battery negative (-) post.

D. With engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except rear defogger), check the voltage drop reading. On the negative side, it should be 0.2 volts or less. If excessive, the connections need cleaning or the negative cable needs to be replaced. Some alternators are mounted in rubber bushings and have a separate ground strap. If so equipped, be sure to check the voltage drop across this strap, too. This car is 16 years old and I would suspect you need to just replace both battery cables. This will more than likely solve your problem. Be sure and check the ground strap too.

THANKS!