Alternators

raise hood and then jerk out your pistol ,take a general aim and then calmly empty the clip into that piece of turd. i have one myself and all i do is work on the junky motherflipper. so when you get started put one in the prick from me.

With the engine running check the voltage at the battery with a DC volt meter. It should read from 13.5 to 15.5 volts if the alternator is good. Or, you can drive it to your nearest auto parts store where most will check the charging system for free.

Battery cables corroded, alternator is defective, or the battery has a dead cell and needs replacing. Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be 13.5-16 volts. Any less and the alternator is defective. Also make sure the alternator belt is not loose.

All of those things are okay. The new alternator puts out the proper voltage, except when the new battery is hooked up to it. Then the alternator drops 4 volt output and the battery gets drainged. I have tried three new altenators and the battery chcks out. No wiring issues. What is causing this.

These kinds of problems is excessive resistance in the high amperage circuit. Loose, corroded or damaged battery cables or ground straps can choke off the normal flow of current in these circuits. And if the current can't get through, the starter won't have the muscle to crank the engine and the battery won't receive the amperage it needs to maintain a full charge. Nasty looking battery terminals that are blooming with corrosion obviously need cleaning. But many times corrosion forms an almost invisible paper-thin barrier between the battery terminals and cables. To the naked eye, the terminals and cables look fine. But high resistance in the connections is preventing the high amp current from getting through.

The same goes for battery cables with ends that have been beaten or pried out of shape, or have had the ends replaced. If the clamp isn't making good contact with the battery terminal all the way around as well as its own cable, the cable may have too much resistance and restrict the flow of current. The same goes for ground straps that have loose or corroded end terminals, or make poor contact with the engine or body.

Cranking problems can also be caused by undersized replacement battery cables. A wire's ability to pass current depends on the gauge size of the wire. The fatter the wire, the more current it can safely handle. Some cheap replacement battery cables use smaller gauge wire, which may be camouflaged with thicker insulation to make it appear to be the same size as the original cable. But the cable doesn't have the capacity to handle the current. It doesn't take much of an increase in resistance to cause trouble. Let's say a 120 amp alternator operates in a circuit that has a normal resistance of 0.11 ohms. If that resistance were increased to 0.17 ohms because of a bad wiring connection, the alternator's maximum output would be limited to 80 amps. In other words, an increase of only 0.06 ohms (almost nothing!) would reduce the alternator's maximum output by almost a third! Under light load, the drop in charging output might not even be noticeable. But in a high load situation, the alternator wouldn't be able to keep up. If you use an ohmmeter to measure across a heavily corroded battery cable or ground strap connection, or one with only a few strands of wire that make contact with the end clamp or terminal, the connection may read good because all you're measuring is continuity -- not the ability to handle a high amp current load. The connection may pass a small current, but when a heavy load is applied there may not be enough contact to pass the extra current.

So how do you find these kinds of problems? You do a voltage drop test. A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one.

To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading. If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair. To check the alternator connections on the positive side for excessive resistance:

A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.

B. Connect the meter positive lead to the alternator output stud (B+ terminal).

C. Connect the meter negative lead to the positive (+) battery post.

D. With the engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except the rear electric defroster), check the voltage drop reading. It should be 0.5 volts or less. If higher, the connections between the alternator output stud and battery need to be cleaned. Also, look for loose connections or undersized cables.

To check the alternator connections on the negative side for excessive resistance:

A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.

B. Connect meter negative lead to alternator case.

C. Connect meter positive lead to battery negative (-) post.

D. With engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except rear defogger), check the voltage drop reading. On the negative side, it should be 0.2 volts or less. If excessive, the connections need cleaning or the negative cable needs to be replaced. Some alternators are mounted in rubber bushings and have a separate ground strap. If so equipped, be sure to check the voltage drop across this strap, too. This car is 16 years old and I would suspect you need to just replace both battery cables. This will more than likely solve your problem. Be sure and check the ground strap too.

THANKS!

Yes, of course it can be rebuilt if you know how. My advice is to just buy one that has already been rebuilt at the factory. You save very little doing it yourself.

The battery could have been damaged, wet, or short-circuted.

What bolts to loosen to put alernator belt on and how to put it on when a/c belt is on.

The brushes on an alternator carry current.

Autozone has hen for 250.

Not sure if that is the diretion you want to go. I have a bad one and am shopping it around for someone to rebuild them instead.

No! A car backfires because unburned fuel is getting to the muffler. The heat of the exhause system causes the fuel to combust, thus a backfire. A bad alternator will just not charge your car battery.

If you have an owner's manual, check to see if the light needs to be reset . Some vehicles have indicators that need to be reset after services are completed.

It might be a little painful, but if it's your left leg that's broken you probably can drive an automobile with an automatic transmission.

It's right in the front and off a little to the passenger side. Big round thing with a belt running to it and a fan. You can't miss it.

I will be honest I am not fluent with the yr model however the electrical voltage and wiring and charging and output I am!I would try by cleaning the ground wire from the battery to each point it connects.I would also take a meter to check with the truck (key off) and check for a parasitic draw.That means like is your dome light staying on,or if the radio is aftermarket version may be draining the battery as well.If the terminals or rather the metal connectors on the battery positive,and the alternator connectors are clean,no corrosion would reduce the charging of the battery.It would only seem to me it is a bad ground overall,And would remove the each connection for the ground cable from the battery to each point clean it with a wire brush,and tighten.Unless something electrical such as the radio head unit (aftermarket versions) is drawing amps and draining the system,or this model has something else that draws current dome lamps,door switch not all the way in but pulls enuff to drain it down I do not know.Being you changed the two items would point to bad ground connections,or a parasite draw over time draining the system in most cases or even a weak battery cable,alternator wire or wires.Hope this helps.

13 .5v

no ans.. lot of causes regarding the problem

I did this a couple of years ago, I ended up removing the radiator. It's annoying but life will be better if you do. 324,000 miles and still going!

the 20 amp alternator field minifuse is loosley connected below the lower 175 amp alternator megafuse on the firewall next to the battery.

I just replaced the alternator on my Dynasty... hopefully I can be of some help. First of all, disconnect one of the battery connections. Next, you will need to take off the serpentine belt. To do that, I put a box wrench on the bolt that is on the center of the tensioner pulley and push the end of the wrench with a long 1 X 4 piece of wood...The area around that bolt is very crowded so you will need something thin to fit in. Anyways, the idea is to push back on the wrench so it removes tension off of the belt. Keep it pushed back until you (or someone else) can slip the belt off of a pulley. I usually don't take the serpentine belt off of every pulley ... I just want slack so I can get the alternator off. It's easier to put back on if you can leave the belt mostly in place. Next, remove the wiring connections/harness from the alternator. Move the harness off to the side where it is out of the way. There are two bolts that hold the alternator in place. The top one is easy to remove... the bottom one is trickier. It is a tight spot to get the nut off the front but I had trouble getting the bolt out. On my Dynasty, I had to remove a bracket (engine mount bracket?) before I was able to slide the bolt all the way out... the head of the bolt kept hitting this bracket. Anyways, there are two nuts that hold the bracket in place... take those off to remove the bracket. With the alternator in place, you probably wont be able to see the nut under it... just feel around and remove it with your socket wrench. With the two bolts out you can now remove the old alternator. It's a very tight fit but it can be lifted out of there... you almost need a shoehorn. Ha! Pop the new alternator in, replace bracket, put on wiring connections, put belt back on and then hook up battery. Presto! I hope this info helped. Regards, Gary in Princeton, MN

theres 2 bolts on the alternator 1 of them is to loosen the belt of and the other is to remove the alternator all together i hope that's a helpful answer to your question

Yes they are compatible

A person can get a diagram of this vehicle's alternating and charging system for free by owning the cars maintenance manual. A person can also ask for a print out from a technician at a auto part store.

There is a metal pulley between the alternator and the crankshaft. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley and adjust the tension with the bolt just under the pulley. This is best done from under the automobile.

But.... even though you you do all that, the alternator bolts have to be taken out which you cant cause of the frame of the mini-van you have to loosen the motor mounts and lift up the engine till the alternators bolts are clear from the frame and A/C lines

warning* oil pan is very delicate and you will have to push up the engine to its extremes

That is the wrong way.

The correct way (and this is straight from a KIA dealer tech)

First, set aside between 2 to 3 hours depending on your mechanical ability and tool selection.

1. Unhook the battery terminals.

2. Loosen the idler pulley, remove the belt.

3. Remove the top radiator support metal structure that the hood latch, the horn, etc are attached to.

4. Remove the cooling fan.

5. Loosen the radiator and condenser if a/c equipped.

6. Remove the O2 sensor.

7. You can finally get to the alternator and see that you'll have to slide it out from the front of the engine.

8. Now the bottom bolt is a little too long to remove but it will still allow you to remove the alternator with it out as far as it will go.

9. The alternator also has compressed retainers where the bolts go in to help it to stay in place. Using a small cold chisel or screw driver you can easily push them back in.

10. Remove the alternator, use a piece of cardboard so you don't brush against the radiator.

11. Reinstall new one as removed.

12. Follow mfgrs directions on alternator hookup so as not to void warranty. (you do NOT want to do this again if it fails).

I have personal installed 5 alternator using this method on my own 2002 Sedona. So spend the money and get a good one so you don't have to do it more than once.

passenger side, rear of motor there is a 12mm adjustment bolt on the alternator (top side)

Remove from alternator, not from the block. Directly underneath the alternator there will be a lock bolt (not sure size, either 14 or 15mm).

Remove completely, push alternator toward motor to loosen the belt, pull directly upwards to avoid shock tower. Flip sideways to remove wires.

Make sure to remove negative battery terminal. For easy access to bottom of alternator, jack passenger side as high as possible and be sure to use jack stands so the vehicle does not kill you. If it's not rusted, it should only take about 1/2 hour to remove and replace. should have lots of room in an ES.

the alternator on a 2000 hyundia sonata gls 2.5l v6 without abs

brakes can be removed upward from the engine compartment.

looking down at your bad alternater from above it seems like a tight

spot for it to come out , but it will with some maneuvering and positioning

pop hood

look at your serp belt and remember its routing draw pic if must

undue neg batt

locate automatic tensioner

push down auto tensioner {wheel end} with propper tool. i use socket wrench driver w/o socket

you will feel the spring tension while pushing down use your other hand to remove the belt off alternator pulley once you see the belt is off pulley slowly

let the auto tensioner come back up

disconnect both wires from alternator one is a plug in type connection other

connection you must unscrew nut

now this step makes things just alittle easier

just above your alternator there is this small bracket that

holds a few small wire harnesses in place. undue the bracket has bolt

its just in the way when you go to pull up the alternator through engine

compartment you can try not removing first ,but just be careful not to bang

into the harnesses with the alternator as you soon will pull it up from engine

compartment

locate the two bolts holding on alternator untighten remove

one short bolt on top other towards right bottom

the bottom bolt is a bit longer . it goes through alternator arm

into a pivot sleeve and out the other arm of alternator

the sleeve fits into a groove built onto engine block which

stays put

carefully maneuver alternator up through engine compartment

it,s out!!!!

while alternator is out look down engine compartment where alternator

was. you will easier see the groove on the block that the sleeve rest's on

when you go to drop in the new alternator

to replace the new alternator

place it down from the top of engine compartment

you may want to get the bottom bolt and sleeve partially started

through or just wait til alernator has come to rest at bottom of

compartment then due your bolting and rewireing

after new alternator installed position surp belt back on

makeing sure belt is seated proper in all pulleys

connect neg batt

Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Loosen the serpentine belt - loosen the tensioner.

Disconnect the alternator connections at the terminals.

Slip the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley and pull the alternator out.

Install is reverse.