Alternators

You may need to find a short circuit or a bad relay. Possibly there is moisture somewhere that is jumping a connection. Automotive electrical problems are difficult to track down yourself and expensive to have someone else do it.

Either one are both good parts so it really does not matter. Go with the lowest priced.

There were 31,035,791 motor vehicles on British roads in 2010.

Source: SMMT

Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 1989 Toyota alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Remove the alternator belt. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

Check all the connections. Sometimes the ends of the battery cable are corroded where they connect to the starter and engine. Switch itself could be bad. Try the starter either by shorting across the terminal on the solenoid or run a jumper wire to the solenoid and try starting it several times in a row. If it works that means the starter is probably alright and it is in the wiring somewhere. Try the same thing with the switch. Short across the wires at the switch and if the starter seems to work each time, it may well be the switch. The contacts in the switch may be getting burned and not making good contact.

A fuse in the wire harness? I don't believe I have ever run across a fuse link coming out of the alternator, in either '87 to 91 model. Please correct me if I am wrong someone. If you have a charging problem, check the out put at idle and and say 2000 rpm. I have never run across a fuse link in my Chevy either.

If the battery is less than 2 years but doesn't seem to hold a charge

On a **1986** Toyota Pickup (Hopefully they are similar): Unhook the positive end of your battery from the rest of your truck's electrical with a wrench. Next, there is a plug on the back of the alternator, push in the clip on the side and unplug. Next to the plug us a rubber housing, pull this back and take the screw off, removing the wire cable it was holding. There are now only two bolts holding the alternator. The first one is up top and connects to a rail that guides the alternator left and right (to tighten the alternator belt) unscrew this. Next, remove the trucks skid plate up front, there should be 4 bolts holding it in place. Once this is done, take out the coolant hose (a 1' hose with a slight S-Bend in it, it may take some wiggling to get it off). Next remove the lower bolt from underneath the alternator and pull the alternator out from the bottom. Once you replace the alternator you need to tighten the belt, it needs to be about 80 +/- 20 lbf You may have to take your truck into a local shop to have them tighten the belt for you ($30 labor) if you don't have the right torque equipment.

It is a good habit to always disconnect the negative battery post first when you start the job and reconnect the negative battery post last when done with the job.

The cut out relay is used to energize a fuel pump. It then shuts down, until it gets impulses from the spark plugs.

Take it to Mechanic!

If you can get your vehicle started you can then un hook the battery while it is running and if your vehicle stays running then your alternator is good. If it stalls and dies as soon as you unhook the battery then the alternator is not good.If you can get your vehicle started you can then un hook the battery while it is running and if your vehicle stays running then your alternator is good. If it stalls and dies as soon as you unhook the battery then the alternator is not good.

2001-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Limited, SE, and Laredo, RWD and AWD.

The 2001 Cavalier has the regulator built into the alternator. As this is an integrated component the alternator and regulator are changed as a single unit.

yes if it has a fault. Either a bearing has gone - in which case you should hear a noise. Or the rectifier has a fault (probably a short circuit) in which case things can get very hot and you will see smoke.

No, there is not a fuse on the alternator.

Something is pulling power from the battery when the car is sitting idle. Check under hood, trunk, glove box lights, etc. Also can be a stuck relay. A battery may also appear good and have a dead cell. Have it tested.

Sounds to me like a bad battery- check with a battery tester. The alternator can be tested at a place like Autozone, to tell if it is charging properly. They generally do this test for free, but call first. Hope this helped.

Sometimes even though the voltage at charging is good the battery or alternator could be low on charge or charging low for your vehicles specs.

unbolt the negative power wire

unplug the positive power wore

remove the tension bolt on the top of the alternator

remove the lower bolt and pull out the alternator

it is probably your wire harness check it out quick Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_wrong_if_the_battery_light_stays_on_and_the_battery_still_runs_down_on_a_1996_windstar_after_installing_a_new_battery_and_alternator

Check volatages everywhere, there could be a short somewhere.

Also, check the tension on the belt that drives your alternator. That belt might be slipping due to a faulty tensioner and not spinning the alternator fast enough.

Loosen the bolt on the alternator that is located at the top that is located in a long curved slot. Loosen the pivot bolt at the bottom of the alternator. Slide the alternator forward to gain slack on the belt. Remove belt and put on new belt. Get a crowbar, jam it in front of the alternator, and pry the alternator back being careful not to crush any wiring or bend any fragile metal. Hold the crowbar in place while you tighten the top alternator bolt with your third hand. Check for proper belt deflection. Tighten pivot bolt. If is squeels when running it's too loose.

Replace with Good Year Gatorback belt. Costs more but worth the money.

Yes its at a dealer or a parts store