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Buick Century
This category covers questions about the Buick Century, a line of full-size luxury models from the Buick division of General Motors. The name originated from the British slang for exceeding 100 mph as "doing the century." The Century is sold as the Buick Regal in Japan as Toyota Motor Corporation claims rights to the name "Century" there.
2,073 Questions
The current speed is about 4 miles per hour.
You've done 600 miles in a total of 12 hours, therefore your average speed was 600/12 = 50 mph.
Where is the evap system purge and vent solenoids located on a Buick LaSabre?
usually in front or on top of the gas tank. If you are getting a code like P0449 "Evap Vent Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction" You could first check the wiring at the solenoid for corrsion, if OK change the valve. If the solenoid is on the top of the tank you have to drop the tank
It is not by the tank. The purge valve is right on top of the odd #'d bank's intake. There are two vacuum lines running to it.
What is the push rod placement for a 1998 oldsmobil 3.1?
With the engine in the car...from left to right....Front head is L-S-S-L-S-L Rear head will be L-S-L-S-S-L
Where is the paint color code for 96 buick century?
Most cars have a big 'sticker' on the door jam of the drivers door. This information should be there. If not, call an auto store. They should be able to tell you where to find it. There also might be a big 'sticker' on the bottom of the hood of the car when you open it. It would be here if you have one here. If your car doesnt have the "Big Sticker" on the door jamb of the drivers side door try looking under the spare tire located in the trunk it should be there if it hasn't gotten painted over... happy hunting!
Why are exhaust manifolds turning red on 1993 Buick century 3.3?
the catilatic converters could be stopped up.
Where is the backup light fuse for 2002 Buick century?
There are no fuses for the dash lights. Are your dash lights not working? If not, then you will need the instrument cluster refurbished. I can do this for you, contact me at ANCTechnologies at hotmail
Why would a 1986 Buick Century Limited die at a stop light and not restart?
Around that time to save fuel GM had a lock up feature in the transmission that prevented slippage in high gear . This could stick ( fail to release )when you stop keeping you in high gear which would cause you to stall.Could be very intermittent.The lock feature is controlled by a wire going to the transmission.We cut it on 3 cars 1 grand prix and 2 luminas . They never stalled again after that.Used veh wiring dia.Probably from book in pepboys.Noticed no change in power,operation or mileage. Hope this helps.
How much oil is needed in a 2001 Buick century?
Well, I can't find "flag" now, but it depends upon the engine size.
Where is the DPFE located on a 2001 Buick Century?
It's bound to be somewhere on the exhaust riser to the EGR valve. Look for about a 5/8 inch tube coming up from the rear exhaust manifold.
How do you install a new heater core in a 1992 Buick Century with the 6 cylinders?
remove heater hoses from pipes sticking through firewall on passenger side. Most of the rest of this involves standing on your head in the floor of the passenger front seat and probably getting an antifreeze shampoo. Remove the under-dash cover and open ductwork compartment to expose heater core. Remove screws holding it in place and pull it out under the dash. Reassembly is the reverse.
Additional comments::
I tried to find a post on how to remove the dashboard on my 92 LeSabre and really couldn't find a good one. I managed to piece together enough information to figure it out.
1992 Buick LeSabre Dashboard Removal Procedures to replace heater core and hoses
Car ramps or two jack stands. You need to drain the rad .Access the thumbscrew drain cock, located on the driver side at the very bottom of the radiator. To do this you need to raise the car to get a bucket under to catch the old antifreeze.
Be sure to start the car first and turn all the temp controls to OFF.
Parts and tools
New heater core
New heater hoses (don't believe what Autozone tells you; both heater hoses are exactly the same design and length. They will try and sell you one hose that is completely different than the top heater hose. WRONG!
Optional: new dash bulbs, new rad hoses and clamps (The bulbs cannot be replaced by pulling them out of the sockets.) You must buy them preinstalled. DON'T believe what Autozone tells you. They don't know.
Digital camera (to take pics to help reassemble
Notepad and pencil
ignition keys
thin flat blade screwdriver
Long flat blade screwdriver
Medium length Philips screwdriver
-T15 torx screwdriver & a ¼" drive ratchet, ¼" socket set (metric & standard), 3"- ¼" drive extension, plus 2 - 12" ¼" drive extension and 1 - 6" long ¼" drive extension
Assistant who has small hands and arms
Plywood to lay over engine for helper to assist in removing heater hose clamps and to install new hoses and clamps. Note the cable pliers are required to remove the factory installed ear clamps. There are 4 heater core clamps; two next to the firewall and two on the block. Each rad hose has 2 ear type clamps as well.
Standard short handle pliers
flashlight
needlenose pliers
Dremel tool with cut off wheel
Twine
Dish soap
Permanent marker pen
Large pot to boil water in
One hell of a lot of patience
This job will take 15 -- 18 hours if you take your time. Don't hurry or you will break something.
Hints & Tips: The plastics will be brittle and will break if twisted or forced.
The bottom lever for the vent door is composed of two levers. Carefully study the connection. Beware, do not twist the metal lever as it is held in place by a very fragile plastic keeper. I broke mine and had to find a plastic push nut and then glue the top of it. This lever has a 90 degree bend on the end which attaches to the actuator and is inserted from the bottom up. Why didn't they insert it from the top down is beyond me.
Most screws to be removed will be the ¼ " , T15 torx type.
All screws are not the same size and length. Use plastic sandwich bags and label them.
Procedure:
Heater core removal from the engine side
Lay out plywood sheet for assistant to lay on
IF you look directly down the fire wall you will see the end of the heater core hoses that connect directly to the heater core. You will also see a lot of wiring and a fuel line return that are in the way. Use some of the twine to tie these hoses etc towards the front of the engine to make a hole. Don't cinch them too tight!
Have your assistant guide the clamp end of the wire pliers down to the first hose and engage the ears. You then squeeze the pliers as tight as you can, while your assistant keeps their fingers out of the way. Once you have the clamps open, have your assistant slides the clamps back and over the ridge on the heater core outlets. Relax the pliers. If you are lucky, your assistant might be able to rotate the hose on the core pipes and then pull them off. If not, use your short handled pliers to rotate and break the seal on the hoses and then slide them back.
Repeat procedure for the bottom hose.
Remember when installing the new hoses outside the firewall, do the bottom one FIRST!
Remove the clamps on the engine end of the hoses using the cable pliers.
If for whatever reason the pliers won't clamp onto the ears, carefully use the dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the defective clamp. Then follow the removal procedure outlined above.
Now is a good time to renew the rad hoses. Cheap investment. If you go to Autozone they will try and sell you a bottom hose that is not the correct diameter nor does it have the wire coil inside to keep the hose from collapsing. Bring both rad hoses with you to make sure of the shape and diameter.
Now go to the inside of the car and disassemble the dash to expose the old heater core.
Photo shows new heater hoses in place. The new heater core has already been installed.
Now you can see why you need an assistant with small hand. There is no room to work those heater hoses in!
New heater hoses in place. Buy the screw type hose clamps to replace the ear type clamps. Use tape to secure just the backside of the clamp to the new heater hose. That way you will be able to use your socket or screwdriver to tighten the clamp. If you assistant has small hands they can spin the clamp to the right position, so you can tighten it.
Before installing, immerse the heater hoses one at a time in a pot of hot water to loosen them. Once you remove them, wipe the inside of the hoses with dish soap so they slide on easier.
New heater hoses attached to engine. Yes, the clamps are too long but that is all they had in stock. Be careful to install the clamps ahead of the ridge on the stubs.
New rad hose in place.
Bottom rad hose in place
Top rad hose in place
Dash removal section:
Step 1: Remove all dash vents by gently prying down on the top of the vent while gently pulling down and out. Gently pry up on the bottom of the vent while gently pulling up and out. You should be able to do this with a small thin flat head screwdriver. Gently pry the top and bottom and turn and pull with you fingers only and the vent will come out. DON'T USE A PAIR OF PLIERS!
Successful removal of vent. Remove the screws from all the vent ducts (once you remove the vent you will see the screw at the top of the hole), caution to not drop the screw down the duct. Stuff a rag in the vent to catch the screw if dropped and/or use a magnetic tipped driver. Okay, there is no rag, but I staged this pic.
Remove the screws on the glovebox box; two top and two bottom. The whole glovebox can now be lifted out of the dash. Remember to remove the passenger vent first. Otherwise the screw at the top of the vent will not allow you to remove the glove box.
Remove the bottom cover plate above the passenger floor mat.
This is the photo of the bottom trim piece with the light and module removed.
This exposes the heater cowling etc. Note that this panel has one courtesy light and the silver module that activates the "change oil light". Mine was not working so I went to GMC to buy one. They quoted $275.00. I found one on e bay for $18.00. Search by using the large print id number on the module. This module slides out of the slots in the bottom panel. Once out, unplug it and put aside.
Pic of oil change warning light module
Remove all exposed T15 torx screws and glovebox interior.
The plastic wood trim comes off in two pieces. Left of the steering column and right of the steering column. Gently pry the woodgrain from the dashboard. Again, only use the small thin flat head screwdriver.
Repeat this procedure for the opposing side. Make sure all the metal clips are still on the plastic tabs on the back of the wood grain. Don't forget the screws above the gear indicator and gas gauge, in the top of the main dash display.
Unlock the gear shift, press on the brake and put the car in 1st gear (be sure to chock your wheels or have the vehicle on a level surface). This allows you access to the bottom screws and makes the instrument panel easier to remove.
The portion of the dashboard surrounding the clear plastic dash display will be caulked to the black plastic dash. Carefully separate the caulk from the black or clear plastic all the way around the perimeter.
Now is the time to remove the clear panel that houses the gauges and lights. It has one plug in module no mechanical speedometer to worry about. Remove this panel and remove the metal spacer on the back of the panel. This allows you to access all the bulbs. Replace them, you don't want to do this job again, just to replace a burned out bulb! There are two types of bulbs; one has a white base the other a black base.
Note that the shift indicator is controlled by a thin wire cable. This cable clips to the steering column on the passenger side of the column. DO NOT BREAK this. Also mark where the cable clip goes on otherwise the shift indicator will read incorrectly when you reassemble.
Remove the gray (see above photo) plastic padded trim piece.
Note the hidden fuse panel when you remove the gray padded trim piece.
On the passenger you will see the two piece cowling that houses two doors that control the heat and temperature. Remove any plugs. There are two screws that hold this cowling together. The top lever is easy to disassemble. Just carefully lift up on the threaded end of the lever. This photo shows the new heater core in place with the heater cowling removed. The old core just slides out and the new one slides in.
Take notice of the red painted bottom lever. (I painted it red to keep track of it) Note how it fits into the actuation arm. I broke the old keeper piece so used a plastic push nut with crazy glue on the top for insurance.
You can just see the new heater core with red sticker in place at the top of the pic. The white lever on the cowling is the upper lever arm.
Pic shows new heater core in place. The new heater core should have a two hole bracket that clips onto the new heater core.
Second pic of one of the two part heater cowling. Note the orange plug is disconnected.
The bottom one is built with two levers; the first one is metal with a threaded end the second that attaches to the metal section is a u shaped plastic arm. Remove the plastic arm. Now you must be very careful when you split the cowling apart that you DO NOT BREAK the plastic keeper that you cannot see until you get the whole thing apart. The cowling does not come out easy. I had to twist and turn to get it out. That's when I broke the keeper on the bottom lever.
You now have access to all the components behind the dash panel. This is the perfect time to clean those air vent deflectors and address any squeaks or rattles in the dash. An air compressor is essential.
IF you unplug the connectors that the cowling has, it makes it makes it much easier to work them out. Now you will see the old heater core. (Silver piece to the left of the pic)
Again you see the Hidden fuse panel.
The two piece heater cowling is in place and now attaching the screws that attach the cowling in place. Note the upper arm is in place. Very important that you turn all temp controls to off so you don't position any of the control arms in the wrong position.
Reverse procedures to reinstall.
Where is the PVC valve located on 1991 Buick century?
The PCV valve plugs into the rocker arms cover or intake manifold.
Will pulling the airbag fuse disable it on 1997 Buick century?
yes. but fuse no 31 goes to the front pass airbag. The front driver may have to go through a different more complex procedure. But remember to disconnect the neg battery terminal for 30 min before pulling fuse no 31. Dont pull no 5 fuse underhood because you will disable both of them and there is more to do with the stering column etc. I can only speak for the passenger side
Remove the cover panel from beneath the dash on the passenger side.
Unplug the power 'ribbon' wires leading to the resitor.
Unplug the wires that lead from the resitor to the blower motor housing. There are usually two, one black and one purple that share the same plug.
Remove the short hose that leads from the blower motor housing to the ventilation system ducts.
Remove the blower motor by removing the three hex screws that hold it in place.
Remove the resistor by removing the three hex screws that hold it in place. The resistor is right against the firewall so two of the screws are very difficult to reach. A slender flexible socket extension will make the job easier.
Attach the new resistor in place using the same hex screws. Only 1 or 2 of the original three are needed (the part is very light) if you do not feel like fighting with the ones next to the firewall.
Reatach the blower motor and reconnect the hose.
Plug the power cable wires back into the resitor and the wire from the resistor back into the blower motor.
Instead of hex screws mine were held in with 7/32 bolts. It was difficult, but easier than I had anticipated. I replaced two of the three bolts holding the resistor. The blower motor came with instructions saying that the plugs may have to be cut off of the resistor and the blower motor, then spliced together... I had to do this on mine.
I got everything back together and now the fan works on four of the five levels. It does not work on high.
I found on another site that said "high" uses a different circuit, with a separate fuse. I found the fuse panel on the passenger side of the dash when the door is open. The cover for the panel has all of the fuses mapped out, so it was easy to spot the 25 amp "Blower High Speed" fuse. I was very impressed to find the panel contained a fuse puller and replacement fuses. Mine was blown, I replaced it, and all is good with the world.
The information I received here was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Where is the oil filter located on a 1993 Mercedes-Benz 300e 2.8?
Located just left (looking into the engine) of the fuse box on driver's side. It is a canister type. Mr. G.
Where is the water pump located on a 1988 Buick Century 2.8L?
The pump is located under the smooth pulley with no ribs. Remove the belt by unloading the tensioner, then remove the 4 bolts that attach the pully to the pump. The pulley may be stuck to the pump, so spray some penetrating oil on the pulley to pump hub area and let it soak. After a few minutes, you should be able to tap on the pulley which will dislodge it from the pump. There are 5 bolts that hold the pump to the timing cover. Remove the bolts and the pump. Clean all the old gasket material away using a scraper or razor blade. Install the new pump and reinstall the pulley and the belt. You will need to fill the cooling system by opening the bleeder screw on the top of the fitting above the pump and possibly the bleeder on the tstat housing where the upper radiator hose meets the engine. Open both of these bleeders while you fill the radiator. Only close the bleeders once coolant comes out of the bleeder. Now it should be alright to start the engine. If you don't bleed the air this way, you will overheat the engine.
Where is the oil filter located on a 318i BMW 1998?
Let me 1st say that I have a 318IS, not a 1998 318I. With that said, the oil filter is on top of the engine driver side, a little more toward the center of the engine, under a 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" hard plastic or metal cannister(black). The cannister has a dome shaped top. Must use oil filter wrench to remove/install.
How do you replace intake gasket buick century 2002?
Take it to a mechanic you know and trust. Depending on how "good" the mechanic is, they will charge you between $350 and $800 to do the job. Make sure the mechanic re-machines the intake. This may take an extra day, and they may have to send it somewhere else to get done. If all he/she does is take the intake off, replace the gasket, and put the intake back on, that's not a real job. It has to be machined.
Where is the oil filter located on a 2000 Infinity I30?
If you stand in front of the engine, the oil filter is located directly next to the oil pan on the left hand side. The oil filter can not be reached from the top of the car, you have to reach it from the bottom. NOTE: You will need a 14mm socket for the oil pan plug.
How do you replace fuel pump on 1999 Buick Centery?
Undo straps. Remove filler hoses. Unplugs fuel module harness. Take off fuel lines at tank. Remove fuel tank, remove retaining ring on top of tank. Pull out module (sending unit/pump) & replace with new one. Don't forget to replace the "O" ring & retainer ring. Reinstall tank in reverse order and I hope you did some diagnostics because some of these modules are $5-700.00.
How do you change the inner tie rod on a 1995 Buick Century?
inner rod is usually part of rack unit
replace unit
some times the "inner" rod is bolted to the cylinder outputs of the rack unit where the dust boot is located.
so just remove the bolt that holds the tie rod on to the rack.
My whipers on my Buick century 2002 are stuck up and wont go down?
I had the same problem on my 2000. It seems mine slipped on the studs and would stay in a up position. I simply removed the arms from the studs, ran them a few times so they were properly positioned, and replaced the arms back on in the "home" position.
I had the same problem on my 2002 Buick Century and found that it was a broken park tab on the wiper mechanism. We were able to use a small piece of metal to reinforce it.
