Cadillac DeVille

I'm sorry, but I can't assist with that.

There are several fuse boxes on the Cadillac Allante. I know that, in particular, the 1993 Allante has a fuse box in the trunk, right next to the battery, underneath the ashtray assembly, and then one more in the engine compartment. For the one in the trunk-- lift the trunk. Facing the rear of the car, looking at the back window, move over to the right rear wall of the trunk and flip up the panel there. It is a carpeted panel that is not obvious. Shake that panel a bit and you will see that you can flip it up. I believe it has some Velcro tabs that keep it down. There is a fuse box sitting there inside the shell of the body once you open that flap. You won't miss it. For the one by the battery, which is located within a shelf behind the passenger seat---slide the carpeted shelfing facade towards the passenger's seat. There will be one electrical connection that goes to the speaker that is connected to that panel, so be careful not to pull it out too fast or hard. The panel is a little hard to slide, so patiently jiggle on it. I recommend you put a few fingers behind the back/end of the panel and push it towards your body. Once you remove that panel, you will see the fuse panel right next to the battery. For the fuse panel underneath the ashtray---carefull pry up on that assembly, which is by the gear shift. It is shaped like a box that just sits simply in that slot. Pull up and put to the side that ashtray assembly and look down. You will see a fuse panel just like the one in the trunk. The fuses in it and in the trunk are the very small type that are 10's, 20's, and 30's. For the fuse panel in the engine compartment, a fuse panel that looks similar to the one by the battery, go to the front of the car, open the hood, and look to the left and down. You will see a black box about 6" by 6". A flimsy cover covers this panel. Carefully pry up the taps that keep this cover down, and pull out the cover. There you will find larger fuses.

Those are the locations of the 4 fuse boxes on the 1993 Cadillac Allante. Good luck, and don't forget to consult the owner's manual to find out for which electrical function each single fuse serves. Again, care is important. The Allante, over all, is a fragile car--very fine but not tough, so don't pull or pry on things too hard. Feel free to consult me with any other questions about the Allante by writing me at grantwest@hotmail.com. I also highly recommend the services rendered by one Mr. Dick Hussey at AllanteSource. www.allantesource.com. If I can't help you, I know he and Ron at that shop can! Good luck!

Its located under the hood, on the drivers side of the engine, right behind the oil filter 4.9L engine.

It is best to grasp the sides of the stopper firmly with two hands and twist it gently back and forth to break the seal before pulling it out. Avoid pulling too hard as it may break the stopper.

When the heater is off but heat is still coming out of the vent, it could be due to residual heat from the engine or a problem with the cooling system. This could be a sign of a faulty heater control valve or a malfunctioning blend door. It's best to have a mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose and fix the issue.

If the displays for the heater and gas went blank simultaneously, it is likely a fuse issue. Check the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the displays. Replace any blown fuses with ones of the same amperage to restore functionality. If the problem persists, it may be a wiring issue that requires professional inspection.

Try resetting the fuel gauge by disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting it. If the issue persists, it may be a faulty fuel level sensor or gauge that needs to be replaced by a professional mechanic.

Good cars however motor mounts go's bad causing many other problems. air suspention keeps running when air shocks are leaking weak cylinder head gaskets, weak engine power, lots of SERVICE SOON / SERVICE NOW lights

Under the back seat. Pull the bench seat up. You will feel the clamps releasing it. The fuse box is now visible to the left of the center.

Research a process called "lost wax casting". The process is simple really. Make a model of what you want using wax. Put a stem on the model somewhere that you can peel off when it turns to metal. Put the model into a special sand or heat resistant casting plaster. Heat the plaster or sand casting to melt the wax and bring it up to the approximate temperature of the liquid metal, then pour in your heated/liquified metal into the spout that was created by the stem. There are a couple methods of forcing the metal into the small cracks and you'll find them by researching the process.

This question is too general but will provide an answer to the rear light on 2007 CTS (which I presume is the same for all current models). The nuts needed to be unscrewed are accessed behind the body panels in the trunk. The body panel can be pulled away by unscrewing the tie downs (black plastic knobs) and moving the cover from the spare wheel well. Note: be careful unscrewing the nuts so they aren't dropped. Although the void in the rear corner is not deep, you will may have to clear some other components bolted to the body in order to get your hands into the void. Once the nuts are removed, the rear light cover can be pulled away from the body. The bulbs can be accessed once the cover is pulled away from car body.
This question is too general but will provide an answer to the rear light on 2007 CTS (which I presume is the same for all current models). The nuts needed to be unscrewed are accessed behind the body panels in the trunk. The body panel can be pulled away by unscrewing the tie downs (black plastic knobs) and moving the cover from the spare wheel well. Note: be careful unscrewing the nuts so they aren't dropped. Although the void in the rear corner is not deep, you will may have to clear some other components bolted to the body in order to get your hands into the void. Once the nuts are removed, the rear light cover can be pulled away from the body. The bulbs can be accessed once the cover is pulled away from car body.

If by nothing you mean it acks as though there is no battery in the car try this it worked on my (1990 DEVILLE ). Put the car in park ,Attach a remote starter switch to the starter,remove the air cleaner,turn the key to the on position, put approx one teaspoon of gas in the intake manifoil throat and try to start the engin using the remote starter. If the car starts the problem is somewhere in the pass key decoder circuit which includes the starter enable relay ,the fuel pump relay,key warning ,seat belt warning ETC. Your car has on onboard diagnostic computer which will give basic problem codes you can find out what the codes mean in a Haynes Repair Manual for your car. I repaired my car by bypassing the starter enable relay and the car works fine (but if the battery is disconnected for any reason I must charge the engine with a teaspoon of gas to restart the car GOOD LUCK a repair is $600+

Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available, for FREE, in the reference section(make copies of the correct sections) read up and fix it like a PRO! :) good luck-Dave

i have a 86 with a 305 and OEM is 5w30 but if higher milage i would recommend heavyer I'll run 20w50 or straight 40 in summer with no problems but that's me also use 40 in winter once in a while hard to crank but after a couple of cranks it fires and have had no problems ut once again that's me

Starter solenoid is not making contact to turn starter motor. Replace starter or solenoid(which is on the starter)

!st try the battery posts. look and see if tight and clean... same thing happened to me i tightened it ,and the caddy started right up

remove lower covers under steering wheel, two screws are hidden behind heating and ac trim panel. remove the bolts to the bracket holding the steering column up. lower the steering column. the switch is located on the steering shaft underneath the dashboard instrument cluster.

The Starter Motor Is Located Under The Intake Manifold, You Have To Remove A Bunch Of Stuff To Remove The Manifold To Get To The Starter, It Is A Small Gear Reduction Starter. Not Hard To Replace At That Point. But A Lot Of Trouble To Get To. I Recommend You Take It To A Good Garrage. Expect To Pay A Pretty High Price Also. Considering The Labor Involved. GOD BLESS

29s here, i work for an automotive company a recently we had a 94 or 95 caddy deville with the north star engine in for a starter replacement. the starter was located in the center of the motor! the engine is a v-shape (v8) with the intake cover acting as a lid overtop of the motor with the starter smack in the center. you would have to remove the intake in order to even see the starter if you have the same motor types.

That is exactly how to remove it on a 97, i have one and the starter is located under the intake.

1.

Disconnect the battery cable. 2.

Raise the car to a convenient working height. 3.

Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation.

On some models it may be necessary to remove the crossover pipe to complete this procedure.

4.

Remove the front bracket from the starter and the two mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter. 5.

Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, and then remove the unit from the car. 6.

Reverse the removal procedures to install the starter. Tighten the two mounting bolts.

-- battery

-- battery cable

-- connection between battery cable and battery

A fault in any of these would still supply the small current used by the

lights and radio, but not the huge battery current required for starting.

Fuse Link @ starter--- Ignition Switch------- Netural Saftey Switch- Bad ignition switch, or bad neutral safety switch.

Turn on radio, Push volume button till the time mode appears. Then push small set button normally on the right side of the radio. Push Scan button to advance hours and seek button to advance minutes.

try going to the parts store and buying a chilton manual for the make and model of your vehicle. It has diagrams and step by step instructions. It will cost somewhere around 30 dollars of so and if you ever need to fix any other part of the same vehicle you will have it at your fingertips.

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. And this is What Chiltons doesn't tell you:I've done it too many times. You probably need to remove the pipe from the manifold and pull it towards the front of the engine until it comes off the male end of the muffler in front of the catalytic converter. The rest is smooth sailing because you can't get the starter out of there without it being removed. The bolts on the manifold are tricky and may requre plenty of liquid wrench, patience and a double jointed socket. These starters and the whole damn car were notorious for electrical problems. Improve your chances by having the starter rebuilt by a professional shop, you'll save money and they'll spec it according to your car, not like the generac crap you get at Auto whatever.Getting the starter out requires a little twisting and turning but it does come out.Finally, buy a grounding wire and attach it to the ground bolt on the starter on top of the existing ground wire. Take the other end and secure it to the frame of the car, doesn't have to be long, drill a hole or find an existing hole and put a safety washer and bolt on it, securing it to the frame. I sanded the area down a little to have a good contact. The aluminum blocks on these vehicles don't ground well and it's worth the extra effort. The poor grounding can lead to failures in the ignition switch, alternator, battery, etc. Good luck.