Cadillac Fleetwood

Test battery condition, & terminals. If they check out good, check the starter Thanks. I have had several people tell me it is the starter. Apparently GM solenoids overheat which cause the slow cranking. I will buy a new starter and install an aftermarket heat sheild.

Any wiring between the power feed i.e. fuse box and the pump

At the pivot point of the clutch pedal, underneath the dash. Very hard to get to. I would take the driver's seat out. That will make it easier.

On my 1985 FWD 4.1L Fleetwood, it is behind the engine on top of the exhaust. I would recommend a 7/8" O2 Sensor socket, a one foot 3/8" Drive extension, and a 3/8" ratchet with a long handle, as this will be quite difficult to remove (if mine was like others). When installing the new one, do not tighten it too much.

That depends entirely on the condition and location of the mobile home just as it would to a regular house. - I have inspected dozens of mobile homes and seen many variations from the "book value'. Things like the plumbing and electrical wiring are often ignored by realty evaluators. - But if there's a new fridge, they'll surely note that.( -It's in their interest to get as much for the home as possible).Location is also a big item. -In the area where I live now you can see a mobile costing 49,000 in one park and asking 69,000 in a nicer park.

The 5.7 in your Cadillac is a Chevrolet LT1. The same motor that came in an Impala SS and Buick Roadmaster. It uses an "OPTI SPARK" distributor that runs off the front of the motor. There is no timing adjustment that can be made with the unit. The engine management computer controls the timing and adjusts the spark as ou drive. If you are having timing problems, the OPTI SPARK needs to be replaced.

The thermostat is located on top of the water pump. Remove the old thermostat by removing the hose and two (2) bolts. Clean the area around the "throat" to remove the old gasket. Reverse the process by installing a new thermostat.

Driver's side front to rear: 1-3-5-7

Passenger side front to rear: 2-4-6-8

it s cheaper to replace the complete comp ======== and also less time consuming.. DAve

You order a replacement pump. I got mine at Rockauto.com then you unbolt the unit remove the in and out fuel lines and pull your old one off. Reverse for installation.

Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader.

check fuses and for vac leak at unit and vac pump

Check out this web site. It contains information beyond your wildest dreams about the 1963 Cadillac Fleetwood. You did not specify whether this was a Series Seventy Five or the Sedan. It makes a difference. (I have a 1968 Fleetwood Series 75.) http://100megsfree4.com/cadillac/cad1960/cad63f.htm Good Luck

if its a 5.7 engine it is 18436572

87 octane

The Fleetwood of this vintage has a circuit breaker on the fuse panel. It is a cylindrical device that snaps in like a fuse and on the bottom of the fuse panel. Check your manual for the exact location. That may --not-- be the problem, it could be a fuseable link between there and the starter, where the power divides coming from the battery. There is a possiblity of a problem with the ignition switch causing the problem as well. Also, this divine classic has the "Emergency" switch and bypass switch, which could be root of the problem. The best thing is to become friends with your DC voltmeter and trace out the circuit. A Cadillac shop manual is your best friend for doing this. I have one for my 1968 Fleetwood Limo and have spent many "quality" hours with this good book.

1993-1996 Fleetwood
1. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
2. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds.
3. The CHANGE OIL light should flash two times and then go out.
4. Turn the ignition OFF.
If the CHANGE OIL light comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, it did not reset. You'll need to reset the system again. 1991-1993 Deville, & FWD Fleetwood
When "CHANGE OIL SOON" light is illuminated
Press and hold the "RESET" and "RANGE" buttons on the Fuel Data Center for 5 to 60 seconds. When the buttons are released, the light will flash four times if it has been reset. If the light comes back on for more than 5 seconds, repeat the procedure. [http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cadireset.html Available At] Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

It is used to flash running lights after a pass is made on the freeway. Like the truckers do after they pass a truck.

pink

it could be so many diffrent things google "error codes for a 1994 fleetwood brougham" it will send you to myweb.accesuss.com or .net..very usefull in tracking down the cause

indicates the rear shocks are being filled with air

You probably mean "Command Line."

The command line is a way of interacting with the computer by typing text based commands, rather than using a Graphical User Interface (GUI). Instead of using a mouse to double click the icon of a program, someone using the command line might simply enter the name of the program, and have it run.

i have the 93 fleetwood hearse, ive had it for years now and there has never been a problem with it at all. except finding a parking spot.lol did have a small power steering leak but that was a quick fix, hose just cracked

behind your left vent on the left side of the radio you will feel it when radio is removed.