Cadillac Seville

to change the headlight assembly lift the cover panel in front of engine compartment. there are 3 sections all together the outside secs are for access to headlamps. im guessing that you are replacing the whole light assy. there are 2 10 millimeter bolts on top just behind lamp housing. remove these and housing will be free. to remove the housing you need to release the side marker lamp housing. there is a wire spring clamp in frt inside. pull it forward and in and marker will release. lift headlamps up slightly and then work them around til you can remove them. unplug headlight bulbs and unscrew blinker bulb. to put back in make sure you get the plastic tabs on back of housing in their slots or the housing will bounce around on you. also make sure you clean halogen bulbs with alcohol swabs so there is nothing on them or they might blow. do not touch bulb after cleaning

hope this does the trick for you

THEKINGCZAR

no "reset switch" on these cars the powertrain control module controls the fuelpump via a relay

look in owners manual for instrucyion on some models has to be done by dealer

The oil pump may be bad check the oil psi with a manual guage after the oil gets hot and you will see that the oil psi drops after the oil heats up and thins out some

make sure everything is off (radio, etc). place your key in the ignition, half turned on, for 20 min or so and that will reset the security system. i had to do this with my 2000 deville and it worked. try it at your own risk. goodluck

Disconnect the battery. Remove all the bolts around the top plate that sits on top of the engine (there's 10-12 of them). Set that piece aside. Remove the four bolts holding the fuel injector assembly down (those bolts are about 7 inches long!). Get a 24 inch piece of 2x4 ready because you're going to slowly and gently lift the left side of the fuel injector assembly and then lay the 2x4 under the assembly but on top of the engine. Put a light down in the exposed area and there is the starter. Reach in very carefully with a 10 mm socket and remove both mounting bolts as well as the two bolts that hold the two wires onto the starter. Out it comes. It is a very small, lightweight starter and you'll have no trouble. Have it checked however, because more often than not, the problem with not starting is NOT the starter but rather the neutral/safety switch at the end of your shift cable on the top of the transmission!!! Wally in Hagerstown, MD

I had this exact same problem with my Seville STS and it turned out to be a bad MAP sensor. If you are a little bit tech savy at all the MAP sensor or (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is located inside your intake manifold right ontop your fuel rail. However I highly suggest that if you do not know much about cars then you should not attempt to change it out yourself. In addition do not be suprised if you or your mechanic finds that there is a large amount of gasoline in your intake manifold. This is what caused may MAP sensor to crap out. Which was ofcourse was caused by an internal fuel rail leak. The MAP sensor itself will cost you about 75-80 bucks, depending on where you go. Hope this helps, good luck!

That sounds like your transmission.

Too much transmission fluid in the trans or pressure build up. Check the fluid level as outlined in your owners manual. If it is not overfull, take the vehicle to a transmission professional.

82,512 Sedan DeVilles were produced. There is no way to determine exactly how many are still on the road.

How to Replace spark plugs on 2004 cadillac deville Sls with 4.6 v8 engine

Okay. Take the resonator thingy from the intake and spin it so that it's not covering the tranny dipstick but it's still connected.

Start the car, and get a rag ready to wipe the stick.

pull the stick, wipe, put it in and bring it back out.

Fluid should look clean and should be halfway up the hash marks.

I have a 97 Seville SLS. I bought the car with 30,000 miles in 2005 from a dealer for $10 grand. No problems for the first year. Now in June 2008, a number of age-related problems are beginning to appear. I think I have escaped the bad head gasket lootery, though. Coolant problems in this car can be related to a number of things. One, and the worst case scenario, is the notorious head gasket problem associated with the northstar engine. You have this, you're pretty much done with the ten-year old car, in my opinion. Two, it can be simply a bad radiator or overflow resevoir, and the hoses, including heater hoses associated with this. All are subject to dry rot, cracking, etc. Especially the neck of the overflow resevoir. I had everything replaced here eventually over a year's time in 2007. The radiator and the overflow R&R cost about $500. The subsequent replacement of the 4 "heater hoses" finally clinched the deal, and solved the remaining leak issues, that cost about $150. By the way ,,, you can live with a slow freon leak for ages, rather than replace anything having to do with the a/c.

The best ignition wires for the Northstar are the factory recommended AC/Delco OEM replacements. Anything else and you're asking for trouble.

The fuel filter is underneath the car, almost directly under the feet of a passenger in the back seat on the driver's side would be. Don't forget to release the remnant fuel pressure (very high and lasts a long long time) otherwise you are in for a gasoline shower, very dangerous for your health (eyes specially) and your surroundings (fire).

Remove the spark plug wire or coil and use a padded socket to remove the spark plug from the head. Examine the old spark plug for wear patterns. Very carefully start threading the new spark plug in, such as not to damage the threads in the head, and finally use the padded socket to tighten firm (lookup specific torque specifications for your vehicle).

LOOK UNDER THE HOOD DRIVERS SIDE BY THE SHOCK TOWER PAUL G

There should be a semi translucant white plastic tank inside the engine compartment mounted on either the left or right side. This is your overflow tank, its purpose is for coolant to expand and flow out of your radiator when it heats up. The tank prevents the coolant from pouring onto the road which would force you to add more coolant as the engine cools again (since cold coolant will take up less volume than hot coolant). There is a 'hot' and 'cold' mark (or 'full' and 'add') on the side of this plastic tank. Make sure your engine is cold before checking the coolant level. To fill the tank (if it is at or below the 'add' mark) pop off the black cap on the tank and pour in the properly mixed (50/50 is a good rule of thumb) coolant to the full mark. Close cap and you are set. However, if the tank is empty it is likely that your radiator is low on coolant as well, and if you don't want to overheat and potentially seize your engine you will want to add coolant directly to the radiator. To do this make sure the engine is cold (as if it is hot, you will end up with scalding coolant spraying you, very bad...) then press and hold down while twisting to the left, the radiator cap. The radiator is the big black rectangle with funny looking metal fins throughout the middle at the very front of your car. If you don't know much about rigs, I don't recommend running the engine while you do this. If you do, I like to run the engine with the cap off and pull the throttle cable to force the coolant to go lower while filling it.

7 quarts

I'm pretty sure it is located behind the rear left tire located on the frame

i am only aware of 2 fuse boxes on a sevile one is under the hood and the other is under the back seat. also if you do believe that there are more your drivers manuel should tell you where they are located.

It came with r12. There are some aftermarket freon that will work with r12 called freeze12. If the system is empty I would change it over to r134. You would need a different offrice tube also. Did my 90 lesabre about 4 years ago.

7.5 quarts of oil

Well to start off there is many things this could be. Some of the most common ones are actually pretty simple to fix.

The first thing i would try is taking off your battery cables and refitting them on. Sometimes corrosion, a bad cable, or a broken adjuster cause it to not have a good connection.

The Second thing i would try is charging the battery. Most modern cars have a safety built in that when the car gets to a certain Voltage/Amperage, they make it click to let you know that it needs charged.

The third thing i would try, if all that fails, is tapping your starter solenoid with a hammer. the gears inside the solenoid usually tear down after a few years of starting and get stuck. If you don't know anything about cars this could be kind of hard to do. ts usually right on the front of the engine block next to your transmission cooler, that's attached to your radiator. You should see a big cylinder with a little cylinder attached to it. The little cylinder is your solenoid.

Good Luck

Start trying to isolate the problem. Find out whether it's getting fuel and spark. Narrow it down a little at a time until you find the problem, THEN replace the part. Don't just throw parts at it.