Chevy Caprice Classic

First remove the two Phillips screws holding the arm rest on. They are located down inside where you fingers would grab to pull the door closed. Next, remove the two large Phillips screws holding the door pull strap just above the arm rest. They are hidden under plastic cover plates at each end of the handle. Use a small flat screwdriver to flip the covers open. Remove the one Phillips screw in the recess behind the metal pull handle just above the window controls. After that, CAREFULLY pry up on the front edge of the window control pod. This is usually fake wood colored. If it doesn't pry up after a few tries you can leave it in until you get the door panel off and then disconnect it from the back. Carefully remove all wiring connectors from the window control pod. There are five or so and each comes off in a different way. Once that is done, you can pry out the plastic Christmas tree connectors that hold the perimiter of the door on. These might break or pull through the plastic during the process so go easy! It is quite handy to have the prying tool designed for this - $6 at your local AutoZone. The plastic connectors are positioned around the edges of the door panel - just pick a spot and start prying straight out. Work your way around until only the top edge by the window is still connected. Once the bottom is completely free, push up on the entire panel and the top edge will pop up and out. Reach around and remove the remaining wiring connectors while holding the panel a few inches away from the door. It helps to have someone hold the panel while doing this. Set panel aside and reconnect the window pod. You will need this to adjust the door mechanism to the right spot to work on. The window track rides on two plastic rollers that snap onto a little ball which is rivited to the scissor mechanism. These wheels tend to break or wear until they fall out of the track. Since you went through all the trouble of removing the door panel it's best to replace them rather than just pop them back in! Go back to AutoZone in the help isle and pick up two ($5/ea). Use whatever means necessary to pop the old wheel off. Bend the bottom of the track down a little and install the new wheel. Hold the metal ball in position and use a pair of channel locks to pop the ball into the wheel. It will go in HARD! Do not pry on the glass! Bend the track back up and reinstall everything back together. Use a light silicone lube in the track to keep things rolling. Test operation before reinstalling door panel. Good Luck!

6 to 8 quarts no more then 10 quarts

Approx. 185km/h

Try using a wrench.

the pressure at idle should be 40 to 44 psi

No spark would usually be the ignition coil.

The 1989 Chevrolet Caprice typically uses R-12 refrigerant for its air conditioning system, which requires about 2.5 to 3.0 pounds of freon. However, if the system has been retrofitted to use R-134a, the amount needed may vary slightly, usually around 2.0 pounds. It's always best to consult the vehicle’s service manual or a professional technician for precise specifications.

install 350 heads with bigger valves works well for more torque at lower speeds

on tbi engines 2 injectors 2 wires to 1 injector same to other on seqential inj 8 injectors 2 wires each 1wire fused positive feed other goes to ecu is then switched electronically on and off by ecu

Not long. 1 bolt on retainer & it just pulls out of block. Note firing order before you pull any wires. Find #1, go around cap terminals tracing them to each cylinder. Should be something like 1,8,5,3,6,4,7,2. Bump eng to tdc on damper so no. 1 firing. Use crank bolt & can do by hand (clockwise) Mark no 1 on cap. Note position of housing in relation to manifold & mark. Remove cap & note position of rotor to nearest ref point & mark. Now pull it & replace. When you drop it in the gears will mesh & will engage oil pump so will turn almost 1/4. Sometimes you have to turn oil pump slightly if it gets bumped. you can use a super long screwdriver & turn the slot.You may have to stab it in a few times to get it in right position. Now throw wires back on, start & set timing. have fun:)

You just unscrew both sides of the filter but be sure to have a container for all the gas that's gonna spill out. Put the other one on with the "out" facing toward the engine and screw tightly back together and test for any leaks immediately. The fuel filter is located under the car on the passenger side right under the doors. You need to depressuriize the lines first, but it didn't hurt me to slowly undo the fittings on the filter and let the fuel drop into a container. You also must undo the mountinf bolt (easy, just make sure you put it back).

1 mph = 1.609334 kph

so

90 * 1.609334 = 144.84096 kph

fuel pump

There is no easy way to answer that question. Most classics are so old that their reliability depends on how much work is put into them. I've had a few classic cars, and the best way to make sure they are reliable is to check everything and replace what is obviously won out or rusted etc etc....

I can tell you this though, few engines are as tough as the old ford flatheads of the 1920's.

GM has been putting "VIN Codes" on their motors since the 60's. The reason for this was security. If a car was stolen and disassembled it would make it easier for law enforcement to identify parts. That's why the vin is also located in several locations on the body as well. The VIN is located on a flat machined surface of the deck surface in front of the passenger side cylinder head. It is stamped into the block, not cast. Now, the casting number of the engine (which gives it no identity with a particular vehicle) is cast into the block on the transmission mounting crown behind the driver side cylinder head. If you are curious about what engine you have, you can just about be certain that your V-8 is a dished piston 305 with 64cc heads with 135HP. A few cars (9C1s and special order cars) had 350s in them which had 260HP and even fewer yet had 305s with flat top pistons and 155HP.

Around 3700-3900 lbs

5x115

yes

I don't doubt that someone makes a chip for the 305 but it will be expensive and you won't notice much difference. Here is the cheapest and easiest way to gain horsepower from your gutless 305. I am not busting your chops, I had a 1985 Caprice with a 305 and a 1992 Caprice with a 305.

Go an buy a K&N airfilter. These air filters kick class and will give you much more air intake which = horsepower. The air fliters cost me about $42 at Advance Auto. They also offer a K&N cold air system which replaces all the original air intakes with a healthy looking air sucker. From what I have read and heard, that gives you a dramatic increase in horsepower. I think they run around a hundred but I didn't check because I didn't know about them until after the fact.

Now to the down and dirty. To really add horsepower install a Flowmaster exhaust sytem. Flowmaster is the standard for performance exhausts. Plan to spend about a grand on that.

The bottom line is this, the 305CID, or as it is now known, the 5.0L Chevey engine was never much of a performance engine. It has small valves and a crappy cam so you can never expect much from them. If I wanted power I would drop about $4000 and buy a 350/350 crate motor but that would fry your TH-350 or 400 in short order.

An oil leak at the timing chain means that the seals are defective and must be replaced.

340.99 mph = 548.8 kph

This is a tough one, just pull the turn signal lever towards you until you hear a "click", now don't yank it out of the housing, pull it again to switch back to low, if you have a tilt wheel lower it a notch because in some cars it, (the hi-low beam) won't pull far enough to switch with the wheel up all the way. jr

you would need a tool which is called a pressure tester, if you see a leak from the water pump during the test then your water pump is bad and need to be replaced a.s.a.p

The PCV system is not pulling in fresh air to the engine.