Chevy G20

Drain the water from your 1988 Chevy cooling system. Remove the heater core water supply hoses. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. The heater core will come out.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/15/42/0900823d80171542/repairInfoPages.htm

In the distributor,you need to remove the dist cap & then remove the rotor and it will be mounted to the distributor housing

The fuel pump relay switch is located on a metal tang under the hood on the top center of the firewall. It's pretty much directly above the radiator area.

Here you go.

http://mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/index.php?bgInterchange=1&l=n

Put your specific info in and it will give you a diagram that should help.

how do you install new ignition switch on 1989 chevy G10 van?

pump costs 4-500 and it's on top of the tank which is about $400.00 labor

Check the fluid level. If the fluid level is OK, put the van in reverse on a parking lot and drive it around in reverse. Then try it to see if it will shift into 2nd. If it does shift then, it may be just a clogged filter. If it still will not shift into 2nd you may have to take it over to Cottman and have them check it out.

there is no fuel pump reset switch on this car.

I personally have blue converse and checkerboard vans, the checkerboard vans are better in my opinion because much less people have them and they make me feel cool :P

4.6

Most likely is to replace the cruise servo. Two vacuum lines, three screws, one linkage and one electrical and you are done. 10.00 from a junkyard or 90.00 from an online store and about 20 minutes of labor.

If this is a conversion van with wood trim on the panel you do the following:

1. Using a door handle spring clip tool remove the door handle spring clip and handle.

2. Start along the edge of the panel and work in one direction remove the upholstery buttons on the perimeter of the door.

3. Remove all but 1 trim screws around the door. Leave 1 trim screw attached at the top center to hold the panel during the next steps.

4. Remove the wooden trim block that houses both window and lock switches.

5. Carefully Pull away slightly and un-plug the connectors on the back of both switches.

6. Set the switch assembly to the side.

7. If equipped with arm rest on door then remove both attaching screws and set aside.

8. remove trim end caps on door grab handle if equipped.

9. Remove the screws and set grab handle aside.

10. You may now remove the last screw and pull the panel away from the door.

Transmission cooler is a good start to help it live a better longer life, but it doesn't add tow capacity. I need to know what motor, trans & gear ratio. If its 5.7 (350) with either the 4L60E or 700R4 with 3:42 or 3:73 gears GCW is about 6500 lbs. I gave you very common drivetrain for those vans for a ballpark.

Well, define 'fix'? If it is 'sticking', you can use white-lithium bearing grease injected (in moderation) with a 12-cc syringe (sans needle) into the mechanism from the outside. If it is 'stuck' in the open-door position, this is tough but fixable. First, you must remove the bolster, pull-handle, window crank and door unlock handles. Then, remove the half-door access panel, and with great-dexterity, disconnect the linkages and then unbolt the latching assembly, replacing it with a new unit (available at the body-shop that I would drop the vehicle off at to have them do this, anyhow).

If you have a door that is in the locked-position, this is a pain, bordering on nightmare. You will do all the steps above...but as the door will be shut, you will have to get into the inside of the door and open the latch using a combination of linkage bypass (hand-manipulate the throw while using some-force to push the door open), before you can unbolt the latch. Be aware, the latches on the 1995 G20's were recalled in late 1995...and if this was not serviced during the recall, then chances were that you have the bad ones...they failed, stuck, and overall caused problems.

I belive its a # 16 gague wire in side the link but don't belive everything. just cross reference the year of your van and use the advised fusable link. GM Changed the style of the starter in the late 80's early 90's from the old large style,to a smaller hi torque starter like the Hot Rodder's use.To save weight and increase MPG.

The Hi torque unit Should draw the same current or less but it may draw more always

check the manual.

25 gals

If you don't have a volt meter, you'll need one. Check the dash light and/or running light voltage at the switch. Make sure you have voltage THERE. If not, backtrack and see if there is voltage INTO that part of the switch. Dashboard and running lights usually have a different input and the headlights can work if the dash doesn't. If you have voltage into the dasboard circuit, you probably still have a bad switch. If there isn't any voltage present on the input side, you'll need a wiring diagram for your vehicle and start backtracking until you find voltage. It could still be a connector or wire somewhere between your switch and the fuse panel.

Begin by removing the water supply hoses from your 1989 Chevy heater core. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. The heater core can be removed.

Remove the head light cover plate, then remove head light braket, once you have done that pull the light out and un-plug it.

white smoke out tailpipe.............coolant in engine oil looks like a chocolate milkshake

5200lbs.

If it has the 5.7L 350 small block, 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2, clockwise.

everything is built into wiper motor including delay timer. there is a fuse you must check no relay.

don't no ,thats why i'm asking