Chevy G20

Should be under the drivers seat its not under any of the seats

I had a Chevy van of this vintage and I found a vacum hose leak in the controls that would make the heater/defrost door default too defrost open. lisining carefully under dash or under hood may pinpoint leak.

I had a Chevy van of this vintage and I found a vacum hose leak in the controls that would make the heater/defrost door default too defrost open. lisining carefully under dash or under hood may pinpoint leak.

15-16 mpg w/4.3 lt v6 automatic and short wheelbase

on bottom of motor

ON ALL Chevy engines, the starter is located on the lower right

side of the engine ( left side if you're looking from the front of the vehicle ).

below the exhaust manifold. They are usually mounted with 2 bolts either

from the bottom of the starter or 2 bolts throught the transmission housing.

Older model engines require a 9/16ths wrench or socket . Newer models use

a 14mm wrench or socket for removal.

To Reset the security system you disconnect the battery for 5 min

then reconnect it. make sure you have your remote or access to the controls

because the alarm will sound when the battery is reconnected. when it sounds hit the off button make sure you retighten the battery cables correctly and your good to go.

You can also reset the alarm system by disconecting the power to the alarm it's self

if you know which wires are for the alarm. There will be one wire that's constant 12v

that's the one that should be disconnected, there is also a 12v switched that connects to

your ignation wireing . This wire is how the alarm knows when your starting the van

or turning it off.

to change all freeze plugs on any engine is expensive, as the engine and transmission need to be split to get at pluigs behind flywheel.sometimes the engine needs to be removed freon vehicle to get at others

It is overfilled do not drive it until this is fixed!!!!

When you change the fluid you never get it all out so, you cannot put the book's recommended amount back in.

For next time measure how much comes out and put that much back in

Have fun!

Drop the steering column and you will see the clip that retains the switch to the brake pedal shaft, the switch also clamps on to the linkage that goes to the master cylinder. Pop the clip on the brake pedal, swing the switch down off the linkage and slide it to the left and it will come off. If the switch was not clamped to the linkage this will cause the switch not to work. I've also found the slightest amount of play on the shaft will cause it to work intermitent, wrapping the switch in place with packing tape works great.

Well, technically, I don't need to know where the fuel filter is since I don't have a Chev Van... but, if it's like my 94 pickup I'd assume it to be on the drivers side about halfway between the fuel tank and the engine, tucked into the frame. Be careful when you loosen the fittings, fuel is under pressure and will spray you and that stuff really burns when it gets in your eyes.

its not there i have a 94 Chevy g20 and the fuel filter is locater on passinger side right behind the gastank

Apparently there isn't one. My horns had frozen diaphragms, and beating them up with a hammer solved the problem. Here is a more complete answer by RFXK (1017/06): I had this same problem and went crazy looking for a bad relay. Apparently there ISN'T a horn relay for the G-20. Probably you have one of two problems, frozen diaphragms in the horn units, or corroded contacts on their housings. For the diaphragms, take a regular hammer and give each horn a dozen firm taps - rattle them good and hard. Then try again. This is what worked for me this past weekend. For the contacts, take the connectors off (expect to lose a little skin doing it), and use a tiny wire brush to scrap the corrosion off the tab on the horn housing (both horns). One of those tiny mirrors on a flex stick helps you see what's going on - the tabs are brilliantly located in their most inaccessible orientation. Use a tiny screwdriver to scrap the metal contacts in the connectors a few times. Apply a TINY amount of dielectric grease to the tabs (it's not conductive, so don't get dumb about it) and put the connectors back on. If it isn't either of these, either no power is getting to the horn, or both horns are croaked. You can check the power situation by running a clip-on from the tab of either horn and touching the other end to the positive battery lead (make sure you're making good contact at both ends). If the horn beeps, then you probably have a broken wire or (less likely) the switches in the steering wheel are bad. If no beep, probably bad horns. Good luck!

check with the dealership there was a recall to replace the switch for free! I had mine replaced...tombo

In the fuel tank.

This is an unusual problem. Best to start with a new gage to verify the oil pressure.

31 gallons

Its in the engine compartment ( but sometimes not ), the owners manual, in the haynes or chiltons manual, or online at autozone.com

its 1 bulb. all u need is a Philips head screw driver. unscrew the part of the grill that covers the lights. unscrew the lights from the holder. the light easily unplugs. take 5 min tops

The easiest is to disconnect all the usual things, and drop the subframe from the van.

Older engines have the dipstick on the driver's side. There is a hole in the side of the block between 5 & 7. Newer ones have the dipstick tube in the passenger side of the oil pan.

I don't know but cannot get mine to go out, bakes are fine , any ideas?

It comes out the left side,towards the rear of the tranny. The metal line runs up on top of the transmission to a port behind the throttle body. Other vacuum line are also connected to that port.

# Disconnect the battery ground cable. # Remove the engine cover. # Remove the steering column to instrument panel bolts. Lower the column carefully. # Remove the upper and lower instrument panel attaching screws. Remove the radio support bracket screw. # Raise and support the right side of the instrument panel. # Remove the lower right instrument panel bracket. # Remove the vacuum actuator from the kick panel. # Disconnect the temperature cable and vacuum hoses at the case. Remove the heater distributor duct from over the engine hump. # Remove the two defroster duct to firewall attaching screws below the windshield. # Under the hood, disconnect and plug the heater hoses at the firewall. # Remove the three nuts and one screw (inside) holding the heater case to the firewall. # Remove the case from the truck. Remove the gasket for access to the screws holding the case together. Remove the temperature cable support bracket. Remove the screws and separate the case. Remove the heater core. # Reverse the procedure for installation. Refill the cooling system as necessary.

6600 lbs

Fill the transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick tube, which is under the hood next to the air intake. Remove the dipstick and use a funnel with a small opening and be careful not to overfill the transmission.

I'd start by checking for bad sparkplugs/wires, burned valves or a vacuum leak.

Pull the plugs, ONE AT A TIME, and inspect them for damage or carbon fouling. If you haven't replaced the plugs in a long time, just do it.

While a plug is out, screw a compression gauge into the cylinder and have someone crank the engine for you. That piston should come up to compression at least three or four times, watch the gauge, you'll be able to tell when that happens.

BTW, disconnect the coil so that the engine doesn't try to start when you're doing this.

If you replace all of the plugs and wires, the compression is up and even and the engine still runs rough, start looking for a vacuum leak. It could be a vacuum line, the EGR valve (it's on the intake manifold, just to the drivers side of the throttle body), or a bad gasket.

I've got a '92 w/ the 350 and it's getting 13mpg. What are you getting?