Chevy Impala

I HAVE A 2000 IMPALA LS. I HAD THIS PROBLEM ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND I HAD TO HAVE THE CRANK AND MODULE SENSORS REPLACED. THE PRICE OF THE CRANK SENSOR IS ABOUT $60 BUT I'M NOT SURE ABOUT THE MODULE SENSOR. IN ALL,INCLUDING THE LABOR,I WAS OUT OF ABOUT $180-$200. Crankshaft sensor is the culprit; I had the exact problem.

The Chrevrolet Impala SS (Mid 90's) is faster than the Crown Victoria (even the P-71s), While the CV P71 boasts a modest 8.1-8.6 sec. 0-60 time and low to mid 16 sec. 1/4 mi (post 1998 models...9 1/2 sec. and 17 1/2 sec. for pre-1998), the bowtie v-8 in the impala SS cranks out a low 7 second 0-60 and a mid 15 second 1/4 mile The 2004-2005 Impala SS will also beat the current CVPI. It has more hp/torque and is considerably lighter (about 500lbs). The 0-60 is about 6.9 and 1/4 mile is 15.4 The new 300hp 2006 Impala SS will smoke the CVPI in reverse. It's a shame that Chevy decided to make it FWD. Eh, at least it'll be safer to drive in slick conditions. The 2000-2005 standard Imps are no match for the current CVPI, although those 9C1/9C3 Imapalas will beat it off the line for about 50 yards due to their lighter weight. These police package Imps are equiped with the heavy-duty tranny that is also featured in the SS. It has higher gearing and a wider final drive ratio. If modified with a modest turbocharger package, those Imps can run low 11s on the 1/4.

the basic engine 250-ci V6 is rated at 145hp and the 400ci V8 at 170hp

If its in real nice condition its worth about $2500 bucks, call me I will give you cash The condition of the car, what engine, & what options all determine the value. The value of a drivable 1958 Corvette can be from $25,000 to over a $100,000. I will list a link, where you pick your options and get an estimate of the value. This car is so very rare that the value is really what someone will pay.

I get 300 miles on full tank, this is based on mainly highway driving(70mph) and some in town driving.

Low coolant Cooling fan not working Bad thermostat Plugged or dirty radiator collapsing hoses defective radiator cap (common problem for this vehicle) system airbound water pump not working to full capacity Or, most likely, the catalytic converter has failed and clogged the exhaust and caused the intake manifold to melt. Chevy issued a letter in 2005 to this effect. I believe the letter stated that Chevy would replace the catalytic converter at no charge if the car is less than 10 years old or has less than 110,000 miles. Call your Chevy dealer ASAP and have it replaced. Unfortunately, from my experience, Chevy will not pay for all the damage caused by this catalytic converter design flaw. So you'll most likely be stuck with the repair costs for the damage caused by the melted intake manifold.

The steering pump is attached with 2 bolts. If you take the top bolt out and loosen the bottom bolt until it's almost completely out, you can move the pump/pulley enough to snake that bottom left water pump bolt out.

Check the label on the driver's door jamb. That is the factory recommended pressure.

The blower motor speed resister is burned out. This part is available from your local auto parts store.

On the rear driver side fender. Remove the tire and the shield.

my heater doesn't work in my 04 Chevy impala. My coolant levels are correct, and this still does not correct the problem. Could it possibly be the coil in the dash. If not what could problem be?

no way.

No, the chevelle isn't as wide as the impala, you would have to get a rear end from a full sized Pontiac or olds.

The cost of a 63 Impala is around $30,000. One could buy a 63 Impala from Hagerty, Oodle, Collector Car Market, Car Gurus, eBay, Cars for Sale, and Edmunds.

1. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON and the radio to off. Do not crank the engine.

2. Press and hold the DISP button on the radio for at least five seconds until settings is displayed.

3. Press the SEEK up or down arrows until FOB PROG appears on the display.

4. Press the PREV or NEXT button to enter the submenu. The current selection will have an

asterisk next to it. BEGIN will be displayed.

5. Press the DISP button to start programming. When the message PUSH FOB flashes, press and

hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter at the same time for 15 seconds. A

chime will be heard to verify the transmitter is learned.

6. Repeat Step 5 for each additional transmitter up to four remotes total. You do not need to press

the DISP button again, just press down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the next transmitter

to be learned to a maximum of four transmitters per vehicle.

The mode you selected is now set. You can either exit the programming mode by following the instructions later in this section or program the next feature available on your vehicle.

EXIT (Exit Feature Customization Mode): This feature allows you to exit the vehicle customization programming.

To Exit:

1. Scroll until EXIT appears on the display.

2. Press the DISP button to exit programming. A chime will he heard to verify the exit.

5-6 bottles

Can a 2011 Chev Impala be flat towed

It's a bit involved but definitely a DIY project. You'll save $$ and with that money you really should get a Haynes manual. Heck, even a library has it or the Chilton's. Basically, you need to get the battery out and the air cleaner box - at least the part that's in the way. The fans/shroud comes out first. There was a bolt on each side and two on top. Those two on top go into clips which will likely drop down out of place once you remove the bolt/bracket and it's difficult, if not impossible, to get both into place again when you put the shroud back on. I smeared some JB Weld along the bottom of each clip to hold it there permanently. Wait till the mixture gets a little tacky first before applying. Also, there's a plastic push pin holding the shroud to the radiator on the bottom on the driver's side (look through one of the holes down there). It's easy to get out; use a small needle nose vise grips to push the pin back in - it really can be done. Pull clip off that is in center of shroud. Disconnect the two plugs going to the fan motors. Those plastic clamps holding the cable in place can remain. When you pull the shroud out, just rest it on the right side of the engine, there's enough cable slack to do that. Transmission cooler lines - pull back the plastic piece first. Then you'll see a wire clip inserted part way around the quick-connect. Pry that out. Try not to break it, you may need them. My new radiator had new ones installed even though Delphi said they weren't included. I think now you can just lift up the radiator. Take the rubber mounts off the bottom to reuse.

Every 3,000 miles

Ford recommends every 5,000 miles with normal oil or synthetic blend. You can go up to 7,000 if you use full synthetic.

Most likely you have a inoperative oxygen exhaust senser .Depending on your car,you have two for sure,up stream and down stream .Usually one is located on the right exhaust comming down from the exhaust manifold and another past the catalistic converter. You might have another one located on the left exhaust comming down off the exhaust manifold.These are expensive to replace "BY GUESSING" which one. No way to tell which one it is,unless you are advanced auto home repair,and have a manual for your car ..(HAYNES, ADVANCED AUTO STORES) and understand how to do it the inexpensive way. I purchased a CODE READ OUT module, and for each car i have owned,i have purchased a HAYNES repair manual for it. HAve a friend that has some good knowledge to guide you along.Once you spend the money for the code read out,over time it will pay for its self by you NOT having to take your car into the shop to have it hooked up to a computer to find the trouble code.That alone is usually $75.00. The oxygen sensors can cost any where from 47.00 to 90.00.each. If i have burdened you with this info,settle back and relax,this is not a difficult task.The trouble code finder can cost you 130.00 for a excellent one that you can operate with no problem.Just follow instructions that come with the trouble code finder and look through your repair manual. You not only save money also you are learning about your car and many ways to keep it in excellent operating condition. Take your time and enjoy.

Probably the trany cooler in the rad has let go. If this is the case then the coolant is in the trany also. check the trany for coolant and if it is you will need a trany very soon. I've tried flushing the trany when this has happened in the past and have yet to save a trany. Usually within 3-6 week the trany stops working.

The 3.9 liter Chevy engine oil filter can be found on the left-hand side of the engine. The oil filter will be near the oil pan.

454 cubic inches = 7,439.73 cubic centimeters = 7,439.73 milliliters = 7.43973 liters

The IAC is located on the throttle body. Simply unplug the dirty IAC and clean or replace the IAC.

Between the grille and the radiator, on the passenger's side, in line with the top engine mount(dog bone). Access is by removing the panel that surrounds the hood release latch...