Chrysler Sebring

DOT3 is recommended

1. Remove the front left tire. (drivers side)

2. Find a plastic cover with a battery picture on it inside the wheel well. (on your left)

3. Remove the cover to reveal the battery.

4. Remove battery.

upsteam sensor may be in the exhaust manifold,down stream is after the cat., in the exhaust pipe.

maybe ignition modual

Car Cranks great but won't turn over, have checked fuel pump. I would start with checking the sensors. Cam, Crank, or egc if it is not showing any Codes.

I had same problem with my Sebring, thought it was either the fuel pump, distributor, crank/cam censor. Took it to the shop and it was the distributor. May want to check it out. If you cant hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key on it may be a bad fuel pump.

Unlock the door with the key or the remote.

In front of the left front tire.

The Chrysler Sebring knock sensor is located in the engine valve or cylinder located at the back of the motor. This part is in this position next to the engine valve so the sensor can feel the vibration of the engine.

It doesn't have one.

There is no drain plug. You remove the pan to drain.

It is part of the distributor and is not serviceable separately.

I looked under my Pacifica, and it looks like youneed a special tool. the tensioner pulley leaves very little room for what I used on other cars: a 3/8" drive ratchet. why the pulley is so close to the frame is one the same questions I have asked myself for years about American engineering. This is why the japs are kicking our ass!

4 steps 35 ft lbs 50 ft lbs 50 ft lbs - (again) then 1/4 turn Start with bolt in center nearest front of car then the center bolt nearest the firewall. The third bolt in the sequence is the next to the right then the bolt to the front, then over to the left of the first bolt in the sequence. Keep working in a clockwise rotation ending with the bolt closest to the passenger side firewall as #10 10 6 2 3 7 9 5 1 4 8

2.4L, 2.7L have a chain. 3.5L has a belt.

2.4L, 2.7L have a chain. 3.5L has a belt.

You add transmission fluid down the dipstick tube under the hood.

With a scan tool, at a parts store (ie Autozone does it for free), or possibly by cycling ignition key on, off, on, off, on and counting the blinks.

It is part of the pump module in the fuel tank.

If you are aking about the timing marks on the belt/chain. Then yes.

If you are aking about the timing marks on the belt/chain. Then yes.

It is on the side of the oil pan.

Jack the car up and put it on jackstands. take off the right front wheel. remove the plastic cover from the alternator belt by pulling out the little plastic buttons. loosen the idler pully and take off the serpentine belt. drain the radiator (you may want to skip this step and just let the coolant come out when you pull off the goose neck because I had to pull the nose off the car to reach the valve on the bottom of the radiator). the nose cowl comes off easily though by removing three screws in each fenderwell and all the plastic button fasteners (about ten or twelve) then pull the cowl straght forward off the locater dogs to remove it and unplug the fog lights if any. then you can get to the radiator drain valve. remove the electrical connections from the alternator(my son called it a "amputator") and the three bolts that hold on the alternator and pull it out. It comes out the top if you move the wire harness to the side(rear actually). the thermostat cover is on the block behind the alternator. pull three bolts and voila. put the thermostat in spring-toward-the-engine and ball bearing valve at the top. do not overthighten the housing(gooseneck for us older guys) because its plastic, also because there is a nice rubber seal instead of the old paper and goo type gasket. Open the bleeder screw on top of the engine passenger side( it is by the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) and fill the system back up with 50/50 water/ethylene glycol antifreeze. see if you can borrow or buy one of those tools that pump up your radiator to check for leaks(it snaps on where the radiator cap goes and has a hand pump) (you'll know why I say this after you shoehorn the alternator out) stock up on socket swivels because the bottom bolts on the goose neck and alternator are hard to get to. and get a good mirror. I had to dust off my swear word dictionary too. I thought the thermostat was supposed to go on top of the engine not down where the frost plugs are supposed to be. if any Chrysler engineers are reading this...thanks (not) Hey bud. I understand about half of what you tried to explain about changing the thermostat. I have worked on so many cars since I was about 7-8 years old, now turning 44. It is very hard to work on these newer model cars. I think that most guys don't understand the terms that you use......trying to help. But, "frost plugs, goose neck and nose cowl" have even left my memory. They are probably much younger and don't understand what you mean. I know you have very good intentions. Thank you very much. You helped me...but try to keep it just a little more simple for the young guys. Thanks, your advice helped me. Rick

I have a 2002 LXi convertible with a 2.7 liter engine I just changed the air filter on. It is a bit of a PITA to do, because there is not a lot of room in there, but overall not too bad. On my car there are no bolts or clamps to loosen to get to the a cover off the air filter housing to get to the filter. Instead, on the engine side of the housing where the air boot/hose goes into the filter housing there are two tabs on the boot/hose. You will need to press these in to pull the air filter out. On my 2.7 LXi, there isn't a lot of room, so using a screwdriver, I loosened the band on the air intake to the engine, took the boot/hose off the engine intake, CAREFULLY (the tabs tend to catch on things) moved it under wires hoses, etc, pushed the tabs in and with some CAREFUL maneuvering pulled the boot and air filter out. It does take some wiggling and a lot of double checking to make sure you aren't bumping into stuff. The air filter is a cylinder which plugs into the boot/hose. I found I had to partially insert the new filter into the filter housing to have room to be able to insert the new filter into the boot/hose. Then it is a matter of CAREFULLY maneuvering everything back in place, re-attaching the hose to the engine intake and tightening the band down. One last caution, make sure when you tighten the band you keep the screw accessible for the next time. My 2.4 Liter 2002 Sebring has essentially the same procedure, although there is more room.

right

Inside the driver side fender, in front of the tire.

It doesn't have one.

If you are talking about the 2.7 V-6 engine continue. If not you must specify which engine cause they are different. If you are standing at the front of car, it is on the backside of the lower engine drivers side. The transmission dipstick handle is right above it. Looks like a right angle black connector attached with only one metric bolt. The wires go into a heat sheilded harness up the drivers side of engine into the top plastic cover. This thing is below all those hoses and wires at about elbow distance. A real bear to get to. If you are changing it you have to do it by feel cause once your arm is in you cant see it anymore. If the differential wasnt directly below it would be easy to get from the bottom of car.

On my 2001 LXi coupe, it is in the grill, at the top right.