Could be bad joints in the steering shaft, could also be bad tie-rod ends.

you need to replace the egr valve it is located on top of the motor on the left side you need to replace the egr valve it is located on top of the motor on the left side. Most of the time it is the vacuum lines that come off the EGR valve that makes the check engine light come on. I changed my EGR valve and the engine light is still on with a code that said low vacuum check out full size bronco.com they can answer any question you have

I'd say, either the window actuator arm broke or (more probable) the two little plastic gears that are part of the motor are worn out. The motor turns but the gears are damaged. That's a common problem - if the actuator arms are fine, try changing the gears (very cheap to buy).

A better answer would be that the nylon pieces inside the gear head are worn down and broken. you need to remove the motors and repair or replace them. Autozone has repair kit for $25 I think. I fixed several by cutting bolt heads off and putting the pieces (3) into the gear slots, but I'm sure that's a health risk for kids.

Take off the door panel...watch out for that light wire... in the middle of the door twards the front is the motor...window up or down does not matter... if this is the 1st time the motor has been removed you will have to drill 2 holes...look its even marked..don't know why the factory didnt drill them? anyway make the holes big enough that its easy to get a nut driver into the area. Remove the 3 bolts and drop out the motor ...unclip the electric pigtail and find a work bench. remove the 1 Phillips screw and flip over the motor....there is a pinched area in 2 or 3 places that you just need to tap with a flathead and a hammer a bit to allow the plate to slide off. lift out the damaged pieces and replace the 3 spacers with the store bought ones or headless bolts like I used. I add some grease to make it stick together and work longer. then reassemble ...tap the bent areas together ... don't matter 2 much cause when you reattach it they will be pushed together. you can hook it up and test it before you put it back in. hope this helps someone save some $$

You need to first swing the spare tire out of the way, roll the window all the way down then just lift the handle that is on the inside.

take the kick panel off on the passenger side and you will find it there

15 inches

There are four ways to find a ratio.

1 A dealer can normally tell from the vin number.

2 There are normally tags or labels on the axle that have part number, gear ratio, and fluid requirement

info.

3 You can count how many times you have to turn the driveshaft to get one complete turn of the tires.

4 You can divide the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by number of teeth on the pinion.

sss

You should be able to see the plug on the gearbox it is oval in shape and should use a hex bolt to undo when you actually take it out it is about 4 inches long with spiral grouves to catch on all the gears. Hope it helps

Yep.

225

1. Clogged fuel filter?

2. Fouled spark plugs?

3. Clogged fuel injector(s)?

4. Faulty plug wires? Check for stray sparks while the engine is idling in total darkness.

5. Does this help any?

No just put them on. If they were bad they could be sued for a defective product.

Actually Honda/Acura specify that NEW rotors be "refinished" with an on-car brake lathe...

hes a speical costume for christie montearo 1st get 500.00 or 500.000 then go to costimize mode then choose christie then buy that speical costume wen trying eddy out find christie then press triangel then eddy will be there

I have a '89 Bronco with a '96 f150 5.0 302L. I had to disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifold, remove the mounting bolts below the engine, (2 on each side) then lift the engine about 4 inches. I also had to remove the plenum (that's the thing that has 5.0 EFI carved into the top of it that your throttle body attaches to on top of the engine) in order to be able to lift it high enough. It's a good idea to drain the oil and loosen your oil pan bolts first. After you lift the engine, you need to place some blocks in between the engine mounts and the engine itself to hold it up. Then you bring the jack back down. remove the bolts. There should be an arm on each side that the bolts go through to keep them from being able to torque the oil pan edge when you retighten the bolts. I had to replace my oil pan, and when I did, I also went ahead and replaced the oil pan pump and filter. I'd rather go ahead and do it all once than have to do it again. It's a pain in the rump. Also, don't lift the engine by itself. Use a plank of wood or something to keep the engine and trannie in line when you lift it. I had to set my jack up about 10 inches off the floor to get it to raise the engine up high enough. Hope this helps. Ben

It depends on whether you are filling it with pennies, dollar coins or $100 bills, for instance. The amount will vary considerably!

A throwback park legend who is rated 52 overall basketball player who is attending reavis and is going to duke next year.

Around 2000 dollars

Under the passenger side kick panel under the dash.

it should be behind the front wheel on top it has 2 wires running to it.

first off you need a 4.0litre engine, go with a high output one from a 93 or 94 if you can find it, engine mounts are different along with a tranny, transfer case, beef up the drivelines and axels when you do it as well, wiring harness, look for a "totalled" jeep Cherokee with the same specs as your wrangler, ie automatic or manual tsnamissions, and find one with a tranny transfer case and engine in a triple combo, check em all out for the goods then swap it over, might take the axles and drivelines from that same jeep you got the triple combo out of too if they are salvagable. good luck youre gonna need some time.