Bad stepper motor in instrument cluster. Very common problem. Search for "speedometer whizard" in Google.
The temp sensor is located on the intake manifold
More than likely it is a C-6.
If it is the same as my 83, which it probably is, or at least very similar, remove the inside panel and right near the center towards the top end of the tailgate (top being where window comes out) should be the motor. Mine was only connected with 3 5/16" bolts. Take those off, then use a little muscle to wrestle the motor loose.
its located where the tranny bolts up to the motor. disconnect the three wires from the starter, then take the three bolts out of the starter and pull it out. just remember where the wires go!!
You could possibly get up to about a 35 but the safest bet is 33.
If the vents stop blowing when gas is applied, it is likely a vacuum problem. The vent system is controlled by vacuum, so when the engine is under load, there isn't enough vacuum to run the vents. How you test this is when the problem occurs, the fan will still be blowing air, however the flow of air will be out your window defrost vents at the top front of the dash. On a 1995 vehicle, it's likely just some of your vacuum lines are broken, and need replaced or repaired.
Low vacuum. When you push down on the accelerator, vacuum decreases. Your Blower doors use vacuum to change positions from floor to vent to defrost. Have a vacuum test done on the vehicle. You may have a vacuum leak, or this may be a sign the engine is getting weak.(Low compression, Leaking valves, etc.)
Its all on the passenger side... under the hood remove the clamps for the 2 hoses ...this is on the upper side close to the blower motor... the rest of the work is on the inside... open the glove box and push on the 2 tabs that hold it in and remove the entire glove box...this will give you some space to see ...an electric screwdriver is good here... under the dash you will see the umm plentum i think its called...anyway its roundish and black plastic.. just take out the screws (7 i think)... the control valve may get in the way if so just take out the screws for it also....the heater core is just behind that and just pulls out... if its stuck some... a kinda tar seal... just go back under the hood and push on the tubes it will come out. install in reverse order.. pretty simple .... after all is done and you added water to refill the radiator just be sure to run it hot and look under the hood for any leaks near those hoses
If fuel pump is electric, is it wired correctly? Did you install fuel filter correctly (they are designed so fuel only travels in one direction, if it's on backward, fuel will not flow to engine.) You dont state year...engine... so on... i assume since u said "both pumps" that this is a fuel injected truck.... so spray starter fluid in the intake while an assistant tries to start it. if it starts then you have narrowed down the problem (take out spark and timing issues)..
lets say you got it to start..some... check that fuel is getting to the fuel rail...there is a valve...like a tire inflater valve on the fuel rail... press a small screwdriver in and see if fuel flows out...
if not ... fix that
(do you hear the fuel pump hum from the gas tank when the key is turned on..not cranking just on...open the gas cap and put ur ear up to the hole when the assistant turns the key on...should hear it for 4 seconds or so) ... if yes then i would go 2 places....1 ..ouch... computer is not working right and injectors are not firing.... 2 and its a strange one... the return fuel line is pinched or blocked .... this line allows excess fuel to return to the fuel tank.... 2 much pressure and the injectors wont fire.... hope this helps
wheel balance is probably needed also check the u-joints vibrations can travel and give false sense of where they are coming from could also be a bent wheel
You need to buy the proper tool, its 2 solid wire shaped like a horse shoe with small balls on the ends. Take both u-shaped tools and insert them into the four holes and push in and the pull the whole unit out.
*Cut a coathanger bend it so you have 2 U shapes and use that, it's difficult but it can be done.
-Fen
you can use lots of block wood to make it look like a actual ball yard
Mine does the same thing. It will turn over and over and may or may not start. It always will eventually start, but if it hasn't cranked after 10-12 seconds of metal on metal turn over, I wait about 10-15 seconds and it fires right off. I have no idea, have checked vapor lock, starter, battery, fuel pump, etc. If you get any answers, email hump860@charter.net. Good luck.
I was having the same problem. But, come to find out it was the ECM Processor which is located behind the parking break. You will have to remove the steering column to get to it. The processor may have shorted out because i had checked the relay voltage and got 12 volts. But, then checked the inertia switch which is located behind the passenger kick panel and the voltage was only half so that told me that there was something wrong in the wiring before it gets to the inertia switch ( shut off switch).
So if you are having problems getting it to start have your EEC tested. It may be faulting out or may have a short in it.
You have to have a spanner wrench. One you have that, remove the safety ring, use your spanner wrench, and it comes right off.
Try Wd 40 in the left and right guides
How_do_you_change_the_dash_bulbs_on_a_1995_Ford_Broncohear how it is done in a 92-96
It is located under the driver side headlight.
it can be in two places either the fender well on the passengers side or on the
starter . you can go down to auto parts store and they can show you a picture
of what it looks like and they cost as low as $14 to $21 and take about 10 min
to install.
my trany keeps shifting when im driveing shifts up and down
The short answer is you can. The question is should you. When you do a body lift it raises the body off the frame with longer bolts and tall bushings that are much weaker than a strong, short bolt and bushing. You end up running the risk of shearing the body right off the frame in an accident or strong impact while off roading. With all the suspension lift options out there really isn't much reason to do it. If your truck is for on road use and only light off road its ok to do. If not You'll probably end up with the body sideways on the frame.
As general rule speed sensors on cars were always located in the gearbox or automatic transmission. This would be the first place to start, however modern transmissions have the sensors built in and its unlikely they are user changeable.
you unscrew it from the steering colum but the real question is WHERE DO YOU BUY AN "UPPER IGNITION ACTUATOR"?