Ford Escape XLS

In my 2004 T&C it is a 20 amp fuse (Green) in the black box on the driver side front fender, It is labeled IOD. Normally in the under hood fuse box.

Tighten the valve cover retaining bolts in sequence, torque them to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

the fuse box is located in floorboard on drivers side. the fuse relay box is located under hood on drivers side.

On a Ford Escape , 3.0 liter V6 engine :

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

On a 2002 Ford Escape , 3.0 liter V6 engine :

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

I was looking at the 2003 Ford Escape Owner Guide and it does not show

anything about it having a Tire Pressure Monitoring System

The 2005 Ford Escape has a 5-speed manual.

There are many aspects to consider when considering the safety of home tanning beds. First of all there is the danger of over-tanning, since there is nothing to prevent you from doing this. As with any electric device, in order to prevent fires, you also have to make sure that your device is well maintained. http://www.mastertanning.com/tips/34/find-a-home-tanning-bed-for-your-needs/

The 2005 Ford Escape owners manual shows : 4.5 quarts with filter change for the 2.3 L - 4 cylinder engine

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape V6 ( driver > )

Looking up from oil filter and catalytic converter as the place to look from the number is stamped on the edge. Torch is needed.

Depends what is wrong with the transmission, and the condition. If it is something major like gears needing replaced ($250+), your looking at a lot more money. Possibly transmission fluid needs replaced for easier smoother shifting, which is no big deal ($5-10). Hopefully the whole thing will not need to be replaced or your looking at a few thousand dollars!

The 2005 Ford Escape has 53.4 in. of front hip room.

Cylinder #5 is the middle cylinder on the front or left bank.

I believe 2002 thru 2008 are the same. Turn your windshield wipers off so they stop up on the windshield, not in their home position. Open the hood. On the Right hand side of the engine compartment ( left hand as you stand facing the car ) at the point where the firewall and windshield come together you will see the plastic cover that must be removed. This cover goes from the right hand fender to the middle of the windshield. Near the windshield you will see (4) plastic plugs that are just under 1/2" in diameter. These covers must be popped out of their pocket to get at the Phillips head screw that is underneath - I used a pointed scriber to pop them out. Remove the Phillips head screws. I had to lift the hood up off the support rod to get the screw driver at the screw nearest the fender. Also on this plastic cover you will find (4) plastic screws that must be removed. Then pull out the little expansion plugs that held these (4) screws. You are now ready to remove the outside cover. Under here you will see another cover that you lift up slightly and pull toward the front of the car. This will expose the filter compartment, and hopefully a slightly used filter that needs changing. I had a bit of a shock at this point. There was no old filter in the compartment. I don't know if it did not have one from the factory of if I paid for one during a service stop that I did not get. My car is an 06 with 30,000 miles. Good luck and I hope this will help you.

Jim W.

I recently bought a Mercury Mariner Hybrid 2007, and I was replacing all the filters, including cabin air filter. I surprisingly noticed that the cabin air filter compartment was empty; the same thing that Jim noticed. Anyhow, I wanted to install the air filter that I purchased, it didn't fit! I tried different models of air filters, still the same issue. Anyone else with the same issue?

Pez

The STP CAF1755 Fits and my 2005 did not have one either.

To find the Ford Escape V6 thermostat, located the top radiator hose. Trace the hose to the location where it meets the water pump. Inside the hose at this location is where the thermostat is located.

Take a coat hanger, break it into four parts, insert the four hanger parts into the square slots on the 4 corners of the radio simulatanously and pull the radio out.

I did this change a couple of years ago. remove the glove box. The filter is behind there, but a bad design requires some framing members to be unscrewed to allow the filter to come straight towards back of car. This took me a bit of time I remember.

Trouble code P0302 means:Cylinder 2 misfire detected

4 qrts w/ filter

Disassembly is not trivial. Go here: http://www.krausebooks.com/category/firearms_knives and buy the Gun Digest Assembly/Disassembly Vol IV book for Sporting Rifles. This book will tell you what you need.

Go to the following site,www.escape-central.com/1forum/showthread.php?s=d75fde45023782974a45a8e12cf8ddd1&threadid=31350 and see if this answers your question.

In the fuse box

What engine does it have? 2.0L - 3.0L?

4-wheel drive - 2-wheel drive?

Call your local ford dealer or the local autoparts store. & They should be able to help you. Don't forget to pick-up a manual written just for your escape. This a great help for alot of small repairs & mantaince.

I just replaced the water pump on my 2003 Escape. Here are the details. My model is a XLT with 4 wheel drive and the 3.0 engine (6 cylinder). If you have a 2003 you need to check the mfg sticker in the driver's door jamb for the manufacture date. It is given in month/year. Mine is 06/03. This is important because in April of 2003 Ford started using a different water pump. They look the same from the outside but the blades are different and the older model will not work on cars manufactured 04/03 and on. I bought my pump at AutoZone for about $52. I also purchased a new thermostat and gasket as well as some gasket sealer and a new water pump belt.

NOTE: I elected to not drain the radiator. I just used a catch pan for spilled coolant while changing out pump then reused the coolant. You may want to drain radiator at start then refill at end.

Disconnect battery (negative first then positive).

Remove the bolts holding the skid plate on the driver's side. I left the fastener furthest back in the wheel well in place and just pulled the skid plate to the side. This gives you room to place a catch pan under the water pump.

Place a couple large towels (makes for easier clean up) and a catch pan (available at parts store) directly below pump.

Remove the plastic engine cover.

Pull the plastic pipe that runs from front valve cover to snorkel to rear valve cover. I pulled it off the front valve cover and the snorkel and moved it the left. It is just a push on/pull off piece but do it gently.

Remove the water pump belt by pushing the top of the belt tensioner back towards the large crank pulley and then lift belt off. No tool was required.

Disconnect the two hoses next to the water pump (just disconnect the ends next to the pump and use bungee cords if you have them to hold the hoses out of the way). I used channel lock pliers to squeeze OEM clamps open (I replaced these with traditional clamps when I put the hoses back on). If you placed the pan in the correct spot you will catch most of the coolant that comes out (adjust pan if necessary).

Remove the front of the thermostat housing. This is the plastic piece the lower hose was attached to. There are three bolts. After removing the front piece reach in and pull out the old thermostat and gasket.

Disconnect the electrical connector located below the thermostat housing. Push the release tab in the center while pulling.

You should now have room to remove the water pump bolts. The pump is held to a housing by 5 bolts. In addition, there are 3 longer bolts that pass through the pump and housing and hold them to the block. Some of these bolts can be hard to get a socket on. I used a combination of a 3/8 and ¼ socket wrenches and a 1 ½ inch extension. Once all the bolts were out I pulled the pump and gasket out of the housing.

Make sure the housing surface where the new gasket will go is clean. Take the new pump (TURN IT BY HAND AND MAKE SURE IT SPINS) and apply a thin layer of gasket sealer to it then press the new gasket on it. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer to the other side of the gasket. Make sure the bolt threads are clean (use a wire brush to clean if necessary) and press the new pump into the housing and secure with the bolts. The Alldata spec for the bolts is 89 inch lbs if you have a torque wrench. If not make sure the bolts are tight. Double check all the bolts.

Place new thermostat and gasket in housing and reattach housing. Plug electrical connector back in. Place new/old belt on. Reattach the two hoses. Reattach the skid plate. Re-connect the battery. Remove coolant reservoir cap and fill reservoir with coolant in catch pan. After filling the reservoir if there is any coolant left in the pan set it aside for now.

I prefer to let the car sit for 3 or 4 hours to give the gasket sealer some time to set up.

Start the engine and check to make sure the water pump belt is moving and there is no coolant leaking from pump, thermostat housing or hoses. Allow the car to "burp" (get air pockets out of system) by letting the engine run (leave coolant reservoir cap off) until the engine is hot enough to open the new thermostat. You can tell when this happens by watching the temp gauge and you will notice that as the temp gauge rises it will stop rising somewhere near the middle and may even drop back a small bit. If the temperature does not stop rising and goes to the hot level then the new thermostat may not be working and you may have to replace it. When the thermostat does open the coolant level should drop in the reservoir and you can add the left over amount from the catch pan. You should turn the engine off and let it cool then repeat the "burping" process again. After a couple "burps" the coolant should be at the cold line after cooling. If you need more coolant and are not sure what type you have (Ford uses an extended life coolant but many owners have flushed the system and are using the "traditional" green coolant instead) you can purchase a "universal" coolant at the parts store that can be used with all coolants. Put the cap back on the reservoir. You probably spilled some coolant while "burping" the engine and the coolant spilled from the disconnected hoses needs to be rinsed off the engine so grab the hose and rinse lightly.

Put the plastic engine cover back on.

IF YOU SPILLED COOLANT MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN IT UP AND RINSE THE AREA OFF. KEEP THE KIDS AND PETS AWAY FROM IT.

The PATS system is integrated into the PCM and cannot be bypassed.