Ford Escape XLS

The 2001 Ford Escape is 14 ft. 5 in. (173 in.) long.

This job can be very difficult so only attempt if you are very confident in your mechanical abilities. I am writing this as if you have experience(if you don't then don't even try this job!)If this is you then here we go. First of all a Hub Tamer(OTC) or Hub Shark(Ken Tool) will make this job a whole lot easier. So borrow or rent one and watch the videos available on you tube. If you don't have availability to one beware. You will be replacing alot more than just a bearing by the time you are done(especially if you live in the rust zone). To replace the bearing without a hub tool you will have to remove the entire lower control arm! That means taking off the lower shock bolt, the upper and lower ball joints(yes it has ball joints in the rear), the CV shaft, all of the brake components including the backing plate (this is done after you remove the center hub, the coil spring has to come out but after you dissasemble the rest it will come right out(It will NOT be under any pressure-the only nice thing Ford did to make it easier) and finally the control arm bushing. This will be very tricky if it is rusty( i torched it out and replaced it(cost another $60 but trust me its worth it. Make sure you buy the busing and all adjustment pieces). Before you remove all these things be sure to move the wheel speed sensor(where it goes into the wheel well opening remove plastic cap and unplug it there otherwise you might break the sensor by taking it out of the knuckle), the e-brake cable and the brake line or you will break one or all of these). Press in your new bearing. Then reassemble in reverse. The job calls for about 2.5 hours per side. Good luck with that. It took me about 45 minutes to get the bushing out. Like I said before, USE A HUB TAMER, I don't care if you have to beg borrow or steal one. You will save yourself a major headache! Oh yeah, don't be an idiot like me and forget to put the backing plate on before installing the center hub. Good luck and feel free to email me on how it went.

Alternate.

-- Remove the hub with a slide hammer. The bearing will come apart.

-- Remove the brakes.

-- Arc weld or mig-weld the inside of the old bearing, taking care to not throw spatter on the axle stub. One only has to weld on perhaps half of the old bearing. The old bearing will shrink with the weld metal. Carefully work the old bearing race out. Then sand the rust out of the hub.

-- Get some sort of similar sized material for a driver -OR- slice one (Remington blade) hacksaw cut on the old bearing. Perhaps the bearing will have shrunk enough to use without slicing. Tap in the new bearing with the driver.

-- Remember the backing plate. (ouch)

-- Remove old inner race from wheel flange. Tap in flange while tightening axle nut.

It's in the fuse box which is located in the front center of the car and is accessed from the front passenger side.

Either a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder or a 3.0 liter V6

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape

( the spark plug firing order is 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 )

2.2 litres of 75w90 synthetic

For a 2001 V6 (3.0) Escape the freon capacity is approx 32 oz, dont forget that when you add freon that the cans at the auto parts store also have oil in them, so that needs to be subtracted from the 32. Autozone will tell you that your system needs 9 oz of oil in it with the freon, but their system answers are wrong, the system in your car cannot hold this much. A new compressor should have 1.5 or 2 oz in it when you buy it, and then each can of 134a you buy has 1 oz in it, two big cans are about all you need to fill your discharged system. These 4 oz of oil are all you need. Hope this helps.

Hey Tina==If just the left signal is staying on, it isn't the flasher. One of the bulbs, either front or rear, are burned out. Find out which one isn't working and I think you have to take the housing off of the car to change the bulb. GoodluckJoe If the bulb is not burned out, it's most likely the turn signal combination switch. The turn signal portion of it easily breaks off internally, leaving the signal in the last position (left in your case). The combination turn signal and light switch will need to be replaced. On some Montero models that can be be done without removing the steering wheel. Just removed the bottom steering wheel cover, move the steering wheel in the lowest position and remove the top cover. Then remove the two screws that keep the combination switch in place, unplug the wiring plugs (press plug release and pull out). Relative easy procedure. Buying a new switch will be the most painful part, OEM parts are expensive. Maybe you cna find a refurbished combination switch at an acceptable price.

Directly under the throttle body. A few 10 or 12mm bolts. and a plug also i believe. Very easy, just in a bad spot.

Sure as long as you get the right connections - you might have to get a different electrical adapter though

The 2009 Ford Escape is 14 ft. 6.7 in. (174.7 in.) long.

you have to buy the plug-in cord (for the block heater) separately. Block heater is about $34.00 CDN and the cord is about $75.00 CDN. The cord has the regular end to plug into your electrical socket and the other end has a special plug end for the heater.

On a Mercury Sable , V6 engine :

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

Get a Haynes or Subaru Factory Shop Manual for your car, and read up on this procedure. In general, loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn, loosen big axle bolt approx 1/2 turn, raise car, support on jackstands, remove wheel, pound out drift pin using a punch on the transmission end, remove lower ball joint from wheel hub casting, watch brake and ABS wires as you pull the entire wheel hub and strut assembly away from the car, axle shaft comes out of hub, other end of axle shaft comes out of transmission. Big problem area is if axle shaft hangs up on the hub splines-- you may need a puller for this. Be careful if you hammer the axle shaft out of the hub-- not only damaging the axle shaft for a core return, but you also may damage the wheel bearings inside the hub-- I have a 300 dollar receipt as testimony to this. Install is reverse of removal, reassemble with care, remember the roll pin on the inner CV spline, then do a final tighten on the big axle nut once the wheel is on the ground.

There isn't one. Your Suburban only has one washer fluid bottle, but it has two pumps. One for the front windshield and one for the backglass, they are side by side in the reservoir on the driver side inner fender.

The 2010 Ford Escape has a 2.5 L base engine size.

Each tire has two ball joints. If they break you will lose control of the steering and crash.

There may be three possible causes of fuel pump hum on a Ford Escape. These are the exhaust leak, wheel bearing, or a bad tire.

The 2010 Ford Escape is 14 ft. 6.7 in. (174.7 in.) long.

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape

from the top of the rad to the engine from the bottom of the rad to the engine

According to the 2009 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change the 3.0 liter V6 engine takes :

( 6 quarts / 5.7 liters of engine oil )

According to the 2001 Ford Escape Owner Guide ( 5W-20 )

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter four cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )

The 3.0 V6 ( 5.5 quarts )

Change your oil.

The light can be reset with a code reader by any mech & is usually done at time of service. On some cars, disconnecting batt. long enough will reset them, although sometimes come back on.

Just disconnect the positive battery cable for a few minutes then reconnect it. It will reset the computer back to default settings, from that point on it will start to fine tune itself from the various inputs from all the engine sensors.