Ford Escape XLS

ive seen it done

This is very difficult for a beginner to accomplish, however, there are 2 ways to attempt to do it. First, you can remove the bumper, battery, and entire wheel well assembly, or you can attempt to get to it from under the wheel well. The easiest way, that I have found, is to remove the bumper and the wheel well. To do this, there are several screws on the underside of the bumper; they have 10 mm heads, remove them. There are 2 10 mm screws holding the grill and bumper in place, at the top corners of the grill, remove them. there are several screws holding the wheel well to the bumper, along the outer edge of the well, remove them. They are snap in screws, so you may have to pry them out. There is one metal screw holding the wheel well to the body, at the upper, outer edge of the wheel well, remove it. There is also another snap in screw that is hidden under the wheel well. It is in the front of the well, about 14 inches up. There is a 10 mm screw that holds the front of the wheel well to another piece of molding that is attached to the underside of the vehicle. If you are looking at the front of the tire, from the outside of the well, it will be strait ahead, about 6" from the bottom of the well. Once you get this screw off, you must bend the plastic out from under the "skid plate" plastic cover. I chose not to reassemble the wheel well in this manner as it was too much of a pain to get it off. At this point, the front plastic of the wheel well should fold down. Bend it out of the way, but don't break it. Once you remove all of these screws, and move the bumper out of the way, you will be able to see the headlight assembly. There are 2 screws that hold the top of the assembly in place, one screw that holds the bottom front of the assembly in place (blocked by the bumper) and another screw that holds the far right side of the assembly in place (blocked by the bumper, almost at the wheel well) At the top, there are 2 points where the assembly snaps onto the frame, pry them up. There is 1 place, near the wheel well that is also snapped into place. Remove these screws and the headlight assembly will come out. Change the light, the mount twists out of the assembly. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. Make sure everything is snug so the screws don't back out.

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape > driver

if the abs system is working. anti lock breaks. then the fault will be in the electrical system. you can go to the parts store and they will run a obdII testor on the system. usually they don't charge for the test. They want to sell you the parts to fix it. It could be several other things, but to have the test done will be the easiest way to find out what the problem is. The other thing that you can do is buy the tester. Some run as cheap as $30.00. From 96 on the connector was placed in the passenger compartment. usually by the left side kick panel, or somewhere around the steering coloum below the dash board, and instrument panel. Check the owners manual for the location, you can use a haynes manual specific to your vehicle, ask at the dealer. hope it helps. duboff

Incorrect. The scanner that auto part store has will not read abs codes. You must have some1 put a actual reader on it like a snap-on or solus.

I just spent 2 hours trying to figure it out myself! I took apart much more than was required because I was told I had to remove "several" screws. Also that it was a 30 minutes to an hour job to replace the filters.

The reality is that one (1) screw had to be removed and it shouild've taken less than 10 minutes to complete the job.

Here is what you should do:

Open the Glove Box Door.

Remove the screw that is on the right side nearest the hinge. (10mm hex or Phillips head screwdriver)

The door and box come out by moving the unit toward the right.

You can now see the heater core box (black plastic housing) and the inside/outside air door (white plastic housing). If you slide the selector you will see it move.

Immediately to the left of the inside/outside air intake is a one (1") inch wide black strip that is eight or nine inches tall. The retaining tabs wrap over the top and the bottom edges. I pried down on the bottom tab and pulled forward and lifted upward. Then I slide it to the right a bit to access the top filter.

I pulled out the top half of the filter. I then pushed the bottom half of the filter upward to clear the steel framework and slide it out the same way as the top half came out.

Slid in the the bottom filter observing air flow direction (right to left) and slid it to the bottom and then the top filter slides right snug on top.

Snap the 1 inch wide cover back in place.

Slide the door back into place and secure with the one screw and you are done!

could be a few reasons, check out your suspension rods, the tie rod ends, or maybe see if your tires are balanced

The maximum cargo capacity of the 2009 Ford Escape is 66.3 cu.ft..

3. 2 of them are built into the exhaust manifolds. The 3rd is located right before the muffler like every other vehicle.

To remove and replace floating caliper mounting bolts. 3/8" and 8mm hex bits are used for General Motors vehicles. 7mm and 1/4" hex bit are used for Ford. 2003-2006 Ford Expedition use the 7MM hex bit.

7MM hex bit does not work on a 2006 Expedition. Looks like it requires a 9MM, the only one that is not included in my hex set.

On a 2006 Expedition Limited, the front calipers use a 9MM hex bit while the rear calipers use a 7MM hex bit.

You need a new or reman. axle, a new axle nut, the transmission fluid specified for your car, anti-seize compound, and a new boot and cotter pin for the tie rod end. The hard part is getting the axle nut loose. I can't remmeber what size it is, but you'll need a long cheater bar on a breaker bar to get it loose. Or an impact wrench, if you've got one. Once the axle nut is loose, raise the car and remove the tire. You have to unbolt the MacPherson strut where it attaches to the knuckle. You may also have to unbolt the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end with a "pickle fork". You should be able to push the end of the axle out of the hub bearing. If you can't, apply some penetrating oil, put the OLD axle nut on the end (to protect the threads) and beat the tar out of it with a hammer until it pops loose. Make sure the knuckle is supported so that you're not just ramming the axle into the transmission when you hit it. The idea is to persuade the axle out of the bearing. Once the axle is free of the steering knuckle, you will have to pull the other end out of the differential. There is a circlip holding it in the side gear of the diff, so you may need to lever it out with a crowbar or prybar. Be careful of what you use as a fulcrum. It will come out with a slight "POP". WARNING: If you are removing BOTH axles, place a length of broomstick through each axle hole as you remove the axles. Otherwise the side gears will fall out of the differential and you'll have to tow the car to a transmission shop to get them put back in!!! Ensure that the new axle has a circlip on the end. Lubricate the splines with transmission fluid and push it into the hole, making sure that the splines line up before pushing it all the way in. When it goes in, you should hear and/or feel the circlip POP into the side gear in the differential. Coat the outside shaft spines with anti-seize compound and slide into the hub bearing. Fit the knuckle back to the MacPherson strut and tighten the bolts to spec. (Not sure what that is offhand.) Install the tie rod end with new boot, tighten to spec, and use a new cotter pin to secure the castle nut. Put on the new axle nut but do not tighten it yet. Reinstall the tire, lower to the ground, and tigthen wheel lug nuts to spec. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to spec. ...sorry I don't have the torque specs handy. But you should be able to Google those. :) Check your transmission fluid level as some will probably have spilled out the axle hole. This procedure should not require an alignment unless you remove the ball joint, lower control arm, or the entire MacPherson strut assembly.

The whole instrument assembly comes out.

1. Remove two 7mm hex screws on display panel cover (top, underneith)

2. Pull the bottom part of display cover straight toward you. There are 2 clips, one on either side of the steering wheel behind the display gauge cover that holds in the bottom half. These will snap free with a little force. Do one side at a time.

3. Remove and set aside. This reveals the four display unit screws.

4. Remove the four 7mm screws on the actual display panel. (fyi: all screws in this project are the same headsize, threadsize, and length - so don't worry about making note of which ones return where)

4. Tilt top of display panel toward you and remove the three top connectors (they come out easily and are in a cable harness so you can't put them back wrong) You will need to squeeze the middle gently, unlocking connector and pull)

5. Pull out display - which includes "glass" covering - this never gets removed! (adjust steering wheel to lowest position if needed)

6. On the rear of the panel you will see several (little grey) knobs. Find the one right behind the dark device and using a pliers, twist counter clockwise 1/4 turn and remove. The little light bulb pulls out of the little twisty thing with your fingers. Ford had the bulbs - the parts guy gave me one. I have heard people charged up to $8. Don't lose the little twist-in thing, I don't think Ford sells them individually. You will have to call every dealer in town and ask if they have cannibalized one from a returned instrument cluster.

7. Replace bulb assembly by inserting the new bulb and turning the twisty thing clockwise 1/4 turn.

8. Assemble following reverse instruction of above.

* This all sounds a lot more complex than it actually is. These steps each only take a minute or so. The most difficult part for me was pulling out the display assembly cover. Took me a few minutes to figure out where the clips were on either side of the base of the display cover and what pressure was needed to pull them free. It does take a little effort (pulling straight toward you) at the base of the display cover to pull free

All in all this took me about 15 minutes to remove and about 10 minutes to replace, but I had to find socket size, snap locations of cover, etc etc....

Please feel free to cut and paste this article to any other boards with the same question. I hate to see people getting "ripped off" for a simple 4 dollar job anyone can do.

try replacing your spark plug wires, as they get old damp conditions will allow the spark to "ground out" sending your voltage back to ground instead of to your spark plugs where it belongs. good luck

I found this web site to be an excellent reference for your question. I could not have done the work without it! http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/article.php?id=281 Best of luck!

Just had this problem and it was bad coil pack so it was only running on 5 cylinders

5x4.5

5x114.3mm

i'm not sure about the offset, remember that matters too. if you get the wrong one, you might have the right bolt pattern but the wheel won't fit over the hub.

The same question for a 99 Sienna was answered on this site by referencing www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/ The price quoted for the handle way $65.

take out old bulb & install new bulb . if can not do this come to repair shop . i fix that .

I found the block heater cord, second hole on the bottom on the drivers side bumper, tucked in and you can't see it

I've had this problem on my 01 Escape and had to have the front brake hose replaced. According to the mechanic, Ford has had a lot of problems with these hoses. I'm replacing the rear hose tomorrow.

Heat, lack of lubrication, or coolant in the cylinders or oil pan.

You need a press, my advice is to go to NTB or sears and pay the 65 bucks to have this done right and fast takes no longer than an hour

It usually is a carbon build up. take off egr valve, use a scraper or wire wheel to clean it, same with manifold, don't use chemicals on the valve itself, but I guess you could use brake cleaner on the port of the engine if you can't scrape it out. get a dremel tool with the long flex extension, put on a wire wheel and clean it out like that

2.66 lbs R-12