Ford Escort

It is RHT a good way to get it loosened is put a tire tool on the bolt let the tire tool contact the ground and give the starter a bump. Works great if u dont have a impact wrench. I have done it on several engines works great. Make sure you dont have the plug wire's on you don't want it to start!

Unless the cap on the reservoir says use Power Steering Fluid only use Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid.

The temperature sensing unit is located on the water outlet. The water outlet is the housing that contains the thermostat and 2 engine temperature sensors.

The sending unit for the fan is the first sensor closest to the front of the car.

The sensor towards the rear of the housing operates the engine temperature gauge. It has only 1 small connector wheras the sendiing unit for the fan has a larger connector with 2 wires instead of 1.

Some are, some aren't.

i was wondering if you changed you water pump??? i got mine almost out all but 2 bolts...not to bad. you have to take the timing cover and belt off..then your water pump is right there..pass..side..remove right tire...let me know about the bolts...

Contact the dealer.

No they are different.

I use the autozone and advance auto parts websites frequently to find my car parts for the best price.

pay someone to change it its a pig of a job unless you like laying upside down

There is no timing mark for the crank pulley. It has a ring behind it with teeth. One of the teeth are missing. The crankshaft position sender picks up a magnetic electrical pulse that determines when that cylinder is to fire. The timing is controlled by the PCM (Power Control Module). The timing can't be set.

The name of the colour is Venition red in a south african assembled car VERSION OF THE 1600 SPORT (1981), My name is Devan and i can refer you a man who has panited and owned so many colours of this model back in the day, he also has a car collection of all the classics contact "HARRYS MOTORSPORT"

There is no transmission drain plug on this model, just a fill plug, so if you want to drain the old fluid before refilling it, you'll need to use a pump--a good hand-operated fluid pump should do the job. This is done either through the fill plug, or through the hole for the speedometer cable retainer (more about that later). The official fill plug is on the side of the transmission that's closer to the radiator (not the firewall side), lower down, on the "back half" of the transmission, near the transmission mount--you'll have to get under the car to see it and remove it. It's about three-quarters of an inch/18.5mm in diameter. Often they're coated with oil, so it may not be easy to see at first. Before removing it, clean it and the whole area around it using a degreaser so no dirt, etc. falls into the transmission. You remove the plug using the bare, square driver of a 3/8" socket wrench. You can use the plug's hole to both check the fluid level, and to top it off if needed. You can insert a long tube or hose into the hole, snaking the tube in from above, and then push a funnel into the top end of this tube. The fluid needs to be regular Mercon or Mercon V, even though this is a manual transmission. It should be filled until the fluid level reaches the bottom edge of the hole--you'll know you've reached that point when the fluid starts dripping out as you continue to pour it in.

This process is fairly easy, but there's another place to pour in transmission fluid too, though you should still remove the fill plug so you can monitor the proper fill level: if you remove the speedometer cable retainer on the other side of the transmission, into which the speedometer cable goes, you'll open up a hole into which you can pour transmission fluid (again, using a funnel pushed into a long tube or hose, or using a long funnel). You'll see a big nut at the end of the speedometer cable where it enters the transmission, but it's not what holds the cable retainer to the transmission, so don't try to turn it--instead, the cable retainer is held in place by a 7mm hex head retainer bolt (again, yours may be coated with oil, so first thoroughly clean the area with a degreaser and wipe it off, and it will be easier to see how this assembly comes apart and goes together). After you remove the retainer bolt, pull up on the speedometer cable; you may find that rocking it back and forth a little may help (don't rock it too much, or something may break). If the cable retainer doesn't come out of the transmission, pry upward on it with a flatblade screwdriver to loosen it, and then pull upward on the cable again. Once the cable retainer is removed from the transmission, you'll see transmission fluid through the hole--this is where you pour the fluid. However, if you don't remove the "official" fill plug too, to allow you to see when the new fluid begins to drip out of it, you'll only be able to make a rough estimate as to when you've poured the proper amount of fluid into the cable retainer hole, by bringing the level up until the long horizontal gear you'll see inside the retainer hole is half-covered with fluid. But this rough estimate can be too much, since for some reason the gear can remain looking only half-covered, even while you keep pouring in more fluid, until it's too much, as if the fluid level when poured into this hole doesn't rise commensurately with what you put in. By removing the official fill plug too, you can know when to stop pouring, which is when the fluid starts coming out of the fill plug's hole. I usually reinstall the official fill plug at this point, and pour another four ounces into the speedometer cable retainer hole, since my Escort's transmission seems to work better with a little extra fluid, but don't put in more than this or it may cause trouble for the transmission (sorry, I don't know the details as to what kind of trouble--it's just what I've read). If you don't want to put in any extra fluid, it might be simplest to fill the transmission using just the "official" fill plug on the side of the transmission, since this means you just have to remove one part, and it guarantees you won't overfiill, because any excess will just drain back out of the hole.

Usually, to replace any power mirror, you must first remove the inside door panel. From there you should have access to the rear of the mirror. There has to be some screws (usually 3 screws) holding the mirror in place. Also follow the wires from the mirror to where it is connected and disconnect.

Technically it is a person who will keep you company for the evening, at say a dinner or a social engagement. In reality, it is person who will have varying types of sexual intercourse with you for varying amounts of money.

With the exception of Nevada, this is illegal, but tolerated in the main.

Unlock it using the keys, the use your hand to pull the handle that is on the door.

its all in one cigarette lighter, interior lamp, and or hazard is all the same fuse

will saturn rims fit ford escort

I'm not absolutely certain, but I am willing to bet the drums on a '94 are similar to the '01 I have.

If you look at the face of the drum, you should see two threaded holes. I believe but am not sure that the threads are 9mm. I do know they are metric. You will need two 4" bolts. Thread them into the holes and turn them in equally. This will push the drum off the shoes. You may need to rap it occasionally with a shot mallet to free it up.

The VSS vehicle speed sensor on top of the transmission is faulty.

Behind kick pannel alongside gas pedal. Remove push pins by prying up center head of pin and the pin will come out. The back of the pannel has a plastic finger that just seems to sit behind a sheet metal capture point. Dont pry that out or you will break off hte finger. How you get hte cable loose is a mystery to me. All I see so far is pull down on the "tab" and the cable will be released. I see no tabs and cable enters a plastic shroud around damper operator. Let me know if you get it loose please.

HJ = Hand Job - meaning the escort will manually (with her hands) stimulate the male genitalia until climax. There is little risk of STD transfer but typically it is performed with a condom.

Hope this helps

You will need to buy a Window Knob removal tool at any parts store to remove the lever you use to roll up and down your windows. (Granted you have manual windows, and not power) Next, there should be a screw in your door handle assembly, and usually two in the arm rest (handle you use to close your door). After you have removed all 3 screws, start pulling on your door panel. (Bottom left, to bottom right, then make way up, being firm.) You are pulling out the clips that hold it in place. Once you are pretty sure you got them all, lift up on your door panel to get it over the lock knob thingy.. and you should be golden from there.

On a 1993 Ford Escort , 1.9 litre four cylinder engine :

1------2------3-----4 , transaxle ( transmission )

No , if you were to bypass the heater core , you would have no heat