Ford Escort

down by your foot next to the pedals. its even labeled on the plastic.

You are probabily thinking of the starter solinoid..? To change that you got to take off the starter and it'll be a round cylinder about 3 to 4 inches long. If your having transmission problems hit me up

You may need to press the new bearings into the hubs, and the hubs may be damaged when doing this so additional parts may be needed... look at the new part first but READ UP ON IT... a manual will help with diagnosis and repair, and a shop manual should be available at the local library in the reference section for FREE, make copies of the right pages, good luck...:)

Check the Horn wiring and if this is good then replace the horn.

most of the ecm on the 1997-1999 escort is on the floor right in front of the stick there are panels on both sides that come off pretty easy and you will be able to see it right in the middle hope this helps

An Escort water pump is located under the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle, remove the following: RF wheel, front motor mount, serpentine belt, belt tensioner crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and timing belt, to gain access to and replace the water pump. It is recommennded that you install a new timing belt when you replace the water pump.

It is suppose to just pull out. It is like a plug with an O ring about 5 mm below the ridge that sits on top of the engine, and the "plug body" is about an inch deep. I have a manual transmission. I went to a junk yard and took out an intact speedometer. It came out somewhat easily by yanking on it. When I tried it on my speedometer (only one of the tabs broken) I needed to remove the cable, electrical sensor, bolt (of course) and the tab. Then I had to pull like crazy, pry it with a screwdriver (doesn't affect the seal), and wiggle it a lot. I found it went in and out easier after CAREFULLY cleaning around and in the fill hole (btw that is where you fill your transmission fluid in a manual) and I aligned the flat part opposite of the bolt hole. i suspect it doesn't matter what way you align it, but that is what worked for me.

Go to www.zx2racing.com, there will be detailed instructions. On the left hand collum, click Pully Diagram.

Remove the tranny pan

in my 89 escort gt the fuel shut off switch was in the trunk on the left hand side wall. Yes the fuel pump shutoff swith aka enertia switch is located in the left rear of the vehicle to acess it you pull the black plug out of the bottom of the panel, then stick your finger into the opening and push down on the button.

The job is not difficult if you have some mechanical skills and metric tools. 4 or 5 hours of labor.

Remove the wheel.

Remove the brake caliper. This takes a 7mm Allen wrench (2 bolts), each can be found under a small round dust cap.

Remove the caliper mounting bracket - 2 bolts.

Remove the rotor. It should come right off. If not tap it with a hammer to brake it loose from the hub.

Now you have access to the bearing and will need a puller. Advanced auto parts and some other parts stores rent specialty tools.

You can do it.

check to make sure there isn't a lock accessory hidden around the steering wheel. some cars have a button that has to be pressed to be able to set the key to the lock position. sometimes, it is on top, sometimes on the underneath. then, the key should come out.

I would be suspicious of the ignition module.Mine had same problem I replaced the plug wires and now all better. I had #2 cylinder misfire reporting on 1998 Ford Escort ZX2. I noted that I could force SES light to flash at high RPM also. (Flashing light indicates misfire in progress. Serious for engine.) Replacement of plugs and wires resolved the issue. This was well overdue, and plugs showed burn damage to electrodes. It also could be your fuel injectors going out. Id change plugs and wires first, and see if it helps. Does it always come on only when you get to 50? Or does it come on when you accelerate, say, going uphill?

you will see two holes in each side of the radio, insert standard radio pins in here and the radio will pull out

The dash must be completely removed in order to gain access to the heater box. Then the heater hoses are disconnected and the heater box is removed and opened up. That gains access to the heater core for relacement.

Behind engine underneath intake plenum. See other wikianswer on the process of replacing the starter in the 1993 escort (same as 1995).

you have to jack the car up. its on the side of the motor that faces the firewall. looking from under the car it will be on the drivers side of the engine. i believe its held in by 3 bolts.... or 2. be careful to disconnect the battery first or you might get some sparks taking it out.

It would be a good idea to get a Haynes repair manual at your local parts place for $20. It will pay for itself the first time you do anything. There are 27 steps to R and R the timing belt. btw your engine is a non-interference engine which means that when the belt breaks your engine doesn't get any damage. So get a manual and do it yourself.

Your vehicle speed sensor will be on the transaxle somewhere. Go to Auto Zone's web site and use their component locator, that will take all the guess work out of it.

Okay, to change the rear speakers, push those buttons on the top of the seats. They're at either end. Pull the seat forward. Next, there are three retainers holding the cover down. Use either your nails or something thin and pry up the center circle of the retainer. Then grab on to the retainer and pull out. Keep in mind that it will hurt to pull it out but if you use pliers you run the risk of breaking them, so man up. Once all the retainers have been pulled out. Now, pull back the end of the cushions and pop out the cover. After this just unplug, unscrew and change the speakers. Remember that you really should unplug the battery first, just to be safe. Now, the front speakers are a bit trickier. Get a rag or something similar, it must be thin. If you've got manual windows, get the rag and put it in the handle like so. Rag goes --> o====0 <- this end is connected to the door. Push the rag in until you push out a "U" looking pin. Pull out the handle. Pull out all of the retainers, unscrew all of the screws, there's one inside the cup thing, and one on the door handle. Now just pull the trim panel up and towards the back. Change the speaker and bam, you're done. If you've got power windows, I think all you need to do is unscrew the screws and remove the retainers. Please keep in mind that you really should unplug the battery first. I cannot be held responsible if you mess up anything at all.

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the side you want to change.

2. Chock the front wheels.

3. Jack up the car.

4. Take off the wheel.

5. Work the dust cap off with a chisel enough to get a pair of pliers around it.

6. Pull the dust cap off with pliers.

7. Remove the brake drum and shoes.

8. Raise the staked portion of the spindle nut with a punch and hammer.

9. Remove the nut.

10.Remove the backing plate.

11.Unbolt the strut from the spindle.

12.Unbolt the trailing link from the spindle.

13.Unbolt the lateral links from the spindle.

14.Remove the spindle.

hold the button you push to get it to go back down while pulling it out

The 97 Escort should have 5-30 oil.

Antifreeze on the floor, windows fogging inside.

I HOPE TO GOD THAT YOU'VE CHECKED THE FUSE! IF NOT, EITHER THE FAN ITSELF OR THE FAN SPEED CONTROL ON THE DASH. BEST WAY TO TELL IF IT'S THE SWITCH IS WITH A MULTI-METER under the dash on the passenger side there are a couple wires that have to be plugged in or replaced. this is a common problem with escorts I had a similar problem. Check the connections to the blower motor, located under the passenger side dash next to the motor housing. The plugs on my car got corroded from AC condensation and came loose probably by being hit by passengers feet. Try making sure those connections are tight and clean.