Ford Laser

I have changed the rear brake pads on my KJ2 1800 Laser today Jack it up - place supports to make it safe remove the tyres Using a 14mm socket remove the disc pad unit by undoing the two bolts holding it in place. I removed the retaining clip on the brake hose feeding the caliper in order to give a bit more room to handle the caliper On the back of the piston is a 14mm bolt Undo this and with an Allen key screw out the piston. Inside this short 14mm bolt hole is a stud type arangement with splines that fits in to the back of the brake piston. Be careful not to overdo the unscewing as the splines can shear off. This is the parking brake adjuster Once the piston is a far back as it can go unclip the retaining springs that separate the discs at each end- these are a W shape Emove the old pads, make sure the rotor is not scored, if it is it will need to be machined or replaced. Put the anti vibtration shims on the new pads. Put the new pads inside the caliper, replace the w springs that keep them apart. Refit the caliper to the wheel. Be careful not to get any grit inside the parking brake adjuster. Once you have fitted both sets of barkes adjust out the park brake until there is no slack of the pads on the rotor and the handbrake handle is firm. Make sure the wheels will turn. Refit wheels and away you go

The 1983 Ford flasher unit is located beneath the drivers side dashboard. The flasher unit simply plugs in and out.

114.3

You can check the automatic gearbox oil on a 1993 Ford Laser 1.5 using the oil stick.

through the spedo drive hole once the spedo drive removed.

If auto, the oil is added down the dip stick hole. If manual, the speedo drive is used as a measure. Fill 'till the oil covers the drive cog when the drive is used as a dip stick. Chris

to fix your problem, remove the door lock and buy a new car

Chain

1342

The 2 cam cogs have 'I' and 'E' stamped on them. To set the cam timing, the left cog has the 'I' lined up with the pointer on the back plate. The right cog has the 'E' lined up with the pointer on the back plate. The crankshaft cog has a timing mark that lines up with a pointer on the back plate. Make sure when you turn the crankshaft to set it up that it will not hit any valves . (plugs out, GENTLY)

Mark the belt if it is to be re-used to make sure it is in the same rotation when fitted. Don't put any pressure on the tensioner other than the spring tension.

If the belt deflection measured between the two cam cogs is not 8.5 mm to 11.5 mm at about 22lb pressure, then replace the spring.

Rotate the crank through 2 revolutions and check timing.

Brakes are adjusted automatically

Hey can you explain where your up to in the removal process ? You can jack the back of the car up so both wheels are off the ground. Then romve both wheels Then you'll have to back off the rear shoes from the inside of the the hub with a screw driver. Then remove centre bearing nut Remove drum and photo or take off one side and see how it goes back together by looking at the otherside for the right procedure. Re-fit drum and adjust shoes until it is frim to turn under hand and no more. Hope it helps.

You get maximum spark when the engine starts to crank.After that the starter motor sucks the energy away from the plugs.So try one second bursts on the starter without touching the gas pedal.If the engine doesnt try to fire,pump the gas pedal once between starting attempts.You may have to repeat this a few times.The trick is to give the engine just enough gas to start.It may not like too much.

Once the engine starts from cold it should idle a bit fast until it warms up and then automatically slow down.If it doesnt do this then you have to suspect something wrong with the auto choke.

no

brakes adjust themselves automatically

45 l

If it is a B6 motor it will have a plastic cover over the timing belt. E3 or E5 are too easy/simple/straight forward to discuss here. Remove belt,water pump pulley,plastic shroud, bolts on pump, remove pump.

Use a sealant on new pump gasket and refit ,tightening the bolts evenly. Chris

It is electronic ignition so has no points... hence no condensor. They have an ign. module in the dissy which has a small coil connected to it. It is the module that breaks down. Part no. J117. Causes the motor to cut out when warm.

I think it's the Crank Angle Sensor. I thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced it on Thursday and then on the way home today the car just stopped running and wouldn't start and the RAA man said he's pretty sure it's the Crank Angle Sensor. If the car stalls pour cold water over the Crank Angle Sensor and the car should start with no problems. I'm going to go get a scan on my laser tomorrow to confirm the problem and get a price on the sensor.....

You will see a '1' on one of the lead inserts on the cap. That is no. 1 cylinder, and then the other leads go in anticlockwise . Firing order 1342. The dissy can only go in one way, it has a small cut-out on one end of the tang that goes into the camshaft.

yes

The Ford Laser is a badge engineered Mazda 323, and was available in S. America, Asia, Africa, Australia, and New Zealand.

this was not helpful for me

LASER is an acronym. It stands for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation.