Ford Thunderbird

I have a 1998 Ford Thunderbird that is overheating only during intown driving. In testing, I noticed that the fan is not kicking in when the temp is running hot. Where do I find the temp sensor and the fan relay?

The 94 Thunderbird does not have a steering box, it has Rack and Pinion steering and most likely your tie rods are shot. The T-Bird has and extremely sharp turning radius and is known for being hard on steering components .

Inside the gas tank

According to the 2004 Ford Thunderbird owners manual , the 3.9 L - V8 takes : with engine oil filter change : 6.5 quarts / 6.2 liters

E4 means your Ambient air temperature sensor is open/bad. It is located above and to the right of the a/c condensor core behind the front bumper. Other possible causes are shorted wiring to the sensor or a bad ground.

This is a very involved procedure, that is too complex to post here. Go to any auto parts store and purchase a repair manual for you ride. There you will find detailed instructions. Cost around $12

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 unless it is an H.O. which is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Most of the 80's Thunderbirds used carbureted fuel injection (CFI) or electronic fuel injection (EFI). To my knowledge none of the mid to late 1980's Thunderbirds came with straight up good old carburators, if yours does it is an aftermarket mod. The way to tell CFI and EFI appart is that the CFI will have what is called a throttle body, which looks an awful lot like a carburator, but doesn't once you open it up, and a standard looking ring-style air filter, whereas the EFI uses a fuel injection intake (different looking intake manifold all together) and a fan with a square air filter. I have taken them apart and monkeyed with the CFI of a 1987 T-bird quite a lot. CFI means Central Fuel injection. It has an air intake that looks like the air-horn of a carburertor, but it is fuel injected. Unlike the EFI models, the fuel is not injected directly into the cylinders. Instead, at the central point - where the venturi and fuel supply would be on an old fashioned carburetor - there are two jets, under pressure from fuel pump, which spray fuel into the air rushing in thru the air horn. You can see the brown plug with 4 wires in the front of the CFI: these are the wires into the injectors. So, the gas pedal opens the way for more air, the throttle position sensor and other computer controls notice this, they send a more rapid 'pulse' to the injectors and the injectors go pssst psssst pssst pssst faster and faster and the motor gets the fuel and sucks in more air because it is going faster and then the gas pedal is lifted then the pulse to the injectors is slower pssst.........pssst ...........pst and the motor slows down to idle. Computer senses different things using sensors, but, I hope you get the idea. (Canadian models might still have carb this year)

bank 2 is the drivers side of your engine sensor 2 is after the exhaust has passed through the catalytic converter ( downstream )

10-30 is fine. I live in a hot climate so I use 20-50W

U cut both hoses & connect together with a piece of half inch conduit.OR put plugs in each hose & secure with hose clamps-(same as above)--OR get 2 block-off caps & install on the heater hose nipples.

Try a factory shop manual from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM.

Could be the fuel pump, fuel filter, distrbutor rotor, or the coil.

The check engine light can be reset two ways. 1) If the problem resolves itself, the check engine light will reset itself after a certain amount of cold starts of the car on the on board computer system. 2) You need an OBD reader that has the reset check engine light capability.

The best way would be to unsolder the old speakers and resolder the new ones on. The easiest way would be to cut the wires right on the edge of the solder, strip the wires, twist the copper, and loop them through the holes on the new speakers. This isn't the most recommended way to connect speakers because they can come loose over time and you may have fidelity loss. Another way could be solderless connetions, but to do this need the little connectors and crimping pliers to attach them to the wires. Basically you will spend more money with this option than with a new soldering iron and a coil of solder. This option also has the possibility of coming loose over time and minimal fidelity.

You will need a Ford Factory repair manual in order to find the instructions. Replacing a heater core is one of the most difficult, frustrating, and labor intensive repairs you can make. You basically have to remove enough of the dash components to gain access to the core. And then remember where and how everything goes back together. Unless you are very patient, flexible, and skilled with your hands, this is a job for someone who has done it before. I have replaced many heater cores and always dread that repair. I no longer will even attempt this repair.

The red colored Check Gauges indicator light is telling you to aknowledge your Temp, Oil, Battery, and maybe even the Gas gauge. If one of these begins giving you abnormal readings, it will trigger the light to come on for a brief period and then turn off; However, don't ignore it at all. It is RED colored, and It is telling you that your car has a serious problem. More serious than a Check Engine amber colored light. It could mean that your car is low in fluids, and that serious damage to your car's motor and transmission can occur if something isn't done soon. DO NOT assume that the Check Guages light means that your Instrument panel's guages are failing. Begin by checking fluid levels in the Engine, Radiator, and Transmission. Make sure Engine and Transmission have the correct amount of Oil, Make sure your radiator's coolant level is full. As far as the electrical, check that the alternator is charging at the correct voltage.

how to replace thermostat on a 1964 Thunderbird

you have to pull the entire speedometer cluster on the back of it you will see little lights turn them until they come out and replace them with new ones

My wipers would only work on high. we replaced the signal lever which works the wipers too. i did get my mechanic to do it because it was'nt as easy as the parts store said it was. try replaceing the wiper pulse relay board under driver side dashboard

pretty easy, but you'll want to make sure it's charging, and that means also checking the voltage regulator...so.. You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:)

theree is one before the catalyitic converters and 2 after the converters. they kindof look like spark plugs with wires coming out of the top.

yes the engine its self will but it would take allot of work to make it run rite and you would need a new tranny and rear end also all new wiring and computer

I'm not a mechanic / technician but the 2014 Ford Mustang ( Shelby GT500

has a supercharged 5.8 liter Dual Over Head Cam , V8 engine rated at

662 horsepower from the factory using 93 octane unleaded gasoline )

* that's one I know of that can be sold to the general public

First, remove the bulbs. Second, replace the fuse. If the fuse still blows it's a wiring problem. The fuse is doing it's job by not allowing the short to burn up the car.