Ford Trucks and SUVs

The VIN on a '66 F-100 is located on the drivers door. That's where they are on both of mine.

Air up your tires~!

remove the air filter can. back driver side of engine under black plactice cover PUT COVER BACK OVER CONTROLER BECAUSE THE AIR FILTER HOUSING CAN SHORT IT OUT.

i have a 95 dodge ram 360 and i believe that it is vacume advanced for the distributor but then again i changed my spark plugs wires and distributor/cap and my truck started missing...???/ i have a 95 dodge ram and the same thing happened i had to rout the ignition wire over the valve cover

Disc?

Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen 2 caliper mounting bolts Remove 1 caliper mounting bolt completely to allow caliper to swing off rotor Remove outer brake pad Use"C" Clamp and inner pad to retract piston into calioper body Install new pads inner and outer Re-Install caliper to rotor and tighten mounting bolts

PUMP BRAKES TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

Correction: On most Ford F150s of that generation, the front disc brake calipers are held in place with what are called roll pins, not bolts. The procedure is the same, except the part where it mentions the mounting bolts.

Removing these pins is relatively easy. Get yourself a narrow chisel or a wide flat-head screwdriver with a long shaft. It can't have a head wider than 1/4-3/8". Also, get a good hammer. Use the hammer to lightly tap the pin inward until it reaches the caliper body. At this point, switch to your chisel/screwdriver and hammer combo. Make sure you hit on the sides of the pin, not the middle. alternate back and forth on the sides until the pin falls out the other side.

Re-inserting the pin is easier. simply hammer it in. Just don't pass the stops, which appear on either end.

Alternatively, they make a tool called a roll pin punch specifically for removing roll pins. Works in pretty much the same way, except you don't have to alternate from side to side. The punch fits on the pin, and you just hammer straight. Roll pin punches usually come in sets that fit most pins, but can also be found individually for your vehicle.

I don't know who's 1993 Ford F150 has bolts, but I know for a fact mine has pins. I worked on them myself today!

Also, there is no way to not take the caliper off completely. Be careful! The caliper is connected to the system via a hose, and it's a bad day to snap this hose. Hold onto it.

I hope this helps all.

40-50 thousand dollars

There are FOUR screws which secure the rear light assemblies to the body sheet metal. Two are "outside" in the plastic lens, and are located at the top and bottom of the lens forward edge. The other two screws are not accessible when the tailgate is up, so drop the tail gate. There should be 2 black screws at the upper and lower ends of the tail light assembly (hidden when tailgate is up). Remove all fourscrews and the assembly should pull out allowing you access to two bulb sockets. The top socket is for the combination tail light, brake light, and turn signal bulb. The lower socket is for the backup light. These bulb sockets are of the bayonet type which means that they are removed with only one quarter of a turn counterclockwise, or to reinstall, one quarter turn clockwise. To access the bulb(s), twist [1/4 turn counterclockwise] the bulb socket to remove from the assembly. After the bulb socket is out of the assembly, the bulbs are removed from the socket by rocking and pulling. Do not twist the bulbs as there are no bayonet pins on the bulb base, which would require twisting. Replace the light assembly into the body opening and reinstall the four screws until they "bottom out," plus only about 1/8th of a turn, being careful not to overtighten as the metal screws go into the plastic light assembly, and it is very easy to "strip out" the plastic threads if you apply too much muscle on tightening.

top radiator housing

The 2012 Ford Explorer is 16 ft. 5.1 in. (197.1 in.) long.

Mounted to the passenger side frt valve cover

Doesn't have a cooling system bleeder valve.

my husband has a 1998 dodge truck and he uses GM Dexron-III/Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid. You can buy at any automotive store. Dodge,Chrysler and Jeep products require ATF + 4 made by Chrysler. While it is okay in a pinch to top off with GM Dexron-III/Mercon, replacing it with that will cause you problems. They are different.

Do yourself a favor. If you are planning to install an aftermarket radio, buy yourself a radio wiring hardness that will fit into the factory wiring hardness. It will cost under $20.00. And it will save you lost of headaches in the future. No short, or problems... Remove Stock Ford Radio To remove the radio you will need a "Radio Removal Tool". This is a "U" shaped pin with a dent at the end. This can be commonly found at auto parts stores or, WalMart, etc (widely available for $3-$4). The radio has two holes in each end (four holes total) · Insert the removal tool into the holes on each side (This will release the catches holding the radio into the dash) · Slide the radio toward you The link below gives instructions for radio removal and includes photos http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/FLM/PDF/356007.pdf You can also make your own removing tool from a wire coat hanger: cut 2 U-shaped pieces (about 8" each) and insert them into the 2 holes in the front of your head unit; using a sideways motion and pulling towards you will do the trick, just be carefull when inserting the tool to not scratch the finish on the unit. I tried the wire hangar solution but went and bought the tool anyway. Either would probably work, but the tool is a bit more sturdy / stiff. Here are the instructions that come with the tool: * Disconnect negative battery wire * Insert the removal tool into the holes on either side of the faceplate * Push the tools forward about 1 inch until the retaining clips are released * Grasp the tools tightly and pull apart slightly as you pull the unit from the dash

Our 1977 F-100 takes a 56" drive-shaft U-joint to U-joint

block heaters are not standard on f150's. Thus if it was ordered with the option, dealer added or aftermarket installed it may have a block heater. Best way to find out if there is a block heater is to look very closely behind the grill and look for a plug that looks like a male end of an extension cord.

Most likely a blend door issue. Check heatertreater.net for pictures and diagnostic information.

will work good 2004 or 2006 crown vic in 1953 ford truck same size frame will work good just add thing will be fine qqqq

.017" to .019"

The Flasher is located to the left under the dash of the steering wheel. More then likely if you look to the left of the underside of the dash you will see a fuse panel pull switch. Pull it and the fuse panel will drop down. The Round circular looking thing is the fuse. Yard that out and install a new one and you will be good to go.

On a Ford 4.6 liter V8 engine :( rear wheel drive and 4X4 )

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

They are the 5x7 class if you aren't talking about a sub. You can go to crutchfields.com and use their application finder to see what fits your vehicle.

the difference between the two is the interior and exterior accesories, the xlt has an upgraded interior and may have exterior items that are only available on the xlt and not on the xls

go to http://www.ford.com/owner-services/maintenance-service/recall-information

You could have a 4. 2 liter V6 , or a 4.6 liter or 5.4 liter V8 engine