That is normal as there is a parking "gear" and that has to hold the vehicle in place when on a hill. There is a lot of pressure on that gear - you are releasing the pressure therefore the large "cluck" when on a hill. Best way to not cause this is put the emergency brake on when parking - release the brake to set the e-brake and then place the van in park to not put the pressure on the transmission.

First U have 2 make sure U have Vaccume @ the belt driven Vac.Pump,then U have 2 repair the Vac.Leak. Some Dodge truck have Vac.lines near the battery & Bat.Acid will make the Vac. line Brake.Some of the Vac.Hoses are in a plastic loom that keeps the hoses & wires 2gether.Loss Of Vac.2 the control is the problem.

I have a 2001 - my problem solution was the vacuum hose that is located right under the weatherstriping for the hood. Just about the center of the block, there is a rubber elbow that faces down and bends to the rear of the truck. The is a small vacuum line that is in a plastic wire loom that should be connected to this elbow. My hose fell out of the elbow and was against the firewall. I re-connected this hose and put a small zip-tie on it(to avoid the problem in the furture) and it now works perfectly! P.S. The 4 wheel drive will not engage the front tires with this hose off either. I found this out the hard way as I got my truck stuck on a slimmy boat ramp trying to pull out my boat!

1) Mark the timing mark on the harmonic balancer white paint marker works best (should be 10 degrees BTDC). 2) Get the engine to normal operating temperature then turn the car off. 3) Pull the PIP (profile ignition pick up) this is the little end cap looking plug that is on the wiring harness next to the plug on your distributor, without pulling this before setting the timing you will be doing more bad than good. 4) Once the PIP is pulled hook up you timing light (probe on cylinder #1 spark plug wire) then restart the car. 5) Crack the hold down bolt for the distributor slightly (should be a 13mm) just enough to spin the distributor and cap assembly clockwise or counter clockwise as needed (caution: if your wires or distributor cap are old beware, you could be in for a real shock literally)point the timing light at the timing marks and pointer (the lower left of the water pump- looks like a little arrow-)monitor the existing timing and set as needed. 6) Turn the car off reinstall the PIP, you are done. For more power set the timing to 12 - 13 degrees instead of 10 but you will need to run high test gas.(But it's worth it) Hopefully this information helps, enjoy your 5.0.

Just to add a little more info, the PIP on a 95 MustangGT is located on the passenger fender well just behind the Mass air box. It is a black plug in with a little grey square peice on the end about 1/2" wide. When you pull it out, put t in your pocket cause you don't want to loose it since you have to reinstall it after you set your base timing.

theres 2 vacuum pipes that run to the pcv valve, one at the side of the top of the manifold and one from the very back of the manifold. once you've traced the pcv valve it simply pops straight out. good luck

where is it best acessed from the driver side or pass side?

a silly character Adam made up

Since you didn't state the year I am going to guess that it is between the 1986-1995 range. The DRL module is on the left side of the car behind the headlights and can accessed from underneath. It is a black aluminum box about 1-1/4" tall and 3" X 3" in size with cooling fines on top of it. there is one single connector that goes to it.

You should note that if you are in Canada, the Daytime Running Lights are MANDATORY on all vehicles sold in Canada since 1990, and disabling them may cost you a LOT of money in fines, as disabling them is against Federal law and the Highway Traffic Acts of most Provinces.

Could be the master cylinder, booster, or the brake cylinders. If the pistons in the wheel cylinders are jammed up, you don't have any braking on that wheel at all. Does the pedal stay steady when you hold the brake down? If not, it could be a leaking master cylinder. With power brakes, if the booster isn't working it takes a lot more pedal force to apply brakes than you expect, which would also lead to long braking distances. Another thing to look for is the brake pads/shoes or rotors/drums have not glazed over. The effectiveness of the braking action will be greatly diminished with either surface being glazed - rough up the pad surface, or have the rotors lightly turned. On a similar thought, if the pads / shoes have become contaminated with grease, oils or similar, they'll need to be replaced.

You do not have to remove the hub in order to replace the disc brake pads or the rotor.

The job is a difficult one without a press, probably best to take it to a garage, I work in one and wouldn't attempt this job at home!

Possible spark plug or cables or coils need to be change. sounds like miss firing. Take to auto zone or advanced auto store to get checked for free.

In a radiator, the fluids get really hot, when things get hot they expand and then they have to go somewhere, the fluid goes into an overflow.

you will smell rotten eggs all the time when u r driving around

You will get a "check engine" light. On 1996 and newer cars there is a plug near the drivers seat you can plug a cheap device into and it will tell you what "codes" the computer is giving. Google "car chip" Very interesting gizmo

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If the cat is way far gone the engine will run poorly. Stalling, sputtering, hard starts, not start at all, backfire. You may actually not even get a code other than misfire or knock sensor which are symptomatic not fundamental to the problem.

If a cat has failed it needs replaced. There is no repairing a cat.

if they are on the trunk lid, there should be carpeted panels on lid that can be removed and that will expose the wiring and light socket for your licence, to remove the socket you will need to turn it a 1/4 turn left or right and it should pop right out.

There is no actual "chime" for the backup warning. The chime is generated by the radio just like the "KEY IN IGNITION" or the "HEADLAMPS ON" chime. The Rear Parking Assist Moudle sends a signal to the BCM which requests the proper chime for the Radio to produce in the speaker(s).

There can be 1 or 2 depending on vehicle. It is for the temperature gauge and to turn on the cooling fan.

5W-30 , according to the Owner Guide

The timing is set by the computer. It calculates the advance based on the Crank Position Sensor. There is a TDC indicator. Some are on the flywheel and others on the front crank dampner. The ones on the flywheel usually have the CP Sensor on the top of the bellhousing.