GMC Jimmy

front or rear turn signals

Get an axe....chop off anytihng u can...call the junkyard...go buy a ford. I've been a chevy man all my life..i'm over it.

the fuel pump relay is usually located under the hood in a plastic fuse center. the relay will be labled.

1994 Blazer / Jimmy heater core replacement, mine had A/C First off this is not rocket science I just did mine today ( Nov 10th 2007 ) it took me three hours, the hard part is getting over the fear of the unknown, this is all I could find before I started mine The instrument panel carrier is designed not only to provide access to parts through removal of the carrier components, but the carrier will also tilt downward as a complete assembly to allow access from the top. If this is desired, remove the retainer screws along the top and bottom of the carrier assembly (refer to the figure). The instrument panel will then tilt as an assembly into the cab. It is necessary to unbolt and lower the steering column from the carrier to allow for maximum movement of the instrument panel. OK you'll find and remove two screws in each of the defrost vents, that done now start on the passenger side by removing the side kick pad, 4 screws, now remove all the screws along the bottom of the dash, there should be 8- 1/4 head screws and three black plastic peaces will come out once you've got them all out, a long one on the passenger side, one under the steering wheel, and one small one by the fuse box, now there is one more panel to take off right under the calum you need to do this to get to your calum nuts, Oh the park brake cable needs to come off there's spring on the cable by the little lead ball on the end you need to compress it to get it over the fork in there, you'll see. OK now you have to locate four 3/8 head screws along the bottom one in each corner of the dash, one in the middle, and fourth one is up by the sheering calum nuts the nut close to the passenger side, now if yours has a tray in front of the center Counsel it is a good time to remove it three Philips screws and unplug the wires, I took this out because I need to wash all the anti freeze out of small duct pieces and the foam inside OK now turn the key on and shift the shifter to low to get the handle out of your way for later, ( UPDATE remove the plastic shifter indicator cable, you'll find it clipped on the part of the calum that moves as you shift, it will just push off, it should be on the right side under the calum nut if you don't the indicator won't work right ) remove the two steering calum nuts and pull the the calum down, time to move to the passenger side again, I did take the radio out but I found I didn't need to it will cut down on the weight though. OK now start to lift and pull and just keep working it out If you need a picture of where the heater core is and what it looks like send me a e mail at windwalker.xc@gmail.comand I'll send you a picture I took of mine, anyways keep working it out till it's about a foot and a half out, now if it's not coming out check to see if a wire is holding you back I had a white one from the firewall and the wires for the computer needed to be worked and loosened a bit. OK now it's time to go after the heater core, the heater core cover has six screws holding it on, three up top and three on the bottom none are hid like some say in the forums, now move that cover to your right to brake it free, the foam on the left side is what is holding you back just rip it on the top and bottom fix it later, with that cover out of the way you should see the core now, on the sides you'll see a steel strap each strap has two screws holding it in place, remove them. OK now go out and under the hood, I found just cutting the hoses off at the core pipes worked for me if yours come off easy do that mine were not coming off, you will see a bracket in between the to pipes it is held there with a small screw, remove this screw then the bracket, because it won't pull through the fire wall, trust me, jam some rags in the heater core tubes so anti freeze doesn't spill out as you pull it through the fire wall, time to go back into the cab now. OK now just remove the old core and put the new one in, go out under the hood put your bracket back on, put in the screw then the hoses, go back to the cab and replace the heater core cover, put in your six screws, Now with the cover back start working the dash back into place, remember any wires you unplugged need to be replugged Eh. once the dash is in place I put the top screws in first, the ones up top at the defrost ducts, not all the way in mind you, because you'll need to move your dash around a bit to make sure all the screws on the the bottom line first. Well at this point you should be able to get the rest done on your own, just do things in reverse and you should make out OK. Jack

I have a 2004 Ford Explorer XLs and I just found my security code. The Bosch computer module was behind the lower plastic panel on the passenger side rear panel right below the seat belt height adjuster. Not the panel with the seatbelt adjuster but the one below it. No tools were needed and it took me all of 5 minutes. Just pop off the front of the panel closest to the door and pull it back. Use a light and you can see the large 5 digit code on top of the module. Thanks very much to the people that contribute to this forum....Cheers

This is really where it is!

I've gotten estimates ranging from $450 to $850... its a big job.... shop around

There isn't a fuel shutoff valve.

19 gallons, or 72 Liters whichever measurement you go by. Dims are 33X22X10 1/2. You can buy it brand new at most places for $90-$140, plastic is the more expensive option ofcourse. Hope that helps

You have a faulty ground to one of the tail light bulbs and there is a reverse current flow back through the brake light circuit. It could be either front or rear turn signal light.

Piece of cake. Pop out little rubber plug where arm meets tailgate and unscrew the nut, pull off inside panel on tailgate, remove a few 10-13mm bolts around wiper motor, remove retaining clip, unscrew plastic retaining nut on outside, and swap out with new one. Best bet is to go to a junkyard - $40-$50 or $90-$150 brand new!!!

Look on the right (passenger) side of the engine, above the valve cover. You will see two objects with vacumn hoses & an electrical plugin on each. The outside one has a round thingy on top with a tiny filter in it. The inside one has a flat top on it, & no filter. This is the one you want to change! Just unplug the electric connector, & the vacumn hose, the R&R the unit. My practise has always been to change the MAP SENSOR & OXYGEN SENSOR both at the same time, since the failure of one can usually corrupt the other one! If one is not working properly, the other one can't work properly either, & the catalytic converter will end up plugged! Good luck.

lots of times the go several years using the same parts, as long is not the year where they decided to change models from one year to the other, Chevrolet and gmc are the same just different name is their both made by gm. Check the hose connections and the oil line connections, take pictures with your cell phone and compare, I have an 1986 Chevy k5 and I have used parts from a Jimmy on several occasions and had no problem, their the same, or call an auto parts store for pricing and ask for the part number and usually their the same..

1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.

Inside the oil pan!!!! It is part of the oil pump.

i have a 1990 jimmy and it should b the same but follow the fuel tube along the undercarage and u should come to the filter and then all u do is unbolt the clamp and unbolt the filter and in goes the new one..

i have a 1986 S-15 JIMMY and found the fuel filter on the engine block. Located below the power steering pump, on drivers side.

I was not able to eliminate it all together, but clean the EGR sensor below the air intake. If you needed to replace the injection system the chances that you have a carbonated sensors is likely. Clean the sensors, including the oxygen sensor on the exhaust and check that. There is always the fuel filter and what not... make sure that the spark plugs are firing in the proper order. had this happen to me in my camaro and tried a bunch of other stuff first. KISS - keep it simple stupid Changing the transmission fluid and filter really helped with my 95 idling rough...

on the fire wall under relay center this is the fuel pump fuse injector fuse is in the fuse block injector a if any at all what is the problem any whay.

blower motor for 1998 gmc sierra 4x4 is located on the passsenger side,under the dash, you will need to remove the glove compartment door for easier accessand to remove blower motor cover.

Does it turn over? yes

Does it have spark? yes

Does it have fuel?yes

A distributor cap on a vehicle might be bad if the car is shaking more than normal. Other signs include stalling after the car has been running, squealing and rpm's running high.

You have spent lots of money and still have the problem. I think it is time you let a professional take a look at this. You have done all I would suggest.

Take a look at this link: http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1026&location_id=540

Try unhooking the wires to the switches on your doors that activate your [ctsy fuse] which means DOME LIGHTS !!!!! Replace the fuse if good, hook each door up one at a time. The one that blows the fuse is the bad one !!!!!!!!!

Answer ~Bad but not too complicated.There are a row of Allen head and 9/16 nut screws on the bottom panel below the steering wheel and middle panel, remove those.Gently pull down lower panel, upper panel will pull out as well slightly. The hazard flasher (left) and turn signal (right) are just to the left of the lighter assembly. (Silver)Relays are difficult to pull out, if you gently use wide mouth pliers , rock them out. Replace and test, before reinstalling panel.

4.3 v6 engine--- 1 6 5 4 3 2

1. buy steering wheel removing tool

2. remove horn cap (depending on year, don't lose the horn wire)

3. loosen the main bolt holding the wheel to the column

4. screw the tool on

5. slowly ratchet the tool down to get the wheel off