HDTV

you cant tell from that information but they are usually about 25 to 30 fps you cant tell from that information but they are usually about 25 to 30 fps

Yes but it wont be in hd

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Most people would agree that poor quality cable can adversely affect the quality of both sound and vision. However, with digital signals, one cable will perform in much the same way as another. Signal clocks within most equipment will correct such issues as signal attenuation and jitter. Better quality cables are likely to be of benefit on long cable runs because they tend to attenuate the signal less than cheaper and thinner cables. Cables seem to generate a lot of very fixed opinions from the "cable doesn't matter" camp to the "spend hundreds on every cable" believers. The most effective cable probably lies in the middle of those extremes. It might be worth noting that Monster and other branded cables are almost never seen in broadcast production studios. System integrators will rarely specify them, so almost everything that is seen on a domestic television has been through a signal chain that has used cable other than Monster.

4 feet off the ground

Or at least above your toes.

It's not as simple as making a cable that fits. Digital audio cables and digital signals, both coaxial and optical, require a digital input. You need to convert the digital signal to analog to work with older receivers. These are available (Google Digital to Analog Converter or DA Converter). Just about every device that has a digital output will also have an analog stereo output, which will work with your old gear.

== == Hi,

That's relatively easy to answer. It's LCD. Since I worked on them for the last couple of years, I've personally decided that Plasma sets tend to break down much faster than LCD sets.

Even LCD sets don't last as long as a CRT TV without developing problams of one type or another.

Here's the problem as I see it: Planned obsolescence. I personally believe that manufacturers are going for a four to six year designed lifespan of a TV set, but they can't seem to get there, yet. Because it's a new technology, many of the problems will always show up the first few model years, and unfortunately, it's an expensive purchase for something in my opinion isn't dependable.

If you do decide to buy a high tech TV, buy the extended warranty with it. It's your only protection against some very expensive repairs if you have to shell it out of your pocket.

I've got a 27" Hitachi set that's 12 years old and it's still running strong. What I don't know, is what I'd buy once it goes out. There's nothing on the market today that I'm even remotely interested in purchasing simply because of dependability issues.

Hope this helps,

Cubby

Another View I work at a consumer electronics store which has it's on service department. The true answer depends on the manufacturer. As rated by consumer reports flat panel failure rates are equal no matter which technology. Tube televisions have twice the failure rate. If you go by manufacture ratings you will see that the Panasonic plasma has the longest lifespan. It is rated at 100,000 hours. 40,000 more then the nearest rated LCD. However if you break it down by repairs vs sales Panasonic plasma's tie with Samsung and Sony LCD's as equally reliable. Even though Sony is not in the plasma business anymore I own a five year old plasma that is as beautiful as the day I purchased it and it did not suffer from the same first year drop off in color and brightness as my Sony LCD and Sony projection. Plasma's tend to wear even like a CRT.

For my money and seeing that the trends lean towards even reliability, I would go with a Plasma rated at 100,000 hours over an LCD.

Auvio Electronics is out of Shanghai, China.

DLP (Digital Light Processing) is a technology widely used for projecting images from a monitor onto a large screen for presentation purposes.

No.

I don't know but I do know that the program codes for a lg works to program a dish remote to control a seiki tv.

dWhen you draw back the bolt and push forward on the lever, it holds the bolt open.

Jacky's has 10 outlets across the UAE.

The question probably refers to a 3.5mm jack rather than a 3.2mm jack.

A 3.5mm jack or 1/8 inch jack is the small headphone connector used in Ipods, MP3 players, laptops and other domestic audio equipment.

The mathematically minded or just plain nerdy among us will notice that 3.5mm is larger than 1/8th inch. Despite this, they are the same connector. The accurate diameter is 3.5mm but the US designation of 1/8" is far easier to remember than a 9/64" connector or a 0.1378" connector.

The European size is due to the fact that Europe is wholly operating with metric measurements. Having said that, the 3.5mm jack's big brother is known throughout Europe as a 1/4" jack rather than a 6.35mm jack so maybe Europe isn't quite as metric as we think.

A converter is a device that collects all the available channels from the cable company and puts it into an RF signal on a particular channel. Some converters can even change the signal to a "Video" format which can then be attached to a VCR for superior picture. A converter cannot be used to receive premium channels which are scrambled as by itself it is just a channel changer and not a descrambler. You can get all the basic channels with a converter if your TV is not the cable ready type. But if you add a descrambler to your converter, you can then access all the scrambled channels. You can get a converter from your cable company and attach a descrambler to it or you can purchase both the devices on your own and use them to access channels. However, it is illegal to not inform the cable company that you are receiving their signals.

Yes, but only if your Blu-Ray player has a USB port. If not, then no.

You need to buy a "Digital to Analog audio converter" (around $70 with Gefen brand). It will convert the Digital output (Optical) into a analog signal for your speakers.

These converters rarely provide RCA cables(male/male) and Optical Cable(male/male). So you will have to buy them too.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=5279

There has been a wide debate about whether or not "discount" cables are the same as "expensive", or if there is notable difference in quality.

There is one noticeable difference, and that is price. While premium cables can cost upwards of $100, you can get the same length generic cable for around $13.

But what about quality? I think to understand, it helps to know what HDMI cables are.

HDMI cables transmit a digital signal (both audio and video) between a HD source such as a cable box and your TV. Digital signals transmit to TV's using a simple code of 1's and 0's, the TV then determines the 1 or 0 and broadcasts the signal.

There really is no gray area, they either transmit the signal or they do not, and honestly speaking, your $13 cable will carry that signal just as effective as your $100.

All HDMI cables are certified by the same standard testing at the HDMI Authorized Testing Center. That means that the generic cables receive the same HDMI certification from the same testing as the premium cables.

The reality is there is absolutely no difference in quality. I have seen both side by side, and have not been able to tell any difference. I recommend as well doing some research of the specs, you will see that most discount cables have the same specs as the expensive HDMI cables.

It is just like buying a generic brand of cereal, same ingredients, different packaging, and a lot cheaper price.

Buying a discount cable may leave you without bragging rights, but it will also leave you with a lot of extra cash in your pocket and a clear signal to your HDTV.

First, you should know that the television picture is AM or amplitude modulated, meaning that the picture is subject to "static" noise from lightning and other sources of external electrical noise. However, the television sound is FM or frequency modulated and is mostly immune to static or noise from OUTSIDE sources such as motor switching or fluorescent lights and lightning. So if you are experiencing "static" on your television sound it is probably from an internal condition, inside the television itself. Depending on the type of "static", the cause could be the audio amplifier inside the television malfunctioning or even breaking down. A qualified repair person could fix this, although it may cost more than the television is worth. Also, the slide-on wires to the speaker terminals could be dirty. These can be cleaned by an abrasive like scotch brite. Check all speaker connections if you can safely reach them with the television unplugged from power.

Most upper model TVs, including the ones that are 3D compatible, have some degree of Internet connectivity, including Netflix and YouTube. Some have apps fixed in firmware, some you download the apps from the net which you want, and some come preloaded with bunches of stuff, plus the ability to add premium content. Look for wireless Internet capability bult in if you don't have a network cable close by. The "wireless-ready" sets can cost over $100 more to make wireless.

well the forst thing I would do is NOT even attempt this. your non digital setup is not wired at all for this so EVERYTHING in the system would need to be changed because the digital uses a logic board and the other does not. unless your a very good engineer or plan to redo all the wiring to make it acceptible for computer components i would say just leave well enough alone. many streetrodders use modern digital in the rods but its real difficult unless you have an new harness or alot of friends with patience. if you insist on this project maybe try to find another truck that was totalled and maybe you can get the harness. good luck.

Dealer, possibly salvage yard, Ebay, and many on-line sites. Search Google with the term, "Automobile Owners Manual".

Use a hinged half "A" frame on the back that can be attached with a couple of hinges. (not like an artist easel; rather the spine of the frame needs to sit right against the back middle of the flat so that it stands up straight). This type of frame can either be folded in or taken off for storage (depends on whether or not you are using canvas for the face of the flat). Also, make sure to use a 2 by 2 or 2 by 4 for the base so that a sandbag can be draped over it to keep it in place.