Honda CR-V

The 2006 Honda CRV wiper blade sizes are 21" drivers side, 20" passenger side and a special 10" rear wiper that is difficult to find in the stores. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are currently over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

Without knowing what nation or state you are asking about it is impossible to estimate. Labor charges vary according to location.

Best bet: call your local Honda dealer or reputable repair shop and ask. They should be able to tell you with no difficulty what it would cost you in your area.

Try http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto for free downloads of Honda Service Manuals and Diagrams.

On the 1997 model (I think it is the same model) it is stuck on the rear of the coin holder, under the steering wheel. When the coin box is unclipped, the fuses are also revealed.

ask your service station to do a compression test. I had the same problem and replaced all sensors and thermostat but after the test it was found out that there was a crack in the housing holding the thermostat

The fuel filter AND the fuel pump are located inside the fuel tank. It requires the fuel tank to be dropped and removed to service these items.

The clock light is an integral part of the clock and is not replacable by itself

Very helpful site. It will tell you exactly how to reset the SRS light. http://www.geocities.com/myintegra96/srs.html

15.4 gallons or 12.8 litres.

Make sure the fuse that controls that circuit hasn't blown out. If not, it's possilbe that the dimmer switch may have become faulty or the wires leading to or from it may have become loose or unplugged. The other possibility is, given the age of the vehicle, the bulbs may simply have all burnt out.

Remove the four nuts on top of the plastic cover, covering the spark plug coils. Two of them are actually bolts that secure two of the coils. Remove the other two bolts on the other two coils. Unplug the four coils and remove them. Unscrew each plug and remove. This can be tricky because they are very deep in there. You can use a spark plug socket that grips the plug for removal or you can use a properly fitting rubber tube to grip the plug.

I recommend using OEM plugs, which are NGK IZFR6K11. They are more expensive, will will perform better.

A lot of people will say that they are "pre-gapped" and you cannot adjust Iridium plugs. Not true! you can adjust the gap by using the proper tool. NGK even has a video showing you how to do this on youtube. Check the gap on them. The Helms manual says the gap should be .039 - .043

Quote from the Autozone website... When the engine is under a heavy load, the air conditioning compressor is shut off by the computer. A bad TPS can shut off an air conditioning compressor. Also, on computer controlled cars, the key should be turned on before depressing the throttle or the computer can receive a faulty TPS reading and the car might not start.

The cooling system thermostat can be located by looking down at the thick fat hose that comes out of the top of radiator. Visually follow this hose down to where it attaches by a clamp to a metal housing on the engine block. The cooling system thermostat is located within that housing.

When it doesn't function properly

Doesn't open - vehicle will overheat with no cabin heat in a very short run time

Doesn't close - vehicle will not attain normal operating temperature - no cabin heat

I replaced the passenger-sde bulb on a 2004 CRV 5 mins ago, following the instructions from some other link on the Internet. (I don't know where I ended up, link after link after link.) So, standing in front of the car, passenger-side, you will see at the top of the headlamp (the big glass part that includes the headlight bulb and the turn indicator bulb) the wires that connect to the turn indicator bulb. Look to your right about 3 inches and down about 5 inches and you will see another set of wires and a plug going into the back of the headlamp, through this tough, black rubber seal or "cap". You can unplug this by just pulling it straight back out (parallel to the ground). It is a 3-prong plug, like a small 220-volt plug. Next, you remove this black rubber cap (that prevents water and exhaust, etc. from leaking into the headlamp). You kinda have to peel it off. There are not snaps or hooks or anything. It is snug because it is rubber and slightly smaller than the "lip" it covers. When you remove this rubber cap, the bulb is sitting right there. There is a silver clip, about the thickness of a paperclip, holding it in place. Look to the left side of the bulb and clip and you will see it is curved. Push down on the this curved part and the clip "unclips" and swings to your right (towards the middle of the car) away from the bulb. The bulb is now sitting there for you to remove it. Pull it straight out (parallel to the ground again). Replace it with the new bulb - and, for the 10,000th time you've probably read this already, DON'T touch the bulb with your hands or skin. The oil will reduce the lifespan of the bulb considerably. (You'd think we were all Aliens from space, dripping sulfuric acid or something.) As you push the bulb into the space, you can see it from the front of the car. The prongs fit directly into slots, no twisting or turning to lock them in, and you can see how you are lining up with them by looking through the headlamp. You then re-snap the little silver paper-clip like wire back in place by pushing it back. (It should 'click' back in place.) DON'T re-connect the wires yet. First replace the rubber cap. (It has "TOP" printed on it for guidance.) Now re-connect the 220 Volt-like 3-prong plug - and you are done. Halleluah!

There is no normal correlation between replacing the battery and the failure of a power window. It may be a bad switch that just coincidentally happened to fail at about the same time as the battery replacement.

The year and/or accumulated mileage of the CR-V is not given in the question - SO - Possibilities are: spark plugs need changing - distributor needs work - fuel filter is clogged - fuel pump needs replacing. These are all pretty basic if one or more of these in combination is not the problem you will need to have it put on a computer diagnosis readout to see what kind of OBD codes show up.

The maximum cargo capacity of the 2008 Honda CR-V is 72.9 cu.ft..

The 2009 Honda CRV rear wiper blade size is a special 14" rear wiper blade that is very simple to replace once you find a replacement. Unfortunately, most stores do not stock this special rear wiper blade so please see sources and related links below for more information and installation videos. Once you get the wiper blade, there will also be step-by-step instructions on the packaging.

10W-30 is recommended.

From the information given, it is impossible to make a guess. Is it an 'electrical' click or a 'mechanical' click? Where is the "click"noise coming from? The engine compartment? the dashboard area? The ignition switch? the tapep player/radio? More info is needed.

Unknown if you are referring to the keychain 'remote' or the vehicle switch.

If the remote: Check the battery in the remote for need of replacement, if it still doesn't work, check the fuse for the auto locks in the vehicle fuse box.

If the vehicle switch: check the auto lock fuse in the fuse box, if good then the switch itself is bad.