Hyundai Elantra

21mm

43 gallons.

The 2007 Hyundai Elantra runs on regular unleaded.

The 2011 Hyundai Elantra has a 6-speed manual.

The EPA mileage estimate for the 2004 Hyundai Elantra is 23 mpg in the city, 31 mpg on the highway.

Sit in the driver's seat as if you were driving. Tilt your left foot 45º toward the driver's door, with the heel still touching the floor. Lift your left foot until it hits something. You have kicked the engine management computer. Directly to the right of it, if the car has an automatic transmission, you will find the transmission computer.

In this picture, the bundle of colored wires on the left is the ECM harness.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q377/StockersPics/clutchbrakepedalinterferenc.jpg

Actually, yes it is. Wether you replace all three parts or just the rotor backing plates, you still need to dissasemble and re-assemble all of the same parts. Basicly it's just a difference of putting back the used parts or installing the new ones. either way, same amount of work. Hope this helps.

Disconnect battery (plus) for 5 minutes.

I own one and based on my calculations it ranges from 7.8 to 8.4 L / 100 km. All depending on what you're carrying inside, tire pressure, etc..

If you are not comfortable or knowledgeable with the electrical system of a car, have it checked by a mechanic. If the above solution isn't your problem, you can isolate what's drawing the current using this method. You need a multimeter capable of reading AMPS. Remove the ground battery cable and place the multimeter between the battery cable and the battery. Make sure you DON'T run your car like this!! With the car OFF, see how much current is being drawn from the battery. Some current draw is normal, as your cars computer and radio memory functions need power to retain their settings. Start by removing a single fuse and replacing it, each time checking the current on the multimeter. By process of elimination, if you pull the fuse on the circuit that's causing the trouble, the current draw will drop. There's your troubled circuit. Then you'd need a wiring diagram, which you can find on hmaservice.com, and trace down the short circuit.

I don't think it can be done by the consumer. From what I have read, the dealer can easily program the car's computer to automatically lock the doors at a certain speed. There are two speeds that can be seleted for the doors to lock, and you will have to specify to the dealer which speed you prefer. This procedure should be done at no charge, since it only takes them a few minutes. Try negotiating a free re-program next time you take the car in for an oil change a the dealer.

The EPA range estimate for the 2011 Hyundai Elantra is 358.4 mi. in the city, 486.4 mi. on the highway.

No one seems to have a good answer for the LOADING problem. I removed the Batt. cables and the LOADING went away for a couple of days but came back.

I've had it with Hyundai, they just say buy a new radio because they don't know what to do.

I had my check indicator light on and the first time is was a sensor that controlled the amount of fuel going to the engine, it failed and was starving the engine of fuel. I had to have the sensor replaced (expensive)

Second time it was the Oxygen sensor that goes into the flexible exhaust pipe. The pipe had developed a leak and was causing the sensor to go off. I had the pipe replaced and reset the sensor by disconnecting the battery for an hour or two. It seemed to do the trick but the exhaust guy said the sensor is barely holding in there and will eventually fail.

The MIL (malfunction indicator lamp/check engine light) can be set by anything from a loose gas cap to an engine perfomance issue. If the light is steadily illuminated it can be driven but should be checked out sooner than later. If light is flashing do not drive the vehicle.

It may be a loose baffle inside the muffler or a tin heat shield on a exhaust pipe.

Maybe something is burning?

you could have a leak anywhere in your system... the most common places are in the condensor (in front of radiator... looks like a thin radiator under the hood near the front grille), the evaporator, or the valves. take the caps off of your valves and check for a neon-green colored fluid... if there is some under a cap DO NOT TOUCH IT!!!! that is your refrigerant and it will do bad things to your skin. put the cap back on and take it to the local shop... they will have to evacuate the system, replace the valve and re-fill the system. other than that easy fix, if you hit anyting, you are looking at probably replacing your condesor at the least, plus any associated plumbing and hardware. if you hit something, warranty woudl NOT cover it. if it was a valve, and your car is still covered, warranty should cover it, as this is a manufactuer defect.

The 2006 Hyundai Elantra has an inline 4 engine.

I am in the same situation and yet do not know, but I did a first easy call to Hyundai service department, and they were very nice and told me some. I plan on calling them again or even going by their place. You should do the same.

My 2000 elantra (rear power window) has ~6 screws:

1 -- in door latch pocket 1 -- in arm rest pocket under rubber gromet 2 -- in upper forward edge of door panel 2 -- in upper back edge of door panel

it also has ~5 captured plastic snaps along the bottom. these are the typical press-in but have a flat head that is captured in little plastic fork brackets that are glued onto the backside of the door panel.

remove all the screws carefully remove the plastic snaps from the door body(I used a door panel tool, a flat fork like tool) (I damaged one snap and one catpuring bracket also came off) (Dealership suggested door panel snap brackets can disengage from the snaps via sliding, but upon panel removal, I don't see how it is possible, I think snaps are intended as sacrificial items.)

wobble door panel loose until you can access door latch rods on interior door handle. I think there was excess black sealant keeping the door panel well attached to the door frame; It tore the vapor barrier some, no big deal I think... (Maybe the vapor barrier is captured around the latch assembly, not sure)

Once door panel is mostly loose, There are pink plastic clevis's that rotate off the latch rods to free the rods from the interior door handle.

disconnect the electrical up/down window switch (from the arm-rest portion) from the regulator motor...

I face replacing the power window regulator... I understand that the bracket on the lower window edge unbolts to the regulator carraige, then the window removes upwards. (I don't expect to remove the window but to wedge it in place while removing the regulator.... we'll see)

unbolting the regulator/motor assembly from the door frame, it is supposed? to be removed out the bottom?

The lift cable on mine has clearly failed and wrapped around the motor/capstan and is severely kinked... (loose lift cable end is flopping around)

My regulator has two lift cables that enter on the top of the regulator, some regulators have one cable on the top and one cable on the bottom

ANSWER

In regards to the door handle/locking mechanism area. My car is a 1999 I think, but there is a good chance they are the same. I had to slide the door handle assembly inward (towards the car as the door is open) while putting a flathead screwdriver under the inner side to sort of pop it up slightly. Then when I hit it inwards (to slide it) it popped right out (after removing the screw of course) and then I could access the door latch and locking mechanism rods.

On manual window regulator equipped models remove the window crank handle.A shop towel worked up between the handle and door panel will usually dislodge the clip but it can also be removed with a hooked tool # Remove the outside mirror # Detach the door handle trim piece and disconnect the linkage rod.Remove the door pull mounting screw.Unplug the electrical connector from the power window switch # Remove the retaining screws and detach the panel by carefully prying it away from the door

The ground clearance of the 2014 Hyundai Elantra-Coupe is 0 ft. 5.3 in. (5.3 in.).

what year? i have a 2007 and I'm trying to find out the same thing. I know there's a screw hiding under a cap in door handle, then the bottom will pry outeard. Not sure about the top half though

The starter on a 2000 Hyundai Elantra is located along the bottom, left side of the engine. It bolts directly to the engine block and is protected by a shroud.

because your tiburon likes the backward motions.