Jeep Cherokee

Torch d head on2000 jeep cherokee sport

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Try unlocking the vehicle at the front passenger door. This will disable the security system and shou8ld allow you to start the vehicle.

You Might have to spray it with some Liquid wrench or something to help losen it up then keep working around it with a pry tool it should come off. Be careful it is only white metal.

10W30, it can be synthetic or conventional.

Just had this happen to me except mine was a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. All it wound up being was the battery. Once I replaced it, it worked great. Don't worry, I thought the same thing you were. How is the Jeep able to restart if the battery is dead? My mechanic told me it's because it's drawing it's power from the alternator. My alternator was working great but it was the battery that wasn't holding the charge. Hope this is the same with you.

Because if you have the crusie control on and you are going up a steep hill it will do anything it can to keep that speed.

It should be two screws up under the inside cab on the passenger side, below the glove box area with a wiring harness connected to it.

blower motor works ok when it is on heat position, when slider slided back to air condition max or min noting air condition dose not work air blower goes blank please help, what would be the problem, on jeep Cherokee 1987

Yes. The Crank sensor monitors the position and rotational speed of the engine to determine timing for ignition. if it is not functioning you will get no spark.

1997-2001. Grasp the lower corners of the trim panel in the center of the dash that goes around the stereo and the climate controls. Gently pull out, and slightly up.

Unscrew the switch panel. Disconnect the wires from the switches. Remove the switches.

6.5

There are a few screws that hold the door panel as well as plastic push-in type fasteners.

Screws: There is one under the arm rest on the door, one in the top of the arm rest, one in the cover of the door handle (you have to pop out a plastic plug using a pocket knife) and one in the air vent near the front of the door. All will work with a #2 Phillips head screwdriver with about a 4" long shank. Make sure you remove the black plastic bezel around the door handle by pulling the door handle out and gently working the bezel over it.

Plastic push-in fasteners: There are about 4 across the bottom, two up the back side and 2 or three up the front side. One on the front is up high, a bit above the midline of the panel. These push-ins are re-usable and don't need replaced unless they are broken.

Using a wide flat tool like a 2" wide putty knife, slide it between the plastic door panel and the door. (There is a door panel removal tool that can be purchased from any auto parts store for about $12) There are 6 to 8 plastic "plugs" that need to pop out of the door body and are clipped into the plastic door panel. Once you get the bottom of the panel pulled out enough to slide your fingers behind it, slide your hand along and pop each clip out from the door. Make sure you pull on the panel only when you are close to each clip or you will end up breaking all the little push-in clips.

Once you have all the screws out and all the clips popped out, the door panel should lift up easily (straight up - not away from the door). If it does not lift easily, there was a screw or plug that was missed. The panel fits into the bottom edge of the window sill to hold the top of the door panel tight to the glass.

As soon as the panel is loose and lifted from the door, there are wires that go to the power windows and door lock switches. Be careful that you don't yank too hard on these and break your wires. I have used a bungee cord looped over the top of the door frame (through the open window) and hang the door panel from there. Otherwise you need to use a narrow blade flat screwdriver to slip under the retaining clips to unplug the electrical connector. It is a bit difficult, so that's why I hang the panel from the window frame.

The speakers should be very visible and accessible now. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove them. If your speakers are blown, you will see the paper around the perimeter is torn (you can see this from the back side). I found a decent pair of replacement Infinity speakers from Best Buy for about $100. They are a direct bolt-in replacement. I still had to drill four holes per speaker to mount them.

Good Luck! Wally

i don't know, take to a garage or get a new car. why are you posting this question on here. surley it would be easier yo take it to a garage

wow, what a helpful answer, NOT.

There are a few things you can check even if you are not a mechanic circulation and pressure is the key to keeping a cooling system working properly. new thermostat, good, check your radiator cap, make sure the seal is not torn swollen or missing, look under the car and see if you have a leak. a leak can cause overheating quickly. start the car and when the temp shows just above half way the radiator fan should kick in. if the fan does not come on check all your fuses. anything much more than that you will probably need a shop. just thinking tho, i had a Toyota that had a clogged radiator, how i found out was when it got up to the hot mark i put my hand in the center of the radiator and it was much cooler at the bottom than at the top. but keep in mind that is VERY dangerous on that car because of the automatic fan, so if you decide to check that hold the fan with something and be careful.. with some luck you will find it without taking it to a shop.

Replace the ignition coil.

In the Factory Service Manual. You can buy one on-line or some larger Library systems have Factory Service Manuals to check out.

The max tire size without lift is 225/75/R15

As long as the wheel offset is good it should fit. I have 30x9.5R15's on mine and they rub slightly, those 235/70r16 are shorter then mine.

There is no check engine light fuse other than the instrument lights fuse. Check engine light is computer controlled. If it is on, it means the computer has detected a problem with the emissions system. Repair it and they will reset the light.

There is a plug in "black box" under your dash that can be unplugged to totally disable the alarm system. The remote clicker should still work but the factory alarm will not. Nothing else will be affected. You'll have to get a flashlight and look under there but the box in question does have a sticker on it that clearly says "alarm/security" on it.

No, not without at least a 3 inch lift to the suspension. The largest tires you can hope to fit would be 235X75X15 and those would probably rub the fender-well at full steering stop. If this is a daily driver and you just want bigger tires for the "look" then I would suggest some large lugged 235X75X15 tires (assuming you don't have 16" OEM wheels) and then shave the inch or two where it rubs in the front wheel well. You'd be surprised at how "meaty" those larger tires would make your Jeep look. If you're looking for true off-road performance then you should look at a lift for sure.

Many jeeps packages came with extra suspension and clearance and you should, in the future when asking a question like this, provide more info as to year and model....you'll get a much more precise answer from those who've been there and done that.

Disconnect the hoses in and out. Then run a garden hose with low pressure through it. Once the soolant is clear the core is flushed.

Loosen the tensioner (It's the only pulley out of 7 that is not attached to a unit) by using a 15MM wrench, then loosen the tensioner screw on the upper left of the tensioner bracket (15MM as well), until you can remove the old belt, replace w/new belt and tighten screw then center tensioner bolt. Be careful of ADVANCE AUTO PARTS.....They like to give you the wrong belt. A good belt to use is the DRIVE RITE serpentine belt (Part No. 950K6), assuming you have a 4.0Ltr engine. Hope this helps!

If it's automatic, it is most likely a non ABS Chrysler 8.25 axle with 3.55 gears.

for most parts, yes

Before you bleed it, try filling the reservoir. Then press down on the pedal very slowly, VERY SLOWLY all the way to the floor. Hold it there for a few seconds and then let it up very slowly, VERY SLOWLY. Repeat the process a bunch of times. The key is to go slow. With the hood up and the cap off you can sometime see small bubbles coming back into the reservoir. Look through the crack between the hood and the body as you sit in it and pump. Watch your fluid level and refill as needed.